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Originally posted by HyperSprite@Sep 27 2004, 03:41 PM
Is a one injector system safe with the restrictive plenum?
Also is it possible to shut the system down before the rev limiter?
How does the WOT switch work on a Z?

I *strongly* recommend the Nitrous Express wet kit. ZEX is awful, in my experience.

The Nitrous Express kit will include a fuel solenoid. You tap into your existing fuel feed line, no extra injector needed.

To shut down the nitrous system before redline, you need what's called a "window switch". This gives you what I like to call a "window of oppurtunity" to spray. You can set an if switch to work between a starting and ending rpm. It will not spray before your starting rpm, and will stop spraying at your ending rpm...depending on where you set it. Generally, you want to start spraying about 3500 rpm,...and shut it down about 2-300 rpm before the rev limiter.

Since the 350Z is drive by wire, you need to get a TPS activation switch. Once the switch sees over a certain voltage (generally above 4.6V), then it will activate the nitrous. This switch is available through Nitrous Express.

I will be running a progressive 200 shot on my 350Z, if you want details I'd be happy to share them.
 

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Here is some details. If you spray a 100 shot, with no progressive control at 3500 rpms, the rods will have the SAME LOAD on them if you spray a 200 shot at 7000 rpm. Here is a trick progressive setup that is great for the VQ35DE:

3500 rpm - 100 shot

4700 rpm - 135 shot

5900 rpm - 170 shot

7000 rpm - 200 shot

With a 170 shot at 5900 rpm, the VQ35DE rods will be living on the edge.

As long as you have the proper fuel setup, running this progressive setup will be fine. Nitrous also likes a BIG cam. I will be using the Tomei 268X10.5MM cams and should have a great top end.

I'll post pics when I complete the setup.
 

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Originally posted by DiRN@Oct 7 2004, 08:23 AM
Thanks for the info Niceguy.  Just keep in mind that without an ECU reflash, you'll have no throttle at 7k

Ofcourse, that's why I plan on the Technosquare reflash to obtain the 7100 rpm rev limit. I'll be shutting the gas down at 7,000 though.
 

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Not killing the throttle, just killing the nitrous. I'm not totally sure, but I'm willing to bet the 350Z has a fuel cut at the rev limiter. I know my SR20DET has spark cut, but the newer Nissans seem to have fuel cut.

If you hit the rev limiter, ECU cuts fuel, but the nitrous keeps spraying, you will blow the engine.

To combat this problem, you install a window switch that automatically cuts power to the nitrous and fuel solenoids, and doesn't allow them to spray past a set point, which in my case would be 7,000 rpm. You *could* in theory set the window switch at 7,100 rpm,...but just to be safe I'll set to 7,000.
 

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speaking from experience...i use a 150 shot on my camaro...and it makes awesome power.

for the amount that i actually use the nitrous...its more than morth the hassle of filling bottles.

i paid 1/6 for my setup, than the blower and turbo guys do...and im making around the same power

nitrous express makes some quality stuff
 

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My previous drag car was a '98 A4 Z28. I agree how the LS-1 loves the gas. All motor and gas got me in the high 9 second club, spending a lot less than all the other guys. Nice to see another LS-1 owner.

*thumbsup*
 

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some helpfull tips with nitrous. i have the nx kit in my car and its a great kit. the problem with the z isn't the compression but the ignition timing advance. the 75 shot isn't impressive but is the safest. jet the kit 1 jet size bigger on the fuel side and go 1 step colder on the sparkplugs.you end up with a 12.8-13/1 a/f ratio
 

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nice guy. how are you going to run a 200 shot on the stock timing. to my knowledge nobody makes an ignition setup that retards timing in relation to boost pressure for the z. with stock timing even with the correct a/f you are going to have so much cumbustion(not detonation) pressure that the floating design cylinder walls will move and your going to lose the head gasket
 

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I WOULD DEFINITLEY GO WITH WET SYSTEM DRY GETS PRETTY INVOLVED. I WILL NOT BE LONG WINDED ON THIS SUBJECT BUT REAL QUICK TAKE PRECATIONS GET COLDER PLUGS IRIDIUM BY NGK 2 HEAT RANGES COLDER SHOULD BE FINE IF YOU ARE RUNNING 75 DONT WORRY ABOUT TIMING ANY MORE THAN THAT RETARD THE TIMING WITH TIMING CONTROLLER THERE IS ONE ON THE NET I AM RESEARCHING RIGHT NOW I WILL KEEP EVERYONE POSTED CHANGING THE BASE TIMING WITH NISSAN CONSULT DOES NOT WORK SO SCRATCH THAT IDEA YOU NEED TPS SWITCH AND WINDOW SWITCH JUST MAKE SURE YOU CHECK THE AIR FUEL RATIO AND STAY 11.5 TO 12.5 YOU WILL LEAN OUT IF RATIO IS TO HIGH RECOMMEND AFR CONTROLLER THAT CAN SHUT NOS OFF IF AFR IS NOT MET ALSO IT WOULD BE NICE TO HAVE A PROGRESSIVE CONTROLLER TO RAMP IN THE NOS IT IS EASIER ON THE MOTOR HAVE FUN AND MY RECOMENDATION WOULD BE NITROUS EXPRESS JUST REMEMBER A VQ IS A TOUGH ENGINE BUT DETONATION IS EVEN TOUGHER DOESNT MATTER WHAT YOU HAVE TURBO NOS OR SUPERCHARGED IT IS DEADLY SO WATCH AFR COLDER PLUGS AND HIGH OCTANE GAS AND YOUR SET LET US KNOW WHAT YOU END UP GETTING
 

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sorry for the caps whoops my bad anyways there is ignition timing retard for the new generation z it is by J&S Engineering im still doing research on that keep everyone posted
as far as 200 shot I dont think so maybe in hollywood reason being is the stock ecu is not set up for outside its vaule settings to that extreme
it will only maintain with in its parameters anything beyond theat the computer goes into a default setting thats why bolt on turbos come with piggy-backs to control the timing and fuel management system the detonation on a 125 would be real killer but you do not know until it is two late the knock sensor will not pull the timing out fast enough and as I mention before the base timing change does not correct this situation
running 100 should be ok if you use colder plugs only iridium do not use the factory laser platinium nos and platinium do not mix like oil and water if you want to use more nos check out on getting timing retard controller back timing out to maintain cooler cycl. temp
 
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