it's going to house two 8 inch MBQuart RWE204 DVC subs. the rear section under the back of the strut bar is going to have either a plexi window with the JL logo etched in so the blue neons next to the ends of the plexi inside the box light up the letters, or i'm going to cut out the J and L from the wood, plexi inside and light that up, not sure yet.
the enclosure internal volume is 1.06 cubic feet, all joints and grooves sealed with silicon, 1 5/8 inch drywall screws every 2 inches, black carpet inside, vinyl outside, and wait till you guys see what i have in store for the amp rack section in front of the strut bar...hehehehe ever see an amp look like its floating??
my components are:
Head unit: Alpine CDA-7892 soon to be Eclipse CD-3434
Front speakers: MBQuart PCE216
Subs: two 8 inch MBQuart RWE204
Speaker amp: JL Audio 300/4 bridged to 300/2
Sub amp: JL Audio 250/1
Capacitor: Daxx 1.0 Farad
Power and speaker Wires: Daxx Professional Edition
dynamatting works wonders, did it in my cavalier and 2 layers in my prelude, it really does make the sound cleaner because it eliminates resonation off the body panels and interior parts of the car. best thing you can do is the doors, sealing all the holes eliminates a ton of road noise and you can hear your music so much cleaner. also, do the floors, firewall and roof. Double layer the trunk lid if you have one, single layer a hatch if you have that.
basically dynamat makes it so the resonant frequency of panels and interior parts is a lot higher, a.k.a. it adds weight and density so crap won't rattle because it becomes to heavy to do so.
does anyone know the problematic rattling areas in the Z that i should definitely dynamat??
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