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I've been told that the car needs to be sitting on the ground to torque the sways down correctly. In other words, I'll have to put the car's wheels on bricks or something to get under there and torque them down.

I've also been told that it didn't matter. Which one is correct?

:helpsmilie:
 

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Originally posted by StudyBuddy@Jun 15 2005, 09:31 AM
I've been told that the car needs to be sitting on the ground to torque the sways down correctly. In other words, I'll have to put the car's wheels on bricks or something to get under there and torque them down.

I've also been told that it didn't matter. Which one is correct?

:helpsmilie:
[snapback]114537[/snapback]​


It doesn't matter, I have done both the 350 and 300 and neither required the car on the ground, both time up on a lift or jacks.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
There's my answer :thumbsup:

Thanks!

What are the torque specs for the Hotchkis bars? Does anyone know?
 

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Originally posted by JTS2005@Jun 15 2005, 10:51 AM
me and toykilla will be installing 2 sets this weekend!!
[snapback]114555[/snapback]​

AWESOME!

I'll let you know if I run into any bumps along the way. Seems pretty straight forward. I tried once already and I stripped a nut though. I just bought another one from Nissan. I'm going to make sure I don't use cheap tools this time :banghead: :doh:

Should be a nice little mod :shiftdrive:
 

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Have fun doing swaybar yoga! According to Aaron/Zivman, these will not make you disappointed. :thumbsup: I am seriously considering this mod for one of my winter projects. Let us know here how the install goes and what pointers you have for us. Good luck!
 

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I'm taking pictures and doing a write-up as well. Maybe I can help TK and Jaysen for their weekend project :werd:

From what I've heard from various other owners, sways will make it feel like it's riding on rails. No problems in the turns and will eliminate understeer and oversteer. I'm looking forward to that!
 

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yea i am very anxious and i know josh is as well!! i cant stand having parts just sit in my apt. :biggrin:
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Originally posted by JTS2005@Jun 15 2005, 02:02 PM
yea i am very anxious and i know josh is as well!!  i cant stand having parts just sit in my apt. :biggrin:
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I've had mine since before ZDayz :headshake: :headshake:

Like I said, it's long overdue.

Still need to get my fender rolled on driver's side before I can really test them out.
 

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Don't the HKS or maybe it's the Hotchkis bars need a collar mounted on them to prevent them from shifting "side-to-side" in their mounts? I've heard of people getting this collar from McMaster Carr. I know the Stillen bars have this collar incorporated into the bars.

sean
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Josh or Jaysen might know the answer to this. I still have to find some collars. Not sure what they're for...but Josh mentioned making some collars for them.
 

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I think jaysen didnt upload all the pics, but anyways, we used ~1.5" diameter rubber plumbing clamps. We then cut them to fit and placed them in the proper locations to prevent the sway bars from sliding. I dont know if any clamps are necessary, but its nice to know the sways are staying put.

The ones from McMaster will run you about 35-40$ The ones i used from home depot were $7 total.

[url='http://www.350z-tech.com/images/howtos/hotchkis/001.jpg'][/url]
[url='http://www.350z-tech.com/images/howtos/hotchkis/002.jpg'][/url]
[url='http://www.350z-tech.com/images/howtos/hotchkis/003.jpg'][/url]
[url='http://www.350z-tech.com/images/howtos/hotchkis/004.jpg'][/url]
[url='http://www.350z-tech.com/images/howtos/hotchkis/005.jpg'][/url]
[url='http://www.350z-tech.com/images/howtos/hotchkis/008.jpg'][/url]
 

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Josh and Jaysens clamp idea works well, I used fernco fittings as they seem to be a stiffer material and "may" hold up better. After exhaustive testing this evening I can see no slippage in the sways. :)
I was rather surprised that rear oem sway removal and replacement was actually very easy. It took me less than 15 minutes to pull and replace. Moving (horizontally)the oem bar to the rear of the car (next to the 90" bend in the exhaust plumbing)helped make removal a breeze. It took me 2 hours to get the car jacked up (nightmare with crappy ass sears jackstands), but after that the front and rear install took a total of about 50 minutes. What seemed to make bolt removal easy was the flexible head ratchet with a adjustable handle length I bought from Home Depot. Extending the handle I had a much better lever and therefore easy time applying the right amount of force to the nuts and bolts. I would highly recommend you spend the 20 bucks for the ratchet and 4 bucks on a deepwell 14 mm socket (for the nuts attatched to the studs on the support bracket).

Link to ratchet
http://www.homedepot.com/prel80/HDUS/EN_US...01145-Homedepot
 

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Originally posted by TOYKILLA@Jul 3 2005, 09:54 PM

fillup, what is your avatar? celery?
[snapback]126171[/snapback]​


Sigmund the sea monster from a sid and marty croft show. But he does go well with blue cheese.
 

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Originally posted by fillup+Jul 4 2005, 10:32 AM-->
<!--QuoteBegin-TOYKILLA
@Jul 3 2005, 09:54 PM

fillup, what is your avatar? celery?
[snapback]126171[/snapback]​


Sigmund the sea monster from a sid and marty croft show. But he does go well with blue cheese.
[snapback]126318[/snapback]​



H.R. Puffinstuff?..... :doh:
 
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