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As a heads up, a lot of these numbers sound like duration at lift > .000". What you're really interested in is duration at lift > .050"

Between 0.000 and 0.050 you're just ramping up, after .050 you really start flowin.

Intake and exhaust durations at .050, centerlines, overlap, etc are all what you're lookin for.
 

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As a heads up, a lot of these numbers sound like duration at lift > .000". What you're really interested in is duration at lift > .050"

Between 0.000 and 0.050 you're just ramping up, after .050 you really start flowin.

Intake and exhaust durations at .050, centerlines, overlap, etc are all what you're lookin for.
Most Japanese cam makers advertise a duration that begins at 1mm (.040"). In any case, it's always wise to look at the spec card before making a purchase.

Ronin Z
 

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Bump -

any news at all of what cams are rather nice to go with for FI applications?

turbo wise i'd be using APS's extreme twin turbo kit and maybe max targeted boost levels of 15psi effective boost. something useable for daily driving still and not harsh at idle and not hurting the low end at all. any ideas?
 

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Most Japanese cam makers advertise a duration that begins at 1mm (.040"). In any case, it's always wise to look at the spec card before making a purchase.

Ronin Z
Do you know of any cam that would have problems at idle? By this I mean rough or a miss fire.
 

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for all the people asking for street cams-

from what i ahve read. The Nismo are the best street cams. of course i will inform everybody this weekend how these cams go( as far as lumpyness at idle or backfire is concerning everybody)....
the instalation is some what easier than i thought it would be( of course im not completely done yet) you just have to take ur time and not rush it. i will be posting up my DIY this weekend with lots of pictures for everybody not wanting to spend another $1000 to install. But i must recomend a GREAT set of tools, Strong people. and a bunch of plastic baggies!!


But i have a question for Ronin- so ur saying or i think it was you. that if i were to get the UTEC, i can tune infavor of my cams?
 

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i will be posting up my DIY this weekend with lots of pictures for everybody not wanting to spend another $1000 to install. But i must recomend a GREAT set of tools, Strong people. and a bunch of plastic baggies!!
Hi! Where did you post your pictures of your DIY?
My opinion is that with FI you can run 600hp with stock cams no problemo. It's easy and cheaper to squirt a bit more boost to get more air to the cilinders.
 

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The Nismo's seem like a good street cam based on the review because they say that it keeps the torque down low and opens it up at the top. Basically a well mannered car with more top end.

Keep in mind though, after reading the whole review and looking at the numbers, they have headers, intake and cams and the amount of extra power they make is pitiful for the $3000+ in those three mods alone (with install).

While I was at it, i found this

nissanperformancemag.com

"Q: I've heard a lot about how cams work, but I'm still a little confused. Can you explain how aftermarket cams can add power to my ride?

A: The camshafts control how long and how much your valves are open. There are three important factors of the cam that affect their performance: duration, or the number of degrees the valve is held open by the cam; lift, the height the valve is lifted on the valve seat; and overlap, the period when both the intake and exhaust valves are open at the same time. At high rpm, there is less time to fill the cylinder. A cam with greater duration keeps the valves open for increased degrees of crank rotation allowing the cylinder more time to fill. The more lift a cam has, the more flow that passes through the higher lifted valve. For all out crazy engine setups, you want a long duration and as much lift as possible. However, stock and mild race cars shouldn't use such a wild cam. When the duration is increased, the exhaust valve opens earlier and you may experience blowdown, which is gasses expanding during the power stroke that are blown back down the exhaust pipe. Blowdown creates a power loss during the power stroke because it quickly rids the engine of the pressure it needs to create power. Increasing overlap increases the time between the opening and closing of the cams points. Overlap can cause reversion at low rpm, which is exhaust gas pushed back up the intake port. Reversion dilutes the intake charge preventing the cylinders from completely filling, and decreases the cylinder pressure at low speeds causing low speed misfire. This low speed misfire causes lots of hydrocarbon pollution which is why stock cams have very little overlap (do you want to chew your air?). Full racing cams usually have around 305 degrees of duration and 0.5" of lift, which produces raging top end power at the expense of low end power, but idle poorly and will blow emissions tests off the charts! A good aftermarket cam pulls around 4000-7500 rpms with a faint lopey sound at idle and will have about 265 degrees of duration, 0.42" lift, and 30 degrees of overlap. This type of cam will work well with all the bolt-ons and can be used in a daily driver. A stock cam has about 240 degrees of duration, 0.39" lift, and 15 degrees of overlap. The stock cams work well between 700-6500 rpm and idle very smoothly. One caveat: if you aren't too familiar with your engine bay, have a professional install your cams. You can easily blow an engine if you don't take all the necessary precautions during installation. "



Chris
This helped immensely.
 

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I'm having a **** of a time picking cams. The car is a daily, I want the idle to be relatively smooth. I want as much out of it as possible within reason.

Motor has Injen Cai, Motordyne MREV2, 5/16th spacer, ARTs, XYZ with resonator, headers, Agency Power Ti cat back, UPREV tune.

Build consists of 88mm Brian Crower crank BC Econo rods, JE 96.5mm 11.0.1 pistons +1mm Manley valves.

I have not bought the cams or springs yet I need help deciding on them.

I posted this in the N/A engine thread and continued to search and found this thread. The car is an 06 REVUP.
 
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