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Looking at the Kappa 60..7cs crutchfield.com shows that they dont fit the 350Z. since you say that it was installed did where did you put the crossover?
Yeah, i'm trying to get the same exact setup but it says it won't fit on any Z.
 

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Yeah, i'm trying to get the same exact setup but it says it won't fit on any Z.
The stock mounting location for the door speakers have a very shallow mounting depth. Very few aftermarket speakers will work as a direct bolt-in replacemant. If you make use of some sort of spacer ring, then you can mount just about any speaker (within reason) in the factory location.

Toykilla already has tutorial on how to make a spacer: Front Speaker Wiki

Regards,
Ronin Z
 

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This is supposed to be the "End all Bose audio thread", so I hope I am asking this in the right place. I have an 04 Touring withe the Bose system, 6 CD in dash... etc, Could someone please explain to me what the "Audiopilot" function is, what it does... I only know that when I press the Audio button, to adjust things like bass and treble, there is also an option to turn "AudioP" on or off... I tried looking in the manual and it mentions "Audiopilot" a few times but has no explanation of what it does... any feedback is much appreciated, Thanks!

dont place the same post twice that $h1t is annoying
 

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Yeah, i'm trying to get the same exact setup but it says it won't fit on any Z.

Actually I Just installed the Kappa's and they have changed the type of magnet that they are using which has actually made it so the speaker fits in the stock mounting section. Crutchfield states that it doesnt and it actually does. Now i did buy my speakers off of Ebay cause they are a third cheaper and they are new in the box. I was able to put these speakers in the stock hole without any need to fabricate any kind of spacer or buy one. and they fit now =)
 

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Swedish! Thanks a bunch. I actually purchased those two pairs, a pair of tweeters, and the Alpine DVA-9861 all for 800. Shipping is included as well. I think that was a pretty good deal. It said the Alpine DVA-9861 fitted, just hope it fits. I'm also having mobiletoys.com install the parts. Is that a wrong move? Know any other domestic stores that would do a good job of installation? Thanks for replying back.
 

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I have a new question, didnt know the best keywords to use to search for this question.

If the Bose amp is in back, that should mean the wirings for the speakers all go back there and not to the head unit like most systems. That means that if I was to wire new aftermarket speakers to a new head unit, would there have to be new wiring work done to reroute them all up to the HU? Wouldnt that cost a good bit more for a professional job?

My reason of asking is I dont know if I should spend more to reroute the speaker wires up front or to just by a new amp for them and stick it in or near the old bose amp location.

Thanks in advance
 

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Discussion Starter #28
I have a new question, didnt know the best keywords to use to search for this question.

If the Bose amp is in back, that should mean the wirings for the speakers all go back there and not to the head unit like most systems. That means that if I was to wire new aftermarket speakers to a new head unit, would there have to be new wiring work done to reroute them all up to the HU? Wouldnt that cost a good bit more for a professional job?

My reason of asking is I dont know if I should spend more to reroute the speaker wires up front or to just by a new amp for them and stick it in or near the old bose amp location.

Thanks in advance
I have to say the Bose becomes more fuzzy with time. I started this thread to end all of the fuss, but a few people have chimed in saying "well i didnt have to do that".

Essentially we have:

Radio---->Amplifier---->Speakers

In my opinion, if you buy a quality aftermarket head unit, you do not want the signal going through the Blose amplifier.

There are several ways around it.

1. run new wires to the speakers.
2. bridge the speaker wires at the amp.

Option 2 involves jumping the amplfier input wires to the output wires. This can all be done at the back of the car near the amp.

I would favor option 1 and infact we have a tutorial on how to do it: http://www.350z-tech.com/zwiki/Tutorial:Fr...er_Wire_Routing
 

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Ahhhhhh I totally missed that tutorial browsing around earler, thanks for that link, that definitely clears it up for me.
 

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Oddly enough the Bose system in the G35 sounds better than the 350Z and its suppose to be the same thing. I couldnt take it anymore :headshake: and ripped out the factory system and replaced with Alpine headunit and MB Quarts component interiors. Soooo much better. :shiftdrive: Oh ya amps pushing sub and hdunit & interiors !
 

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My left hand side speakers (in the door) are intermittently cutting out in my Bose system.

