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CF is great and all but with the application most of us tend to lean towards, that being not a full race application, it seems a waste of money when fiberglass is not that much heavier and much easier to repair. I was thinking about the updated style hood in fiberglass along with the fenders. As long as i kept my nose out from under other vehicles i think the fiberglass would do fine. Maybe savings of 15lbs?
 

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Ha! I'd love to take out the whole AC unit, lines, condenser, etc. I rarely use it. Only thing it's good for is to take the condensation off the windshield.
 

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I heard that 100 lb deduction only takes off like 0.10 secs off your track time. How much truth is there to that?
It's somewhat accurate. But bear in mind that on a drag strip a 1/10 of a second is an eternity. A car that is a tenth of a second faster will cross the finish line roughly a car length ahead of you. 2-3 cars is considered a pretty severe beating and 5+ cars isn't even considered a contest.

On a road course, a 100lb weight difference can be far more significant. Depending on what the minimum weight limit allowed by the class is.

-Ronin Z
 

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Ha! I'd love to take out the whole AC unit, lines, condenser, etc. I rarely use it. Only thing it's good for is to take the condensation off the windshield.
If you leave the blower in, can't you still do that?
 

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On a road course, a 100lb weight difference can be far more significant. Depending on what the minimum weight limit allowed by the class is.

-Ronin Z
Especially on corners and exit speeds, that kind of weight difference will leave the big boys and their toys scratching their heads. Sometimes it's not about power, but how you use the weight to your advantage. That and good brakes.
 

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Ok, thanks for the clarification Ronin Z and SmoothZ.

I do know that 0.10 is a pretty decent time upgrade on drag, but I'm really glad you guys clarified about road courses and cornering. Because of my brother, I've spent most of my years around drag racing, although I've always prefered road racing. So I'm new to the road racing scene and wasn't sure about the significance of weight reductions and such. I'm learning though. :)
 

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Ok, thanks for the clarification Ronin Z and SmoothZ.

I do know that 0.10 is a pretty decent time upgrade on drag, but I'm really glad you guys clarified about road courses and cornering. Because of my brother, I've spent most of my years around drag racing, although I've always prefered road racing. So I'm new to the road racing scene and wasn't sure about the significance of weight reductions and such. I'm learning though. :)
To give you a real world example of how weight matters in competitive road racing, we can look back at the 1971-1972 season of the SCCA 2.5 Challenge Trans-Am race series. That series ran max tire width of 7 inches and handicapped engine displacement and design with weight. So for a SOHC engine, the car had to weigh 1.1 lbs for every CC (cubic centimeter) of displacement. So BRE chose to campaign two Datsun 510's fitted with a 1.6 and 1.8 liter engines. The cars tipped the scales at 1,760 and 1,980 lbs respectively. Even though class rules would have allowed them to use an engine up to 2.5 liters, they didn't want to incur the extra weight penalty. So despite running against a field of 2+ liter rivals (namely BMW and Alfa Romeo) the underpowered Datsuns dominated.

-RZ
 

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Man feels like I've been away from this thread for an eternity. We got stuck working on a Asuka Wide body Z, now were working on a new companies RX-7 shop car who plans on running 315's in the front.

Okay, so as far as production parts, were looking at Fiberglass doors (Race/Track applications) the potential to use them as oem replacements for regular use will be available, but we don't advise it for street use. Were looking at about 10lbs give or take a pound or two in fiberglass, carbon fiber doors will be made to order but will be under 10lbs. with a target weight at 8lbs per door.

This might be a stretch, but has anyone thought of removing the charcoal box? I know a lot of honda guys who remove them, but have heard at least in our cars, it plays an important role, one which I'm somewhat familiar with, but don't fully understand. I know it would be minimal compared to removing the AC, but it should be about 8-10lbs.

As far as hoods are concerned, you don't save much weight unless it was designed with weight savings in mind. For some guys I know, they run them because of the fact they need vents to extract some heat from FI setups. Fiberglass ones can weigh just as much or more then the OEM, I only know of a few hoods and companies that will get you a hood that is at least half the oem weight, were talking one finger to pick up the hood.

Edit: I forgot, we just got ourselves a project 1971 240z rust free! Donated to us by one of my car collector buddies who had to many cars to work on. Its completely stripped down right now. Were gonna go for the lightest possible 240z we can get out of her while running an RB26DETT, we got hooked up with the engine so thats what we decided for the power plant. Were gonna be making the Entire front end, doors, and hatch in Carbon fiber to replace all the metal pieces existing on the car, basically everything that can come off the car. Then we will be welding up a fairly complicated roll cage with bracing for the power the engines going to make so we don't twist the chassis or frame.
 

