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Discussion Starter #1
If anyone is interested, I can post a pic of the install job I did for my v1 radar detector. Instead of stuffing wires into the overhead area and back down to the driver side fuse box area, I spliced into the power right at the power plug in the back of the rear view mirror.

I pulled loose the modular plug. It's got a thumb release that's there, but hard to see. Then used a T15 (TORX DRIVER) to unscrew the screw in the rear view mirror.

Remove the mirror, carefully, because there's a little plastic shim thingy that is above it so just sort of wiggle it down a little and the whole thing comes off easily.

Use an exacto type knife to slice open a 1 1/2 inch section of the black cover that bundles all the power wires together.

Underneath, there are 3 wires. The black is ground. The orange and black is always 12+ (don't use this one). The red and black is only powered with the ignition key in the on position. Use this pair, red and black wire for + and black wire for gnd.

I used an exacto type razor blade knife and made a circle around a section of the + wire, then another circle about an inch lower. Then I just made a perpendicular slice between the two circles; just a hair deep to get through the insulation. and viola ! The insulation is removed without cutting the wires.

Afterwards I used an extension cord (AC) and put a soldering iron in the floor area of the passenger foot area, so I could reach the exposed wires and solder the wires from a 7 inch section of the modular phone jack style, V1 power connector to the exposed copper wire I stripped on the rear view mirror plug.

On the long, flat, black, 4 wire power connector that V1 provides, the two middle wires are for power, the two outer wires are not used. BE CAREFUL, of the two middle wires the green one is + and the red one is GND. If you screw up, as I did, and get it wrong, you will not destroy your V1. The V1 has polarity input protection diodes, it has to, cause I hooked up the polarity incorrectly the first time and it did not smoke ! Not a listed common sense feature, but it is there - THANK YOU MR VALENTINE ! Use a voltmeter to make sure you don't have to test this feature, as I did.

The worked out GREAT !!!!. The very short power wire is clean, neat and looks very professional. Because I soldered the connections, I have no worries about loose, crappy connections due to bumps, etc.

It's clean and looks great. You could really do this with any radar detector. If you guys want a pic , just let me know...

Craig
 

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Great information Craig, thanks! Sounds like a great way to hook up a V1 once I finally get mine. Sounds like you really did your homework there. This information will be great for anyone attempting to do this. Pics would be appreciated :biggrin:
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I bought a V1 mirror mount from Mike after hearing about it here. Maybe the 2005 changed the angle of the mirror stalk or something but it points up way too high. I have the mirror positioned properly so I can see. I think the bracket angle near the bottom should be increased. I contacted Mike via email a moment ago to see if will take care of this for me. Will let you know how it works out. They go for $30.
Thanks,
Craig
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Here's the pic Mike sent me of his mirror mount attached to 350z. Notice the angle of the mirror stalk is paralell to the ground. If I move the mirror stalk paralell to the ground like in this pic, I cannot see behind me.
 

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[/quote]

Bend the metal bracket straighter to the angle that best works. The reason I use the angle supplied is it gets the V1 higher up so you have more vision out the windshield. To adjust the angle, leave metal bracket bolted to the mount and bend the bracket in a vice. If you don't want to do the just make me a sketch of the angle you want and I will exchange the metal bracket.
Mike Peronek
 

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Discussion Starter #12
OK – guess I will buy a bench vise and give it a go. Just wish you would’ve told me about this first.

Thanks
 

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Did you buy yours straight from the website (www.valentine1.com)?? I want one,, but I'd like to see if I can get it for less than $400. And does anyone know what the little "Concealed Display" is for?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
[/quote]


Yeah, from the website, unless you can find one on ebay. They are fantastic, I love being able to tell the direction of the radar/laser. This has already come in handy on three occasions now, where the cop was coming up from the rear, entering the highway. I was able to pick him up, and knew he was approaching, slow down, and they almost act suprised you are aware of them.

I you look at his website closely, you will see that the mini-display unit allows you to run the main detector in 'lights out' mode. The main dectector body won't light or flash when connected to the 'mini-display unit. All detections are routed to the mini display unit. This way you can mount the main body somewhere else and be discrete if you live somewhere wher dectectors are illegal.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
[/quote]

Bend the metal bracket straighter to the angle that best works. The reason I use the angle supplied is it gets the V1 higher up so you have more vision out the windshield. To adjust the angle, leave metal bracket bolted to the mount and bend the bracket in a vice. If you don't want to do the just make me a sketch of the angle you want and I will exchange the metal bracket.
Mike Peronek
<div align="right">[snapback]85124[/snapback]
[/quote]

OK, I used a bench vise to bend the metal bracket and after a couple of test fits, it looks to be mounting correctly. Now I just need to disassemble it completely and put a coat of flat black paint on the grey plastic body, and the shiny metal parts. I will post a pic when i am done with it.
Thanks,
Craig
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Although the mirror where I am tapping power for the detector is fused somewhere,
at some 15amp fuse, I guess, I wanted to add local fuse protection at the V1 without
having to use the fuse and holder method.

I bought an RJ11 phone coupler and 2 inch piece of pre-crimped phone cord along with
a 'resettable fuse' from http://www.allelectronics.com/. These devices will work
at around .65amp. When the current hits 1.3 amp, it opens. When allowed to cool off,
they reset, or close again. Viola ! No need to replace a fuse, ever.

After breaking the power wire inside the coupler and installing this device, I
shrouded the coupler and wire in heat shrink tubing, heated over the gas stove in
the kitchen to changed the color to a more suitable black.

PS - I decided to not use that bracket I bought and stick with the V1 windshield mount
for two reasons, didn't like the look/color, thought it was kind of heavy to hang
all of that off of the mirror. I did finally get the angle bent right after a few trys on the bench vise though.


See pics.. Craig
 

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