It appears to be a connection problem as if I hard brake, accelerate, hit bumps, rock about in my seat, change the car's position relative to the Sun and moon, contemplate the meaning of life, etc it'll (dis)connect. All of a sudden I'll go from no audio in my left ear to ear-shattering volume because I've cranked the volume up to compensate.

I'm not alone in this - a friend's 350Z (different year model) is experiencing the same problem.


Has anyone heard about this, and if so where's the loose connection? Or perhaps the wire has rubbed through somewhere because of crap design and is now hanging loose somewhere? I don't want to replace the ICE yet and I don't want to pay some guy his butt-raping rates to trace the wires to find the problem if its not a connector at the amp or driver.
 

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Infinity Kappa 60.7cs (front) and 62.7i (rear).

The guy who installed them for me is almost finished writing a DIY. It will be posted on ZChickz when it's complete.
how much were the speakers and where can i find them?
 

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My left hand side speakers (in the door) are intermittently cutting out in my Bose system.

It appears to be a connection problem as if I hard brake, accelerate, hit bumps, rock about in my seat, change the car's position relative to the Sun and moon, contemplate the meaning of life, etc it'll (dis)connect. All of a sudden I'll go from no audio in my left ear to ear-shattering volume because I've cranked the volume up to compensate.

I'm not alone in this - a friend's 350Z (different year model) is experiencing the same problem.
Has anyone heard about this, and if so where's the loose connection? Or perhaps the wire has rubbed through somewhere because of crap design and is now hanging loose somewhere? I don't want to replace the ICE yet and I don't want to pay some guy his butt-raping rates to trace the wires to find the problem if its not a connector at the amp or driver.
We have a non-Bose Maxima doing exactly this. They must use cheap wiring or something, because everything else has been replaced. I'd strongly consider testing the wire to see if it hasn't frayed and all but broken somwhere, as I suspect that's our problem.

Pat
 

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Maybe this is a dumb question, but if i'm gonna change the HU and amp and speakers. Can i get the new hu with adapter and change it first, then get the new amp with adapter and change it, then change speakers, so this way i am not having to rewire the whole thing? I am fairly good with this stuff but just a little lazy at the same time, hehe.
 

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Ok, I get asked the same questions about Bose almost once a week. This thread is meant to slow down the emails and PMs I get about this stupid hardware.

If you want to keep your Bose Headunit and replace the amp and speakers, you need this:
http://www.pac-audio.com/oem1kits/aoemresu...for+AOEM-1+kits

If you want to change you Bose headunit and keep your stock amp and speakers, you need this:
http://www.pac-audio.com/oem1kits/roemresu...for+ROEM-1+kits

You cannot change your speakers and keep the stock amp.

You cannot change the stock amp and keep the stock speakers.

You cannot change the headunit without the above adaptor.
 

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can't we just rip out the BLOSE amp and put in a quality amp, don't all the wires tie back to that location?

I want to add a new amp but I want to use existing wiring not have to pull wires to every speaker, possible?
 

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I have to say the Bose becomes more fuzzy with time. I started this thread to end all of the fuss, but a few people have chimed in saying "well i didnt have to do that".

Essentially we have:

Radio---->Amplifier---->Speakers

In my opinion, if you buy a quality aftermarket head unit, you do not want the signal going through the Blose amplifier.

There are several ways around it.

1. run new wires to the speakers.
2. bridge the speaker wires at the amp.

Option 2 involves jumping the amplfier input wires to the output wires. This can all be done at the back of the car near the amp.

I would favor option 1 and infact we have a tutorial on how to do it: http://www.350z-tech.com/zwiki/Tutorial:Fr...er_Wire_Routing


has anybody done option 2 because i just cut the amp harness?
 

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Infinity Kappa 60.7cs (front) and 62.7i (rear).

The guy who installed them for me is almost finished writing a DIY. It will be posted on ZChickz when it's complete.

Good thread. I'm thinking of putting the Infinity Kappa 60.7cs (front) and 62.7i (rear) in my 05Z and leaving the Bose headunit and amp with the thought that I can always upgrade later. Looking for the best improvement in sound for the least $. Not really an audiophile just want a step up.

Since this thread is somewhat dated, I wanted to check and see if this was still a good plan or is there a better way to spend my money as regards the sound system?

Thanks

Tom

I went to the local stereo/tinting shop (Mothers). Fairly well respected in
Austin. They had done a few 350z's with new audiio system and would not even quote me a price.
Too much of a PITA to mess with.
Amazing.
 
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