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Discussion starter · #42 ·
Paul - congratulations! That looks great!! Since you did it as a true DIY how long did it take? Cost (if you don't mind me asking)?

Where are you hiding or putting the cables for the iPod?

Also sat nav looks fantastic. What screen is that? Details of install?
 
cost breakdown:

Second hand '07 Bose HU: $150
Nissan parts (wheel switches, spiral cable unit, airbag bolts): $300
Connectors & wires: $20

Total: $470

If I did it right the first time, it would have only taken approximately 3-4 hours to do everything. I had some loose connections in the plug on the back of the spiral cable unit - checking continuity before reassembly would have saved the additional 3 hours of troubleshooting and dissambly/reassembly again...!

The NIS-11 iPOD interface is physically located just in front of the gear shifter, underneath the climate control. I drilled a hole in the center console bin floor for the cable to run through under the consle along side the gear shift back to the unit. So, the iPOD lives in the center console bin, out of sight, and there is enough length in the cable to pick it up whilst still connected and operate it directly if necessary.

The satnav is a custom fitted 7" 800x480 touchscreen GPS system running iGO v8 software - which is fantastic (you get text to speech, lane guidance, 3D buildings, uses Navteq maps etc). The touchscreen and circuit board is from a 7" chinese made Mesada system which has been disassembled, modified, and installed into the nissan cubby, with the rear pocket section removed. It has the 400Mhz samsung CPU, the underlying operating system is actually Windows CE 5.0 (that you never really see or use), so it will run other navigation applications also - I actually have TomTom installed on the system also, but it is nowhere near as feature rich as iGO. The map data is stored on an (inaccessible) SD card, which you can update via USB. It also has a built in bluetooth handsfree function for your phone (I don't use this yet, as I already had a standalone Parrot bluetooth handsfree installed in the car).

For another project:
I run the nav system with a seperate loudspeaker under the dash at the moment, however I am trying to figure out how to interface this to the Bose HU using the audio input and signalling that would normally be used with the factory nav system. I basically need to design and build an audio detection circuit that will supply a 5v pulse to the nav control pin on the Bose M39 connector, when any Nav audio is transmitted. There are mono nav+ nav- input pins on M39 for the line level audio input from the nav system. A little bit of R&D required for this, as I don't quite understand the design behaviour of the Bose system when used with the factory Nav. ie - does the 5v control signal completely mute the audio for the duration of the nav voice guidance message?, or does it lower the audio level by a certain amount? Does the control line need to stay at +5v for the duration of the voice guidance message? if so, the audio detection circuit would have to continually monitor the nav audio circuit and provide a singal for the complete duration of any messages. etc. Will have a go at it sometime soon.

cheers,
Paul
 
Updated wiring diagram for the additional harness required to get this working:

Spiral Cable M23----Bose HU M39
24------------------------22
32------------------------23
31------------------------25

Spiral Cable M23----Bose HU M40
26------------------------8
27------------------------GROUND


M23 connector layout - viewed from back of male harness plug:

34 33 32 31
27 26 25 24
clip

The other connector pinouts are as per page 1 of this thread - thanks Steve

cheers,
Paul
 
Great work Paul!

You seem great with Electronical stuff, maybe we should talk about doing a full LED interior swap since you're in Sydney!!!! :)
:shiftdrive: :shiftdrive: :shiftdrive: :shiftdrive: :shiftdrive: :shiftdrive: :shiftdrive: :shiftdrive: :shiftdrive: :shiftdrive: :shiftdrive: :shiftdrive:
 
Discussion starter · #46 ·
QUOTE (ThreeFiftyZed @ Mar 1 2010, 11:34 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=592650
For another project:
I run the nav system with a seperate loudspeaker under the dash at the moment, however I am trying to figure out how to interface this to the Bose HU using the audio input and signalling that would normally be used with the factory nav system. I basically need to design and build an audio detection circuit that will supply a 5v pulse to the nav control pin on the Bose M39 connector, when any Nav audio is transmitted. There are mono nav+ nav- input pins on M39 for the line level audio input from the nav system. A little bit of R&D required for this, as I don't quite understand the design behaviour of the Bose system when used with the factory Nav. ie - does the 5v control signal completely mute the audio for the duration of the nav voice guidance message?, or does it lower the audio level by a certain amount? Does the control line need to stay at +5v for the duration of the voice guidance message? if so, the audio detection circuit would have to continually monitor the nav audio circuit and provide a singal for the complete duration of any messages. etc. Will have a go at it sometime soon.

cheers,
Paul
Paul - after going through this process I think that the software and hardware of the GPS unit or car pc would need to be compatible with the Bose.

It's something I'm going to try down the track as well after doing a few other things. I'd like to get the Garmin black box and an OBD II reader (ie real-time displays) on a 7" screen intergrated to the oem sat nav controls and Bose headunit. Additionally the design of the screen and interface to look OEM.

Not going to easy but I think a great addition. Keep me in the loop on your progress with the nav sounds.
 
If anyone is interested in doing this conversion, the steering wheel switch assembly is much cheaper from Courtesyparts.com than from my local dealer ($60 US vs $160 odd AUD). If you're thinking about doing it, shoot me a PM and we can split the shipping :)
 
Discussion starter · #48 ·
^ where I sourced mine from. Just remember to get the spiral cable from your local dealer for an 06+ though.

Still working a treat. Actually using it alot more than I thouht I would which is nice.
 
Did the steering wheel control swapover yesterday. There's one step that isn't mentioned in any guide or write up - I'll put up some words and pictures tomorrow.
 
