ok, I have been wondering something. I know staying NA is dependable, but if I went FI, how would it affect the reliability/ longevity of the car. I drive from coast to coast some and not sure how going FI will effect or react on the car with long drives. I want dependable HP, but I want the car to last also. Which route would you guys suggest?
Thinking of going FI
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You could do more than that IMO.
I'd say 500rwhp reliably.
Here's what you need...
APS Twin Turbocharger Kit (it includes an oil pan and shielded crank angle sensor wire, so no worries there)
Pistons and rods (you're choice, IMO, Arias and Pauter are the way to go, they are cheap and can hold well over 1000whp)
ARP head and main studs (stockers don't last over 400rwhp)
Twin-plate clutch and flywheel (ATS, get the carbon coating on the flywheel too for it to withstand 50 more HP (it already can hold over 700rwhp though) for $50 more)
5AT 3.27 rear end differential and Quaife LSD
NGK Iridium spark plugs
Gauges (I recommend only a boost, EGT/wideband/a/f ratio, and oil temp.)
Ceramic coat the pistons (Arias offers this as an option from the factory) and rods.
JetHot coat the exhaust manifold, the turbocharger, the test pipes and even the exhaust all the way to the muffler)
Non-resonated test pipes
Good-flowing exhaust (you may want to get a custom HKS exhaust made, just get a carbon Ti muffler and get the muffler shop (preferably the one you are getting to do your turbo kit to do it so they know what it's for) to mandrel bend some 3.5" tubing and run it from the test pipes to the muffler; you can do a double setup of that if you want also)
grounding kit
Unorthodox Racing crankshaft pulley
Oh and this if CJ-Motorsports decides to make it:
new motor mounts, the stockers will wear and start to shift ever so slightly and the APS tubing will hit the steering shaft. Definitely a MUST for keeping the car a long time.
I'd say 500rwhp reliably.
Here's what you need...
APS Twin Turbocharger Kit (it includes an oil pan and shielded crank angle sensor wire, so no worries there)
Pistons and rods (you're choice, IMO, Arias and Pauter are the way to go, they are cheap and can hold well over 1000whp)
ARP head and main studs (stockers don't last over 400rwhp)
Twin-plate clutch and flywheel (ATS, get the carbon coating on the flywheel too for it to withstand 50 more HP (it already can hold over 700rwhp though) for $50 more)
5AT 3.27 rear end differential and Quaife LSD
NGK Iridium spark plugs
Gauges (I recommend only a boost, EGT/wideband/a/f ratio, and oil temp.)
Ceramic coat the pistons (Arias offers this as an option from the factory) and rods.
JetHot coat the exhaust manifold, the turbocharger, the test pipes and even the exhaust all the way to the muffler)
Non-resonated test pipes
Good-flowing exhaust (you may want to get a custom HKS exhaust made, just get a carbon Ti muffler and get the muffler shop (preferably the one you are getting to do your turbo kit to do it so they know what it's for) to mandrel bend some 3.5" tubing and run it from the test pipes to the muffler; you can do a double setup of that if you want also)
grounding kit
Unorthodox Racing crankshaft pulley
Oh and this if CJ-Motorsports decides to make it:
new motor mounts, the stockers will wear and start to shift ever so slightly and the APS tubing will hit the steering shaft. Definitely a MUST for keeping the car a long time.
Joined
·
1,799 Posts
Oh and this if CJ-Motorsports decides to make it:
new motor mounts, the stockers will wear and start to shift ever so slightly and the APS tubing will hit the steering shaft. Definitely a MUST for keeping the car a long time
Actually this is speculation and you are starting a NEW rumor with no factual basis.This type of theorizing has becom the cause of many "I Got the majic solution threads"
I you want reliable HP and do not abuse your car then give me a call and we can discuss some options for you,right now we are running a special on APS TT kits installed for $8900. This kit is the most reliable and complete.All you basically need to add is a boost guage and AF if you see fit. Do not believe EVERYTHING you read on the internet, as there are alot of people with a little information. This behavior causes the mass hysteria we tend to see in the Z community,like when someone poped their engine on an ATI procharger,and one guy went out and said he found the solution in the J&S safe guard. There was a big rush of those units sold and as to date everyone that I have had experience with has caused problems on the Z and is a steamy pile o'**** in myy opinion.But what do we know,90% of our business is the 350Z.. :lmfao:
Whatever you decide please do not be tempted to go Supercharger, take it from a person who had both items,TT or turbo is the way to go.The SC's tend to be more trouble than their worth...
