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Discussion Starter #21
i really would have wanted bigger ones but i didnt for two reasons:
1. its my daily for now (im on my quest for a low milage 01-03 white s2k for a beater)
2. i got these brand spanking new for over 1/2 off retail

ive been pretty happy with the car before the cam install in the 268 tune. its hasnt lost to a car its ran (all been low and mid 13 sec cars). i do admit i play a lil on the street (its due to the stupid gotat driving bf of mine) but i would like to break 13s on DR with less then 5 grand into power mods and tuning.

i do have breather mods: here is the list:
jwt popcharger with heat shield and titek cf intake duct (doubtful the duct does anything)
motor dyne 5/16
stillin SS headers
IP test pipes
greddy evo2
utec
tomei 264
jwt springs and shims
(i had a new nismo cai but sold it bc i didnt want to risk a cai in atl driving conditions)

i would love for the peak hp to shift to the right and the tq to stay put
 

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QUOTE (baby_ruiner @ Mar 8 2008, 08:54 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=504478
i would love for the peak hp to shift to the right and the tq to stay put

before variable cam timing, that would have been difficult. Today, with the right tuning, you'll hardly notice the torque dip, but the power up top will come on strong.


You are going to roughly shift power 1000rpm to the right with the 264 (268?) Tomei.

Your peak power should be right around/at 7000-7250rpm. If it were me (and it's not) :) and it were my show, I wouldn't spin it past 7400rpm.


stop street racing. :) It's totally gay..
 

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Discussion Starter #23
QUOTE (illz33 @ Mar 8 2008, 07:59 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=504484
before variable cam timing, that would have been difficult. Today, with the right tuning, you'll hardly notice the torque dip, but the power up top will come on strong.


You are going to roughly shift power 1000rpm to the right with the 264 (268?) Tomei.

Your peak power should be right around/at 7000-7250rpm. If it were me (and it's not) :) and it were my show, I wouldn't spin it past 7400rpm.


stop street racing. :) It's totally gay..
thanks for the input, im excited about the extra power band i am going to get and happy i upgraded my valve train to compensate. im not the one to rev that high on a daily basis, specially with gas being like it is. and street racing is le ghey, just had to put the other na vq boys and a m3 and sti in their places
 

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QUOTE (baby_ruiner @ Mar 9 2008, 12:09 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=504599
thanks for the input, im excited about the extra power band i am going to get and happy i upgraded my valve train to compensate. im not the one to rev that high on a daily basis, specially with gas being like it is.

p.s. The reason I mentioned not going above 7400 was due to your current bottom end (short block). Otherwise, you could be up around 7800-8200, but your cams will not pull that high.

I'd be stoked too. I once had a set of cams in your spec that I was going to install. Hence the reason I'm giving you the numbers.

You're going to have a nice setup. What about the rest of the car? (suspension)
 

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QUOTE (illz33 @ Mar 8 2008, 04:27 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=504457
Those 264 Tomei's are good stuff. Would be my choice (or 272) for cams with the non revup VQ.

Your hp suffers up top because of the "normal" intake restrictions (plenum, etc) of the non revup. Those cams will CERTAINLY open that can of worms up.

Did you do a plenum spacer of some sorts? That helps the inbalance on the non revup.


I would imagine you'll top 280whp.. But, don't worry if you don't, it'll still pull like lightning with excellent throttle response. Dynos are just rollers that put out inaccurate numbers from dyno to dyno.. Don't put much stock in them. As long as you our happy that is all that matters. And that you have more power than before.. and can use it more often.


Did you touch the rear diff yet? LSD or 3.9 + R&P? THAT, with cams is fire... pure fire.
R&P??? what is that...just curious.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
QUOTE (illz33 @ Mar 8 2008, 11:37 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=504616
p.s. The reason I mentioned not going above 7400 was due to your current bottom end (short block). Otherwise, you could be up around 7800-8200, but your cams will not pull that high.