Unfortunately haven't gotten the aftermarket head unit in. I'm going for the latest Eclipse Nav/DVD double DIN which apparently doesn't require any special adapters to work with the steering controls. It has a "learning" function where you push the steering wheel button, it listens to the signal, and then you can assign any function you want to each button.

All I've done so far was install the steering wheel controls and route the signal wires back to near the head unit for the audio installers to use.

All up it took about 3 hours, including a couple of breaks. Many thanks to my mechanic mate that I do Army Reserves with, since I have no tools or real expertise.

I followed this guide: Steering Wheel Removal and Audio Control Install - Nissan 350Z & 370Z Wiki

However there are a few things to note for anyone who wants to do this themselves, since the guide isn't 100% complete and not 100% relevant for us.

First important thing: make sure your wheels and steering wheel is totally straight ahead. The wiki recommends you turn the wheels all the way to the right, but that's going to stuff you up later on. We ended up having to temporarily reconnect the spiral cable and steering wheel and re-aligning the wheels to straight ahead halfway through. The reason for this is the new factory spiral cable you have to buy comes calibrated for straight ahead. To make this easier, there is a line on the front of the steering column that aligns with a line on the spiral cable so you know they're matched.

There is a lot of trim to take off in order to remove the spiral cable. The guide says it's optional to remove the trim on the right hand side of the dash (where the VDC Off button is) but it was mandatory when we did it. To get that piece out, you also have to remove a piece of trim that goes all the way from the bonnet release to the back of the driver's seat. This is held in with a plastic clip only. We also had to remove the bolts holding in the "combination meter" (speedo, tacho etc).

Image

Trim coming off.

Image

Trying to remove the trim.

Image

Having to loosen the meters to get to the top of the spiral cable.

Once the spiral cable is out and free (with the indicator stalks etc), compare it to the new unit you've bought. There is an extra module on the factory one that has to be transferred to the new one. This must be aligned (straight ahead) with the old one so it's similarly aligned with the new one. According to my mate, there is a possibility that the airbags will deploy when you switch the car on if you've stuffed up the alignment.

Image

This is the part that has to be transferred from the old spiral cable to the new spiral cable - 47945-AS500 STEERING ANGLE SENSOR

Image

Sorry for the crappy photo

Image

This one is slightly clearer. The part clips on nicely to the new spiral cable but make sure you don't handle it too much since the inside of it turns and you need it to be in the same place, aligned with the spiral cable.

I did the floppy drive trick, removing the pins from the 4 Pin Berg Connector and lengthening the wires. When connecting the new pins to the old harness (Plug M23) make sure you loosen the little white plug on the top to allow the pins to slide in. We couldn't get them in until we did this. Once you've made sure the pins are all the way through to the front of the plug, pop the white plug on the top back in to lock them into place.

We grounded both the illumination earth and the audio switch signal earth to the same place, on the right hand side near the door, and spliced the parkers-on power for the illumination from the VDC Off switch (3rd wire in).

The switches went on the steering wheel easily, just following the guide. Make sure you route the switch loom in such a way that it doesn't interfere with the backing plate/springs (to allow the horn to spring back up) and that the airbag isn't going to sit on it and compress it. It took us a couple of goes of reassembling the steering wheel to find the best way to route them.

End result:
Image


Next update will be when I get them working with the head unit.
 
Discussion starter · #54 ·
Thanks for the update. I wasn't aware of the Steering Wheel angle sensor at all and haven't seen it mentioned anywhere either.

Congrats on the DIY so far. Looking forward to seeing how you go with an aftermarket unit. It's definately possible.
 
Hi all,

The aftermarket unit went in today. It's an Eclipse AVN726EA. It's stunning, if I may say so :)

The installer had a bit of trouble with the steering wheel controls yesterday, they weren't being recognised at all, and so I went down there today and had a bit of a play myself.

While he was taking care of the reversing camera, I pulled the trim off and had a look. It turns out the pins from the floppy drive cable don't exactly fit into the harness connector that goes into the back of the spiral cable. It was just blind luck that the illumination ones were making contact, since the steering wheel switches had basically fallen out.

My installer had some small pins lying around from a Porsche or Aston Martin install that fit perfectly, so if you're trying to do this at home and all you have are the Berg connector pins, make sure you shove them in good and then tape them in place. Otherwise they will come out eventually and you'll go mad trying to figure out why.

So we replaced the pins and he soldered the wires directly to the steering switch input wires on the head deck. As mentioned previously the head unit "learns" any brand of steering switch and there's no need for an adapter from PAC or anyone else. Once the connections were made, the controls worked like they were made to from the factory!

No pics tonight, it was dark by the time I left so I'll put some up tomorrow.

Cheers,

Fry
 
Very good thread, I m trying to install a new radio device using the OEM steering wheel controls on my 2004 350z.

The problem is my car seams to be different that other 2004 350z because there are few controls (see attachments), and I can't find any informations about it in the 2003-2005 350z workshop manual service.

As you can see, there are 2 butons (Call and Answer/hang up) differs from 2006 (Power & Mode).

I'd like to know if I can use a adapter like this one http://www.incartec.co.uk/assets/files/29-674_Nissan_noConn.pdf to controls my new Pioneer audio device (with the OEM Bose Amp) ?

Thanks for answer.
 

Attachments

Discussion starter · #57 ·
That's the UK spec version of the controls for the OEM Bluetooth functionality.

To connect to an aftermarket headunit I'd recommend a PAC SWI-PS device.

PS: Merry Christmas!!
 
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