Nissan 370Z Tech Forums banner

1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Lately I've been noticing the factory sub keeps turning on and off. I've heard of issues with the factory bose systems not working properly, is this a common problem? Is this a problem with the head unit or the sub or could this be a bad connection? I've also had problems with the whole system not working whenever its cold out. The headunit will be lit but there is no sound ususally until the car warms up for a bit. I'm clueless on all of this, any feedback would be great. I have a 2004 Touring with the Bose 6 CD changer with tape deck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
36,128 Posts
Could be a bad connection, check the wires going to the sub from the amp....see the tech guide (link up top) and download the service manual, you will find the location of the amp in that manual. That was the problem with mine when I had it, a loose connection. Also, the cold issue is standard on the bose units. Not sure if there is a fix or not. I fixed mine by replacing the "blows" HU with a different HU lol....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
136 Posts
QUOTE (bradcampbell @ Mar 23 2010, 09:58 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=594069
Lately I've been noticing the factory sub keeps turning on and off. I've heard of issues with the factory bose systems not working properly, is this a common problem? Is this a problem with the head unit or the sub or could this be a bad connection? I've also had problems with the whole system not working whenever its cold out. The headunit will be lit but there is no sound ususally until the car warms up for a bit. I'm clueless on all of this, any feedback would be great. I have a 2004 Touring with the Bose 6 CD changer with tape deck.
Hi!
I used to have the same problem. When the sub shuts off, try to b1tchsl4p the area where the woofer is located. If it turns back on then it's the coil in the woofer.

Just pull out the woofer and give it to someone who is experienced at fixing speakers. :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
400 Posts
I currently have the same issue. I took off the panel covering the woofer. There are 2 bollts to the left of the speaker that hold the woofer amp. Anyways, I turned the radio on and no bass. I thumped the where the 2 bolts are and whalla bass. I'm guessing my woofer amp is out. The only sure way to really figure out what is wrong is to follow the service manual and voltages. It's really hard to tell if there is a loose conection since everything uses connectors.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,254 Posts
QUOTE (zcountry @ Mar 29 2010, 09:43 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=594483
I currently have the same issue. I took off the panel covering the woofer. There are 2 bollts to the left of the speaker that hold the woofer amp. Anyways, I turned the radio on and no bass. I thumped the where the 2 bolts are and whalla bass. I'm guessing my woofer amp is out. The only sure way to really figure out what is wrong is to follow the service manual and voltages. It's really hard to tell if there is a loose conection since everything uses connectors.
I thought the Bose amp was in the trunk for some reason?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
400 Posts
QUOTE (IDrm350 @ Mar 30 2010, 01:29 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=594514
I thought the Bose amp was in the trunk for some reason?
There is one in the trunk as well. The one in the trunk is the speaker amp, and the one with the woofer is the woofer amp. They work with each other somehow though. It really blose getting to the speaker amp to check any connections. I had to take half the interior panels out just to get to it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
I may try to mess with the sub tomorrow morning. I've been noticing now about 5 seconds after the car starts I hear a pop from the sub. Any thoughts?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
28 Posts
I've read on other forums to insert cardboard between a relay on the sub amp board(located toward the center of the car beside the sub). I've tried this with temporary luck. I then resoldered the relay to the board thinking a broken solder connection. The solder connections looked good prior. Still did not fix the problem. I could thump the relay and the sub would work for a moment or two.
Fix: Replace the amp or...
Replace the relay on the board or...
Bypass the relay(short the two contacts that normally short when the relay is energized) or...
As I did. I removed the amp then removed the metal shield then I took a small pocket knife and pried the grey plastic cover carful not to break the small relay within. The relay contacts are simply dirty. It is not a conventional relay with somewhat exposed contacts I could not clean them with a contact burnisher or small file. I used deox. Radio sells it. A small aerosol can of "deox-it". It is a contact cleaner. Just douse the relay with a quick spray. Leave the plastic cover in the trash can. Leave the metal shield from around the amp circuit board off to keep the relay from shorting to it and your done. Full time non cutting out bass.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
28 Posts
Mine quit again. This time I removed the relay and bypassed it. The relay has battery power to it full time. The audio head unit energizes the relay turning on the amp. Bypassing would put power to the amp full time. I replaced the amps fuse, number 17 15amp fuse with a blown fuse, tied the non power side of the fuse to the non power side of the cigar lighter fuse and changed the cigar lighter fuse from a 10 to a 20amp since I also power another accessory from that fuse with a wire wrapped on the non power side of the cigar fuse. The cigar fuse is switched from the ignition so now my amp only comes on with the ignition switch. Here are a few pictures of the relay removed, the bypass wire and the jumper on fuse 17. If I had left a good fuse in fuse 17 fuse holder the amp would be powered full time and could drain the battery. The jumper pic is a bit blurry but there are five pins that went to the relay, three on the left, two on the right, the bottom right goes to the center left. A simple fix.



 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top