I'd be stoked too. I once had a set of cams in your spec that I was going to install. Hence the reason I'm giving you the numbers.

You're going to have a nice setup. What about the rest of the car? (suspension)

i just have tein s techs which i havent had any problem with.... i upgraded the brakes and rotors but they are still oem spec...i was about to order sways then BAM! rock hit my wind shield and put those back another week....since im pretty maxed out on power mods besides nitrious im going to work on the little things like some suspension and braking things and also try to sell my axis rims so i can get some black ccw classics :)
 

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if you have over 60k i would HIGHLY recommend replacing the swaybar end links, especially since you will be getting sways!

i have been troubleshooting swaybar walk for a while....replacing all four endlinks 2 days ago totally solved my problem...now it's down to struts/shocks with better dampening, and an alignment and i believe i am done.

just because the endlinks do not look worn does not mean they are ok...all 4 of mine were still sealed and had grease in them, but they wore out anyway....the passenger rear broke in half removing them( i was not being rough)....so i took a hammer and busted it open....seems the inner tip of the ball has wear.....i first replaced the fronts....then the rears a week later....the rears were actually the problem...but why only replace 2 of them.

if you decide against sways, replace the swaybar bushings with at least rubber bushings.....all can be purchased from mynismo.com ( online nissan dealer in duarte, ca) for under 90.00 shipped.

simply amazing how worn swaybar bushings and endlinks can make the Z feel like a civic with no swaybars, worn struts and 200,000k on the stock bushings.....For a while I hated the Z! until i finally fixed it.
 

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QUOTE (baby_ruiner @ Mar 8 2008, 03:47 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=504439
tis true. when i was richer the car ran like crap. im thinking with cams in it it will want it a lil richer. any thoughts. i think icobra is around 11 ish.
I'm tuned to 12.7:1.
 

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QUOTE (baby_ruiner @ Jan 6 2008, 09:03 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=473900
so basically i took the Z (2003 m6) to one of the "best" import tuners for all cars on the east coast. im talking about 1600whp supras, 1000whp evos yadda yadda. the guy who owns the supra is a good friend of the family so we figured his tuner would take good care of the Z even though she is slow. i had talked to the shop about possibly installing my cams and valve train which is a decently expensive job so i thought they would see this as a good opportunity. well needless to say they did a joke of a job. only did 7 total pulls tuning the car, tuned it on the maf voltage, and jacked maps from a cammed z(my z isnt cammed yet although all my parts are sitting and waiting for my tech to install them). the baseline was 240whp. all he got out of it was 247whp. for my mods that was REALLY low so i did some research and come to find he had jacked the maps and not tuned on a wideband. the tuner had the balls to tell me his DJ reads high!

i took the Z to the shop where my bf's ls2 gto gets work done. the tuner there, eli (who had never used utec before let alone tuned a z) showed me on hypertermial the sketchness of the first tune. the afr on the ond tune was 11 to 12 across the board, the new afr is around the 13-13.2 mark. eli redid my tune ( i only have the dyno from the first session, it got late so i came back the next week and he finished it off) and in conclusion got 270whp and 265tq in its final pulls. mind you all pulls where done in 4th gear on a dyno jet. eli's DJ is fair. it read an intake only 03 m6 z at 232/225 ten minutes after my run. eli's dyno was not corrected but i do beleive the first shop corrected his numbers. it is def a very different car after eli's tune and has pulled away from mid and low 13 sec cars on the streets. ill post up the final sheet if i can find it since i think i deleted it from my email and the dyno of the tomei cam tune (hopefully sometime by the end of the month).


Why is there such a sharp drop @ 6k on the dyno sheet? Did my the other day and looks real nice with an even pull the whole way....
 

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I realize this thread is old, but I was just wondering how high the JWT valvetrain upgrade will allow you to rev(assuming you have a build motor that can handle it)
 
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