new motor mounts, the stockers will wear and start to shift ever so slightly and the APS tubing will hit the steering shaft. Definitely a MUST for keeping the car a long time
Actually this is speculation and you are starting a NEW rumor with no factual basis.This type of theorizing has becom the cause of many "I Got the majic solution threads"
I you want reliable HP and do not abuse your car then give me a call and we can discuss some options for you,right now we are running a special on APS TT kits installed for $8900. This kit is the most reliable and complete.All you basically need to add is a boost guage and AF if you see fit. Do not believe EVERYTHING you read on the internet, as there are alot of people with a little information. This behavior causes the mass hysteria we tend to see in the Z community,like when someone poped their engine on an ATI procharger,and one guy went out and said he found the solution in the J&S safe guard. There was a big rush of those units sold and as to date everyone that I have had experience with has caused problems on the Z and is a steamy pile o'**** in myy opinion.But what do we know,90% of our business is the 350Z.. :lmfao:
Whatever you decide please do not be tempted to go Supercharger, take it from a person who had both items,TT or turbo is the way to go.The SC's tend to be more trouble than their worth...
[/quote]
It's a rumor to you. On the other forum we are discussing this. For people who have had the APS kit on for quite a while they will start rubbing the steering shaft. So it isn't a rumor, it's happened to a few people. It isn't really the APS kit itself, it's just that the way APS ran the tubing it was closer than most kits to the steering shaft, so when the engine mounts wore down it started hitting the steering shaft on abrupt turns.
If he wants something reliable, I suggest upgrading what I listed above. I guess I should have added that the specific brands are just my opinion.
It's a rumor to you. On the other forum we are discussing this. For people who have had the APS kit on for quite a while they will start rubbing the steering shaft. So it isn't a rumor, it's happened to a few people. It isn't really the APS kit itself, it's just that the way APS ran the tubing it was closer than most kits to the steering shaft, so when the engine mounts wore down it started hitting the steering shaft on abrupt turns.
If he wants something reliable, I suggest upgrading what I listed above. I guess I should have added that the specific brands are just my opinion.
Joined
·
1,799 Posts
APS Twin Turbocharger Kit (it includes an oil pan and shielded crank angle sensor wire, so no worries there)
a good choice
Pistons and rods (you're choice, IMO, Arias and Pauter are the way to go, they are cheap and can hold well over 1000whp)
you have personal experience with Arias and Pauter? We prefer the CP or JE pistons and Pauter rods
ARP head and main studs (stockers don't last over 400rwhp) Must need
Twin-plate clutch and flywheel (ATS, get the carbon coating on the flywheel too for it to withstand 50 more HP (it already can hold over 700rwhp though) for $50 more) Over kill unless he will be pushing 700hp, clutchmasters stage 3 will do just fine
5AT 3.27 rear end differential and Quaife LSD please expound on your reasoning, or are you just quoting parts?
NGK Iridium spark plugs stay away from iridium
Gauges (I recommend only a boost, EGT/wideband/a/f ratio, and oil temp.)
EGT is useless,by the time you see it go over,you have done damage..Go with boost and A/F wideband and optional fuel pressure
Ceramic coat the pistons (Arias offers this as an option from the factory) and rods.
Waste of money..
JetHot coat the exhaust manifold, the turbocharger, the test pipes and even the exhaust all the way to the muffler) another waste of money...
Non-resonated test pipes
Good-flowing exhaust (you may want to get a custom HKS exhaust made, just get a carbon Ti muffler and get the muffler shop (preferably the one you are getting to do your turbo kit to do it so they know what it's for) to mandrel bend some 3.5" tubing and run it from the test pipes to the muffler; you can do a double setup of that if you want also) Overkill...
grounding kit useless..
