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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
As the title suggests. First I had to strip the mounting brackets from the donor chassis. Took my time and carefully unpicked them after about 2-3 hours including coffee.
The front end attachment was actually very simple indeed.
I stripped the Z front of Sway bar mounting brackets and original front end chassis mounted studs (that is scarey as there is definitely no turning back to the old front end after that), The new brackets were positioned in place with small screws (to allow for adjustment) , aligned and tacked in place. Finally spot welding to the chassis through the stock holes and then stiched for additional strength around the outside. time taken; about 4-5 hours, moving slowly, enjoying the carnage and sipping more coffee.
[attachment=26359:Z_work_020.jpg][attachment=26360:Z_work_033.jpg][attachment=26
362:Z_work_1_034.jpg][attachment=26361:Z_work_1_035.jpg]

After that task was complete bar the paintwork, I turned to the floorpan. Now despite myth that the TFR wont fit;
The floorpan pressing is identicle EXCEPT for halfway up the tunnel the Z "bulges" into the tunnel and the G35X continues the releif. The solution. Remove all carpets etc. (thats a given) Cut ABOUT a 200mm long x 150mm deep section from the floor JUST IN FRONT of the seat mount on the tunnel. the lower cut HAS to be just above the Floor plate joint that is visible internally (in cabin) This maintains the integity of the original floorpan and its bracing but releives sheet metal that has an awkward press up to the gearstick area.
The donor section is from the G35X and has about 3 layers of bracing and seat brackets over the wanted section. (I believe this is done to stiffen the G35X pan as its inherently weaker design due to length etc) see pics;[attachment=26363:Z_work_1_030.jpg][attachment=26364:Z_work_1_031.jpg][atta
chment=26365:Z_work_1_032.jpg][attachment=26366:Z_work_1_033.jpg]
The match is almost perfect and the plate size has been trimmed to create the smallest possible section.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
A dummy fit of the auto transmission resulted in a perfect fit with oodles of room for movement. The z's chassis remains intact with original strength and transfer case positioning. Of course it has to be further welded and painted but the basic job is done. Believe me its quite easy but "ya gotta be brave" once you cut the mounts off and hack the floor, there is no turning back. A panel shop would do it with one arm behind their back and in one afternoon. The rear guards were infinitely more difficult.
A dummy fit of the Getrag box looks like a factory fit, but I cannot show it further as the machinist has taken two weeks holiday and .........read it and weep. His staff havn't been instructed to carry on so it just sits there, like so many of these little projects for the life of this build (2 years!) Yes I'm angry/frustrated but thats hardly the way to enjoy the build, so I chill.
The resultant setup will look factory z from inside the cabin including the original Z stick mechanism, boot etc. Underneath will utilise the original G35X front driveshaft but the rear will change with the slip joint on the diff, not the box. The new driveshaft will be lighter than the Z's pretend unit. the input shaft of the getrag is XXmm longer and stronger as this is their weak point. The clutch bearing mechanism is poetry but I'll supply a pic later when I put it on the bench and snap it. Its use will save weight, reduce peddle pressure and moving parts, and is a competition unit so it should handle the riggors of going to the local coffee shop with ease.
The front suspension is being replaced with the TEIN G35X setup and the rest of it is bolt in boring as everything simply fits like a glove. the lower control arm of the X is cast steel and heavy. The corresponding Z arm is alloy. I wonder if the alloy can handle the front torque or why exactly NISSAN used a cast steel instead of an alloy one. In the persuit of weight reduction i am tempted to use the alloy and see what happens.
The windscreen washer bottle moves to the spare tyre well along with the Attesa control pump and resorvoir and the battery. The spare tyre won't fit over the rear brakes let alone the fronts, so its elimination will assist in the next journey of weight reduction.
 

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Is it possible to use a manual box with this conversion ore are you stuck using the auto box?

I have seen a few builds doing this swap and it really sounds pretty "easy". Of course easy is relative to who is doing the work.
 

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Simple?? Dude that looks like a HUGE pain in the ass. It'll totally be worth it tho, especially if you're running a high HP motor. Traction FTW!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
QUOTE ([Cerberus] @ Mar 22 2009, 06:48 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=571705
Is it possible to use a manual box with this conversion ore are you stuck using the auto box?

