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Hey guys, just thought I would give some of my info on this thread since I own a UTEC and have posted on several other sites about it and spoken to several tuners about what kind of A/F's to go for and what not. The guys from MRC Motorsports told me to tune it for 13.0-13.5 A/F up to 6200, and above that run about 12.7 with as much timing advance as it will allow without knock. Westpak on 350zmotoring suggested 13.0-13.5 across the board. I would personally shoot for 13.5 up to 4000 and then gradually taper to 12.8 or so. If you are going to rev the **** out of the thing I would suggest you dump more fuel up top to prevent a preignition or detonation event, and don't set the timing too high on the top end!!

I need to go retune my car again because I recently put on test pipes. My settings were almost identical to the first map posted in this thread. All of the fuel settings for my car with cats were within 1 to 1.5% of the values on the posted map after I put the car on the dyno and then refined the tune on the street.

I will download that second map you have listed and see how it works with my test pipes. My previous tune is now dumping WAY too much fuel above 6K. I set it back to stock and datalogged it. What's funny is that right now on the stock ECU with the test pipes the car is faster than it was TUNED w/ the Cats. I know this because of frequent racing between my friend and I in his SR20 240sx. Our races usually end up with me winning by a fender. I added the test pipes, stock ECU and he added two pounds of boost and the same thing happened, I win by about a fender.

One thing I noticed a lot when looking at the datalogs from stock ECU settings before and after the test pipes is that the timing values are no longer consistent like they were and if I drive the car on the highway for 150 miles they change considerably from 4k-5.5K, dropping below 19 degrees at times. If I reset the ECU it gives me some of the timing back and I can feel the difference in a 4th gear run. Datalogs after a reset showed that the timing never would drop below 20 except right at 4400 where it hits 19.7 just like it should (stock ECU) with Cats. One day soon I am going to go get some 93 octane gas again and see if the stock ECU actually notices the difference. When I first bought the UTEC we could still get 93 everywhere here in Oklahoma, now only a few stations carry it. Ok well that's my splurge on UTEC stuff, good luck guys!!!
 

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right guys,

thanks to Jaysen I now have a UTEC to play with here in the UK :yourock:

questions first:
1- my laptop hasn't got a port for the serial cable as supplied with the UTEC :helpsmilie: had to connect it to my desktop! suggestions for alternative connections? laptop has about 2 USB ports (what cable would you need to connect the UTEC via USB, the connector has a weird shape! what about that RJ45 plug on the utec??)

2- UTEC software version: it has the 2.3 on it. Now the UTEC came with a NA map from Japtrix, which I have promptly saved to my PC, as well as the parameters. I want to update the UTEC software to the most recent 2.8d, but in the manual it says not to upload parameter files from older versions, and to write them manually. That would be all well and good if I could work out the .txt file of the parameters I have just saved! :banghead: anyone knows how to "decypher it" ?

3- I thought I could go with the TXS parameters for NA from their website, once upgraded the software... BUT http://www.turboxs.com/utec350zupdate.htm it doesn't seem to be there! (ie when I open the link it's blank (intake&exhaustPARAmaf file)

4- upload maps: is it ok to upload maps that might be coming from older software versions? I guess so, but thought I'd better check.


thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #43
To answer the first question you need a USB B-Male to A-Male cable. (see attached image). You then need to run the USB drivers from the TurboXS web site that will make the USB cable function as if it were serial cable. Doing this will give you an addition "virtual" COM port on your laptop.
 

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When you update to a newer version the parameters cannot be uploaded and have to be manually inputted, being that it is an NA tune, the parameters were probably not tweaked much other than the knock sensitivity and knock counts, so I would just upgrade to a newer version and upload the maps and see how it works and if you have to adjust the knock parameters, in some sections it is too sensitive and the knock count threashold is set at 1. We normally see an issue with the knock settings at high rpms where it is probably mainly noise and not count since it is out of the load area.
 

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thanks for that!

I guess I could take screen prints of the different parameter settings and re-set them (after having upgraded the software) as they were when you mapped it Westpak :)

Another question: fuel.

I heard that our european fuels are usually better quality than your US ones. Would this mean that with a US map, in theory there's scope for a little improvement when tuned/tweaked for a Uk car which uses euro fuels?
 

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thanks for that!

