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I should have these Nismo R type installed shortly. I'll let you know how they work out.
Well? Did you do it yet? Inquiring minds want to know!

If it didn't cost so much to install or require so much labor, I wouldn't mind getting Nismo cams.

Here I go again, spending money I don't have. :ahhh:
 

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Well? Did you do it yet? Inquiring minds want to know!

If it didn't cost so much to install or require so much labor, I wouldn't mind getting Nismo cams.

Here I go again, spending money I don't have. :ahhh:


no :( I actually bought another **** car. lol.. so Z got back burner action.

Good news:

I finally got my ARC strut tower bar. So, this is basically the ticket into the shop. :)

Installing:
Nismo 262 Camshafts
Nismo J (Setrab) Oil Cooler
Nismo Power Steering Cooler
ARC Strut Tower Bar
ARC Water Pump Pulley (POMP!)

and hopefully a super secret gear set (final drive) coming soon. Then clutch/fw and viola! I'm done! :biggrin:

As for the Cams; I can do a write up w/ pics during install. Don't know HOW detailed.. But some details. :)

Smooth, if you like (hide the wifey) I can see if I can get another set of cams dirt cheap. LMK.
 

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just a quick question: the intake duration cam for the nismo r-tune is 262 although what is the exhaust cam duration??

and for the more experienced, when the duration of the intake cam is higher than the exhaust cam this spreads the power over the rpm range right?? but what effect dose the lift have, what is the desired lift of the cam to see more power through the rpm's??

thanks, all these are cos im deciding what cams to go with and i think i will get the tomei 264 intake and 256 exhaust! I want to keep the stock rev limiter and see more power through the rpm, and want something a little more aggressive than the r-tunes so I think these will be good.

Thanks
 

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Ok. So how do I use this new wealth of knowledge to choose between cam manufactureres? Here's what I found from web shopping:
  • JWT Cams: 260 DEG DUR. / .428"(10.9MM) LIFT, INT. ADVANCED 2 DEGREES.
  • Nismo Cams: 262 Deg Dur. / .426" Lift, Cold Lash - .010" to .013" (WTF is "Cold Lash"?)
  • Tomei Cams (1): 256 duration with 10.2 mm lift
  • Tomei Cams (2): 264 duration with 10.22 mm lift
  • Tomei Cams (3): 268 duration with 10.5 mm lift
So we've got everthing from 256 to 268 duration and 10.2 mm to 10.9 mm of lift, with Nismo listing the "cold lash" -- whatever that means. There must be a reason for having different setups. If I don't care about gas milage and am simply looking for the best over-all power increase, which would you recommend? I'm assuming there's plusses and minuses for all.
bump for a good list....

Yes, I'm still researching and wondering if it's worth it.

Based on the #'s posted by Hypersprite on page 2, I can only assume that some kind of engine management and a good tuner would tweak out more power than those posted.
 
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Cold lash is the space you leave on top of the lifter when adjusting the the valves cold. Aluminum engines expand if you dont account for the expansion there is extra space when the engine heats up and will give the shims room enough to pop out. There should be factory specs on cold lash.
 

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Based on the #'s posted by Hypersprite on page 2, I can only assume that some kind of engine management and a good tuner would tweak out more power than those posted.

Correct. SCC did nothing in the tuning dept. They just dropped them in and left the ECU alone.

You will always get more power for setting up and tuning a camshaft(s).
 

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Correct. SCC did nothing in the tuning dept. They just dropped them in and left the ECU alone.

You will always get more power for setting up and tuning a camshaft(s).
That's downright lazy on SCC's part. WTH? Don't they have access to dynos and tuners?
 

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That's downright lazy on SCC's part. WTH? Don't they have access to dynos and tuners?
I don't think laziness has anything to do with it. The cars tested sound like press cars delivered by Nissan for magazine reviews. So SCC was probably not allowed to go plugging in piggyback boxes (if any were even available at the time of writing) and tweak them up. It also alludes to the poor gas quality in CA causing lower number than you would get if you lived someplace with real fuel. The sad thing is, you would think Nissan would want to get the most out of these test cars they could.

Chris
 

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I don't think laziness has anything to do with it. The cars tested sound like press cars delivered by Nissan for magazine reviews. So SCC was probably not allowed to go plugging in piggyback boxes (if any were even available at the time of writing) and tweak them up. It also alludes to the poor gas quality in CA causing lower number than you would get if you lived someplace with real fuel. The sad thing is, you would think Nissan would want to get the most out of these test cars they could.

Chris
I see your point. It makes sense from that standpoint.
 

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what would you guys say would be the best cam for FI? If Im understanding this correctly I would say that the nismo 262 or the Tomei 256 would be more suitable for FI. right? :helpsmilie:
 

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what would you guys say would be the best cam for FI? If Im understanding this correctly I would say that the nismo 262 or the Tomei 256 would be more suitable for FI. right? :helpsmilie:

This is a difficult answer to generalize. It depends on the size of the turbo and the given application.

Valve overlap is a concern: an excerpt: (take it with a grain of salt but understand the problems faced)

" In low boost applications (under 15 psi or so), opening the valve closer to TDC and maybe keeping the exhaust valve open a little after TDC is a compromise for better throttle response before the boost comes on. As you increase boost, you will need to delay the opening of the intake valve to avoid reversion. You want the intake valve to open as soon as possible, in an ideal situation, the intake valve should open when the pressure in the cylinder is equal to boost pressure. This can cause a little confusion with cam overlap. If the exhaust valve closes before the intake opens, the overlap will be considered negative. "


"If there is more pressure in the intake than in the exhaust, a camshaft suited for superchargers or nitrous will usually works well. When the exhaust backpressure is lower than the intake, reversion is not a problem, actually just the opposite is a problem. More pressure in the intake can blow fresh intake charge right out the exhaust valve. This can be a serious problem with a turbo motor since the charge will burn in the exhaust raising temperatures of the exhaust valves and turbo."


"If the exhaust back pressure is lower than the intake, the intake pressure makes more force on the intake stroke to help push the piston down. At the same time another piston is on it's exhaust stroke. So the intake pressure is more than canceling out the exhaust pressure."


Read as much as you can about the given topic before you form an opinion!
 

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For a setup only N/A…hardcore ( For Street but...) According to you which would be the best camwood… For the idle its does not disturb me. Let us say that I want to have more for my money.


I have to think has tomei (3) but I do not know how much it costs
Tomei Cams (3): 268 duration with 10.5 mm lift


My budget is 1000$

Would there be whatever one which would have the spec: Brian Crowerstage 2 or of JWT S-7, S-1, S-2 and has C-2 camwood.
 
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