I have seen a few builds doing this swap and it really sounds pretty "easy". Of course easy is relative to who is doing the work.
I am using the BNR34 Getrag 6 speed box. Its been race tested, there are aftermarket gearsets and clutchpacks etc so there is no reinventing the wheel. Same as the thrust bearing.......its tried and true so no problem with spares and setup etc. the gear ratios will be a mix of the V160 and the V161 version of the box to get the ratios close to what I'm chasing and allow cruise control and all electronics to talk to each other. I have even decided to go the hydraulic clutchpack of the R34 vs the electromagnetic clutchpack of the G35 because of the unknowns involved and shaft sizes.
When I say easy..........I have seen aftermarket engine swaps, and other fancy bells and whistles conversions that truely are a lot of work, with the chassis as well as the mechanicals. This one is a piece of cake compared. yes there is work, but 4 brackets, and a section of floorpan isn't exactly a Boyd Coddington hot rod build.
My workshop is very well equiped and everything is an arms reach away so it is relatively easy for me. If the best you have done is carbon covers, spoilers and floor mats.............you would be in trouble. A panel shop would have it out in under 2 days or a week including the rear guards and paint. (given that we now know what exactly to do)
There is a list of parts needed to carry out the conversion and I can see a saving of $20,000 (AUD) if you simply went to performance Nissan and bought the bits. Problem is in Australia.........which bits and where to speak to any coherent spare parts person who can actually comprehend what your chasing without pestering you with the eternal question ..........WHY?
You can speak to NISSAN Australia and they are barely aware that an awd G35X exists because it hasn't hit our shores. I have tried to contact the NY mob who did the auto conversion and can't raise a pulse so I decided to get a kit together to do the same thing. I rekon this should be very similar to the APS TT system, where you just get a pack and have it done at a body shop. Imagine how big a pain in the arse that would be Jetpilot718, about as simple as an APS TT setup!
Yes I realise I'm 4 years late but the cars are getting cheaper and on a colision course with modding by a different generation and this is a hobby to kill the boredom. Imagine.....you have a getrag box and you simply have to buy the kit to match it with the VQ series engine!! Well, thats what I want to provide.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
QUOTE (gadget1382 @ Mar 22 2009, 08:47 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=571781
Kudos bud!! For thinking outside the square and following through with it!

It will be something to show off to the nissan workshops so they know how it should have left the factory!?! :p
Zackly! My fear is they will say "Oh you need this little item or this little bracket" that has taken me ages to get a machinist to co-operate to have it made up. I guess when we have it digitised, we can spit 'em out.
 

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Amazing work, I wish we saw more of this kinda stuff on here. So this is a setup based of the G35X and the R34? Is the important stuff from the GTR with brackets from the G35X?

~Pat
 

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Discussion Starter #10
QUOTE (NoZYet @ Mar 23 2009, 08:46 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=571832
Amazing work, I wish we saw more of this kinda stuff on here. So this is a setup based of the G35X and the R34? Is the important stuff from the GTR with brackets from the G35X?

~Pat
thats correct Pat. The R34 stuff is already supported by gear manufacturers producing whatever ratio you want with syncros or dog engagements and sequentials, the transfer clutches are able to be upgraded with a 9 plate clutch setup, the ruzic electronic device (another Aussie) allows fine adjustment of front/rear bias...........the list goes on. The R34 has a strong Japanese racing support which means an almost unlimited depth of goodies for its bits. Getrag produced 2 versions of the 6 speed used in the BNR34, a V161 and a V160. I'm developing a bellhousing clutch bearing setup for this box. (see attached pic)
The different ratios combined with the diff choices give a very wide and reliable product range. Quaife now produce a centre for the BNR34 front diff giving a quiet clutchless awd lsd. I have yet to check the dimentions for the 34 spool to see if it can be used for the X
The doner X has the front end and engine mounts, diffs F&R to match ratios and a wide range of ratio choices now from 3.9, to 3.3 with the X being a 3.6XX. There's a heads up for you Z guys that want to drop your F/D to 3.6 which would be a mild drop not a 3.9 screamer. It would be a good track ratio I rekon and a budget purchase as the x isn't that popular (yet!) I can see the wrecking price of the X rising steadily as the third generation modding community get into it.
Its worth noting; If you use the 3.3 auto ratio, your cruise control won't operate properly. It cant handle a rev drop for top gear vs speed data coming in and it drops out. Uprev have tried to recalculate the ecu but can't crack it apparently. If you go down in ratio below the stock 3.5 everything works ok.
The other thing the donar x has to offer is the floorpan pressing. Its difficult to get as a spare part and a donor car is shagged if you cut that section out of the floor, making it expensive. I used a 9" angle grinder with a cutoff blade and just sliced through everything. there are 3 layers of bracing and brackets which have to be carefully unpicked. I'm just looking at taking a cast from the floor and I have a mate with a foundry who can cast me a block of iron that will allow me to do a ferfect match for the z floorpan. Possibly buils a crude press that will be able to knock them out. the actual pigiron would cost me nothing so it could be a good plaything to fiddle with. The original pan is quite thin and extremely difficult to weld so something a little more robust would allow a series of holes to be drilled in it to allow "stiching" as per factory brackets.[attachment=26373:Thrust_Bearing_001.jpg]
 

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This is currently my favorite thread around here. This is the kind of pioneering Z modding that the economy has really unfortunately wiped out lately, and it is a shame.

What kind of rear/front bias are you thinking to go with on the torque/power split since it sounds like you will be able to adjust it? Any plans to drop in one of those traction systems that transfer power on a corner/end basis to avoid wheel spin, or is already built into the system? Keep it up with the updates please, this thread is like cocaine for my imagination.