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This^^
 

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Edit: I forgot, we just got ourselves a project 1971 240z rust free! Donated to us by one of my car collector buddies who had to many cars to work on. Its completely stripped down right now. Were gonna go for the lightest possible 240z we can get out of her while running an RB26DETT, we got hooked up with the engine so thats what we decided for the power plant. Were gonna be making the Entire front end, doors, and hatch in Carbon fiber to replace all the metal pieces existing on the car, basically everything that can come off the car. Then we will be welding up a fairly complicated roll cage with bracing for the power the engines going to make so we don't twist the chassis or frame.
Dude, keep us posted or start a thread with pics. I just picked up a 260Z that I'm slowly stripping out and trying to figure out how to customize it. Still thinking of putting in a VG30DETT into the engine bay....
 

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Lol^ I'll try to snap some pictures sometime soon and start up a build thread. We have been going back and fourth on the RB engine, or a V6/V8 possibility. The thing is were getting a killer deal on the RB because we know the guy, the only thing is we need to decide if we want the headache of going AWD or simply keeping it RWD. Were going to be going for a Retro Modern look as far as the exterior and interior are concerned, we want to build an interior with a waterfall console aimed at the driver similar to whats found in the Supra and RX-7.

Good luck on your build as well man! We'll probably start on it at the end of this month, we are kinda backed up on projects. We will probably have some univeral pieces between the 240-280z's that we'll make so i'll keep you posted.
 

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...well that sounds like a project...sooo...if I'm out of medical school by the time you finish, can I buy it?? ...I'm requesting AWD please : )
 

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Lol only if we decide to sell it. Were hoping to start it end of August now as soon as we finish up the projects we do have.

Also, started looking into the possibility to make a Carbon Fiber Roll cage. I've only seen it made for the Oakley Designs Porsche. I've also seen the roll bar for a smart car made of CF. The cage probably won't be NASA or track legal since it will have to be bolted into the car. I'll have to do more research, but this might be able to save a ton of weight if we opted for a CF roll cage. Lots of testing will have to be done for something like this so I don't think it will be done anytime soon.

So still haven't heard from anyone about the Charcoal box in the back next to the exhaust. Has anyone in the Z removed it, and is it safe to do so? Like I said, I hear the honda guys do it all the time.
 

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Why don't you just wrap it? A cf cage obviously wouldn't do anything to helt protect you, maybe just make a sharp object to impale you in an accident...
 

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Why don't you just wrap it? A cf cage obviously wouldn't do anything to helt protect you, maybe just make a sharp object to impale you in an accident...

Its not quite the same type of cf you'd typically find in typical auto applications. Its not the fancy weave pattern, its actually a Axis winding with individual strands of cf so its still somewhat woven, but woeven into tubes with a core material. The structural properties will definitely be much stronger then most cage tubing used. We have been talking to a mast maker that makes masts for the transpac sailboats. He's actually more excited to try something like this then we are. But we'll see what happens. were looking for more of a brace behind the seats like a roll bar, not a full cage, but just something that will keep the structural integrity of a car in case it were to flip. Cost is definitely going to be high to make something like this, but its more for experimentation. We seem to have been doing a lot of experimenting like this recently. **** were even making plates of CF with a special core material thats non metallic bullet proof.

Also anyone in Socal, we'll be at the RPM show in Irvine, CA if you wanna check us out or come talk to us.
 

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Well it's exceptionally strong for things like airplanes and space shuttles, but exceptionally weak in high impact situations...like a car crash... Maybe a good show piece but no racing organization will approve it...
 

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Ok, F1 cars run carbon chassis so it's possible. Take the following with a grain of salt, I'm not a composite's engineer. No material's magic, carbon fibers (regardless of type) are strong along the axis of the carbon. IE a sheet of carbon won't deform along the edges, and won't bend but most likely they won't take as much load pushing hard into a plate 90* to the fiber's axis. Axial wound could be good stuff, and properly designed might actually make a good cage.

Some of my concerns: Maintenance is going to be far more important. Steel tube cages will show obvious bending and cracking if they're damaged, carbon can suddenly let go with no warning, so inspection is way more important. Design is significantly tougher, metals have some great properties that make them easy to design with. Carbon layup schedules become hypercritical when designing structural stuff, along with that comes expensive software packages. Last for today, with a normal cage you can build to the series' spec and that's good. With CF as structural members, you're going to need a PE with experience to check the design. If you don't have that, I doubt you're getting on track with it outside of track days. If that's the case please don't do it, playing fast and loose with people's safety isn't cool. If you're looking to add some stiffness take a sheet of normal carbon fiber or aramid, come up with a solid mounting scheme and run it from rear strut to rear strut and attach, run down to the floor, then test, it might be a decent amount better.

~Pat
 

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Wanted to ask if you had a chance to weigh the Asuka, Mastergrade, and Seibon hatches yet? Wondering what the difference is among them.
 
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