Unorthodox Racing crankshaft pulley wont make much of a difference on a TT car
a good choice
Pistons and rods (you're choice, IMO, Arias and Pauter are the way to go, they are cheap and can hold well over 1000whp)
you have personal experience with Arias and Pauter? We prefer the CP or JE pistons and Pauter rods
ARP head and main studs (stockers don't last over 400rwhp) Must need
Twin-plate clutch and flywheel (ATS, get the carbon coating on the flywheel too for it to withstand 50 more HP (it already can hold over 700rwhp though) for $50 more) Over kill unless he will be pushing 700hp, clutchmasters stage 3 will do just fine
5AT 3.27 rear end differential and Quaife LSD please expound on your reasoning, or are you just quoting parts?
NGK Iridium spark plugs stay away from iridium
Gauges (I recommend only a boost, EGT/wideband/a/f ratio, and oil temp.)
EGT is useless,by the time you see it go over,you have done damage..Go with boost and A/F wideband and optional fuel pressure
Ceramic coat the pistons (Arias offers this as an option from the factory) and rods.
Waste of money..
JetHot coat the exhaust manifold, the turbocharger, the test pipes and even the exhaust all the way to the muffler) another waste of money...
Non-resonated test pipes
Good-flowing exhaust (you may want to get a custom HKS exhaust made, just get a carbon Ti muffler and get the muffler shop (preferably the one you are getting to do your turbo kit to do it so they know what it's for) to mandrel bend some 3.5" tubing and run it from the test pipes to the muffler; you can do a double setup of that if you want also) Overkill...
grounding kit useless..
Unorthodox Racing crankshaft pulley wont make much of a difference on a TT car
Joined
·
1,799 Posts
It's a rumor to you. On the other forum we are discussing this. For people who have had the APS kit on for quite a while they will start rubbing the steering shaft. So it isn't a rumor, it's happened to a few people. It isn't really the APS kit itself, it's just that the way APS ran the tubing it was closer than most kits to the steering shaft, so when the engine mounts wore down it started hitting the steering shaft on abrupt turns.
If he wants something reliable, I suggest upgrading what I listed above. I guess I should have added that the specific brands are just my opinion.
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[/quote]
No kidding..Who's cars do you think its happening on.MRC's cars., our cars.
10secapsttz =daking350z :wavey:
We said its only speculation at this time, what your doing is making a speculation into a proven fact and thats simply not the case at this time. When we find out the cause we will let you know,so dont tell everyone to run out and get Urethane motor mounts just yet. I appriciate you input and enthusiasm but lets not start a mass hysteria and majic fix just yet..
[/quote]
No personal experience with anything.
Doesn't the stage 3 clutch have a lot of chatter?
I like Pauter pistons because of the price, CR options, and coating options.
The automatic differential so he won't have to shift as often, a few F/I Z's complain about shifting so much. Quaife LSD has a no-fault warranty, if you break it anywhere doing anything they'll replace it, plus Quaife's are supposed to be the quietest for daily driving and are pretty good for dragging every now and then.
I really don't see why you don't agree with some stuff, and especially the tone you are taking, you'd think I was making money off of this and/or preventing MRC from getting potential money.
No personal experience with anything.
Doesn't the stage 3 clutch have a lot of chatter?
I like Pauter pistons because of the price, CR options, and coating options.
The automatic differential so he won't have to shift as often, a few F/I Z's complain about shifting so much. Quaife LSD has a no-fault warranty, if you break it anywhere doing anything they'll replace it, plus Quaife's are supposed to be the quietest for daily driving and are pretty good for dragging every now and then.
I really don't see why you don't agree with some stuff, and especially the tone you are taking, you'd think I was making money off of this and/or preventing MRC from getting potential money.
No kidding..Who's cars do you think its happening on.MRC's cars., our cars.