:yourock:
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Here is the trial fit with the auto box. The manual is still at the machinists for bellhousing and gearshift setup. The only real problem at the moment is the rack mount has to be changed from left hook to right. On the right side, the diff is slightly in the way. Also the Z rack has verticle studs and the X has horizontal mounted under the rack itself. I would have been cleaner to find a right hook X but I was lucky to get this one. As you can see, everything fits like a bought one.[attachment=26382:awd_pics_031.jpg][attachment=26383:awd_pics_030.jpg][attac
hment=26384:awd_pics_033.jpg]
 

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Thanks for letting us live vicariously through your mods!

vi⋅car⋅i⋅ous   [vahy-kair-ee-uhs, vi-] Show IPA
–adjective
1. performed, exercised, received, or suffered in place of another: vicarious punishment.
2. taking the place of another person or thing; acting or serving as a substitute.
3. felt or enjoyed through imagined participation in the experience of others: a vicarious thrill.
4. Physiology. noting or pertaining to a situation in which one organ performs part of the functions normally performed by another.

I had to look it up.
 

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hey guys.

Anyone know how much it would cost to do this CONVERSION ?

Places where they can do the conversion in sydney ?
 

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QUOTE (qikz @ Mar 27 2009, 10:35 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=572126
Here is the trial fit with the auto box. The manual is still at the machinists for bellhousing and gearshift setup. The only real problem at the moment is the rack mount has to be changed from left hook to right. On the right side, the diff is slightly in the way. Also the Z rack has verticle studs and the X has horizontal mounted under the rack itself. I would have been cleaner to find a right hook X but I was lucky to get this one. As you can see, everything fits like a bought one.[attachment=26382:awd_pics_031.jpg][attachment=26383:awd_pics_030.jpg][attac
hment=26384:awd_pics_033.jpg]

Man... that is so suspect. I've seen the Top Secret AWD Zed and JUN 3.8L AWD and envy them to the max.

Keep up the good work qikz

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VdYPXQgZ8Ss...feature=related

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1kicjBRABCU...feature=related

I'm sorry i don't speak Japanese
 

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Discussion Starter #19
QUOTE (Gendut @ May 11 2009, 08:00 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=575383
hey guys.

Anyone know how much it would cost to do this CONVERSION ?

Places where they can do the conversion in sydney ?
Just wait for the castings etc. To re-invent the wheel would be insane as the costs are ..............I don't count any more.!!!
I can give you the part numbers and each little nut and bolt for the job including what can be re used and what gets tossed. The actual bodywork is about 2 days work including paint, if that. You certainly don't have to remove radiator, bumper and all the front etc. That bit is simple.

The gearbox will be a straight bolt up (when the castings are done) and the input shaft is supplied with throw out bearing. If you want to auto gearbox it is much simpler but less thrashable. The tailshaft dimentions and gearstick setup will also be bolt up stuff. Getting all the bits for the box is by far the biggest job.
I have peeled off every bit of 35k just with my little bit of R&D. I will probably go through every bit of 55k before you can get the kit for a reasonable price. I am thinking it would cost about 15-20k excluding the donor box , a BNR34 6 speed Getrag with your 350Z shifter in our shifter housing. This should include the electronics but we have yet to go there. That would be a roadgoing machinery inspected unit. Of course you could get something cheaper but not with the quality finish. From in the cabin, you won't be able to pick it as the stick and boot etc will be the original, possibly sitting about 25-30mm higher..
The alternative is to buy a doner half cut and simply buy the adapter bellhousing and shift mechanism clutch throwout bearing and tailshaft from me.
Getting the first one done is always the most expensive especially when no one has the enthusiasm and doesn't believe. You have to flog them every step of the way (or is that just machinists). Once its done, they all want to own it as if it was their idea.......................... and how common is that little trip.
I know its not the first awdz but it is the first to my knowledge that will be supplied as a kit for the road with a step by step instruction on how to do it. It should take about 2 weeks to drive in drive out provided you have a workshop that doesn't work on everyone elses car instead of yours. (Does that sound bitter?)
My job is slow because there is some additional plumbing to fit the turbos around the new engine mounts, miss the new cross member and externally waste gate because of the mounts again (making sure we miss the front drive shaft. The APS sump won't fit (hits front diff housing) but we are CNCing a sump extension from some billet aluminium to accomodate the oil return lines, fit an external filter, add oil capacity etc etc.
I'm having the engine /turbo/tuning done in Brisbane but I will be crafting the gearbox fit in my workshop as we are much quicker cleaner and more dedicated at this stuff and less exposed to a lack of enthbusiasm and distractions. I discovered you can't R&D in someone elses environment, they just crumble when you fabricate, assemble, trial and adjust , then throw it out as a bad idea.
 

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Hey qikz, sounds like a very convincing acheivement for the horsepower you want to deliver to the pavement. I 'm wanting that same luxury and considering you have already done the homework for it all, I'm quite interested in the idea. After all, once the install of the JUN goes in it would be quite hard to keep traction to all two wheels, so I guess 4 of em would be a reasonable solution...ha ha ha. As much as i like wheel spin and leaving a fat set of 11's around town they still don't get you the 9 sec pass at the 1/4mile.

Where is this workshop of yours, that you speak of?
 
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