I guess I could take screen prints of the different parameter settings and re-set them (after having upgraded the software) as they were when you mapped it Westpak :)

Another question: fuel.

I heard that our european fuels are usually better quality than your US ones. Would this mean that with a US map, in theory there's scope for a little improvement when tuned/tweaked for a Uk car which uses euro fuels?
If they are higher octane then yes, ours here is 93
 

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ours is 97RON, but apparently US and UK measure octanes differently, just to make things even more complicated.

Will try and find out what does US 93 corresponds to, here
 

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ours is 97RON, but apparently US and UK measure octanes differently, just to make things even more complicated.

Will try and find out what does US 93 corresponds to, here
Try to find out the MON rating for your fuel on the internet. If you find it, average that with the RON rating (R+M/2) to get the US rating.
 

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I had trouble with my utec since the first time I installed it , called the turbo xs guys but they could not help me , my throtle wont pass the 2000 RPMS......and I also get the cel on , try to reflash the software but still...think is the utec......
 

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Got the UTEC installed in my '06. Had to cut away some insulation from the firewall and from above the UTEC. Also had to bend the knee plate bracket out of the way. Probably going to the dyno later this evening. Already added 3 degrees of timing across the board above 2000rpm and 20% throttle. Mine came shipped with a really weird map in the #1 position. Killed my power big time. It had alot of fuel pulled out on the top end and wasn't very smooth. I zeroed out the fuel correction back to stock and added the timing. Feels better now. I'll post up a before and after on the dyno. Don't wanna mess with the fuel until I get a wideband on it and strap it down.
 

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Got the UTEC installed in my '06. Had to cut away some insulation from the firewall and from above the UTEC. Also had to bend the knee plate bracket out of the way. Probably going to the dyno later this evening. Already added 3 degrees of timing across the board above 2000rpm and 20% throttle. Mine came shipped with a really weird map in the #1 position. Killed my power big time. It had alot of fuel pulled out on the top end and wasn't very smooth. I zeroed out the fuel correction back to stock and added the timing. Feels better now. I'll post up a before and after on the dyno. Don't wanna mess with the fuel until I get a wideband on it and strap it down.

Do you have cipher? I log the OEM widebands with it. I actually log via cipher and the utec at the same time. Yeah, going the with the "Tuner" would be easier, and log everything through the utec. My method has not failed me yet.
 

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Do you have cipher? I log the OEM widebands with it. I actually log via cipher and the utec at the same time. Yeah, going the with the "Tuner" would be easier, and log everything through the utec. My method has not failed me yet.
No Cipher. I use a stand-alone wideband for tuning.
 

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Thanks for the great thead.
 

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Post your maps here.

NOTE: Use these maps at your own risk. These should only be used as starting points for tuning. Do not assume these maps are safe to upload to your Z and just drive. There is inherent dangers associated with trading maps.

Assuming you are smart enough to realize the risks, this thread is here for educational purposes.
Intake + Exhaust: [attachmentid=14977]

Intake + Exhaust + Test Pipes: [attachmentid=14978]
Could you share, what kind of intake, exhaust and test pipes were you using?

Nice treat by the way. Would be nicer If there were some other maps shared.

Edit: what numbers did the dyno show, if you still remember?
 

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i am one of the people with a 2006 OC Z. i have the replacement motor in its been doing good about 16 hundred miles on it. ill be putting all my mods back on. just letting you know that when i get it tuned regardless of what it cost to get it tuned ill post up my maps for my current setup. laters.
 

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Hi guys, i have downloaded the map 1 but make some problem of knoking at 4650rpm (16knok/turn!) so deleted it and downloaded the base map from turbo Xs.
I REALLY NEED HELP!! in italy nobody is able to tune it so if somebody can help me for my car can be kighly appreciated.
I have INJEN CAI, INJEN SES1986TI (TRUE DUAL), lightweight flywheel, and need a good map.
Also, somebody know how to cut off speed limiter???
I'm planning to go FI so if somebody have something used please PM me.
Also for the map i please PM me and i will pay if somebody can help or give me a WORKING MAP for my mods. Also i eared about a map to use in the carshow to make flame and bang, is somewhere?
Another suggestion: i plan to mount SPORTCATS or TESTPIPES...suggestions??
thank to everybody can give me suggestion and help
 
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