10secapsttz =daking350z :wavey:
We said its only speculation at this time, what your doing is making a speculation into a proven fact and thats simply not the case at this time. When we find out the cause we will let you know,so dont tell everyone to run out and get Urethane motor mounts just yet. I appriciate you input and enthusiasm but lets not start a mass hysteria and majic fix just yet..
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[/quote]
Ahh.
I didn't see it as something completely necessary unless you plan on having a high HP 350Z for quite a long time.
BTW, glad you're posting on the other site again, it helps to have input from people who had experience with the VQ35DE.
Joined
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256 Posts
So the 5AT use a lower geared rear-end? That's what I would want to get into. I wanna be able to get above 60mph in 2nd. I plan on putting 550-600 to the wheels and I think with the current gearing, I'll just be spinning the tires waaaay too much.
Joined
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256 Posts
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The auto is 3.27, the manual is 3.55.
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Sweet!!! That should put me up above 70 in 2nd then (just guessing). Are you sure there are no issues with swapping them? Also, is it the same type as the 6mt? Does anyone, like Cusco (I think that's one of the companies who makes the aftermarket ones), make a "clutch" type 3.27?
The auto is 3.27, the manual is 3.55.
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[/quote]
Sweet!!! That should put me up above 70 in 2nd then (just guessing). Are you sure there are no issues with swapping them? Also, is it the same type as the 6mt? Does anyone, like Cusco (I think that's one of the companies who makes the aftermarket ones), make a "clutch" type 3.27?
Joined
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12,863 Posts
My motor is out of the car as I type...swaping very soon. If any new info is available on the motor mounts I would really appreciate a heads-up.
If you car is going to be a daily driver...and you are concerned about realiability...I would forego forced induction altogether. That said...the APS TT kit would be you best bet IMO if you want the most relaiable F/I application available to date. Talking to reputable shops that have experience with our motor is a good idea. Good luck ...Kenny
If you car is going to be a daily driver...and you are concerned about realiability...I would forego forced induction altogether. That said...the APS TT kit would be you best bet IMO if you want the most relaiable F/I application available to date. Talking to reputable shops that have experience with our motor is a good idea. Good luck ...Kenny
[/quote]
The auto is 3.27, the manual is 3.55.
<div align="right">[snapback]80158[/snapback]
[/quote]
Sweet!!! That should put me up above 70 in 2nd then (just guessing). Are you sure there are no issues with swapping them? Also, is it the same type as the 6mt? Does anyone, like Cusco (I think that's one of the companies who makes the aftermarket ones), make a "clutch" type 3.27?
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[/quote]
Good question. I'll find out what exactly is needed for the swap and the what the deal is with everything.
The auto is 3.27, the manual is 3.55.
<div align="right">[snapback]80158[/snapback]
[/quote]
Sweet!!! That should put me up above 70 in 2nd then (just guessing). Are you sure there are no issues with swapping them? Also, is it the same type as the 6mt? Does anyone, like Cusco (I think that's one of the companies who makes the aftermarket ones), make a "clutch" type 3.27?
<div align="right">[snapback]80160[/snapback]
[/quote]
Good question. I'll find out what exactly is needed for the swap and the what the deal is with everything.
ok, so APS=RELIABLE hp right? Before I got the Z all I had was domestics, 67&69 Mustangs to hotrod. They were quiet a bit easier to work on than the Z. I am new to the Import scene, that is why I am unsure on what to do? It's just hard for me to realize that I can get that much HP out of a 6 cyl, when I am use to hearing about that much coming from an 8cyl.
cjones, well, you are dealing with Nissan engines, and Nissan engines are capable of a lot of hp (i.e. RB26DETT, RB25DETT, KA24DE (did pretty good considering), SR20DET, etc.).
If you look at my sig. in this thread towards the top you'll see what I plan on doing, my car will be a daily driver, just...a little extreme. :biggrin:
Yes, APS is reliable and COMPLETE.
If you look at my sig. in this thread towards the top you'll see what I plan on doing, my car will be a daily driver, just...a little extreme. :biggrin:
Yes, APS is reliable and COMPLETE.
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