Nissan 370Z Tech Forums banner
1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
81 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
so I get this loud clunking noise when I'm driving real slow. I thought it was just a busted exhaust hanger, but turns out it is the rear control arm bushings are loose and when the car is under little load they clunk around a lot. The sound is really annoying and I would really like to fix this issue. Which aftermarket control arms are good out there? Will a new control arm bushing kit alleviate this problem?

Also,
I'd like to lower my car more. I have JIC coilovers, however I'm almost positive I will need to buy a camber kit if I do this. Or atleast that is probably the best thing to do. Any recommendations for nice camber kits?

Thanks,
Adam B.

pic for views
screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt='Click here to open new window';}" onmouseover="if(this.resized) this.style.cursor='hand';" onclick="if(this.resized) {window.open('http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v131/MRballer337/1514141317.jpg');}" />
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
12,469 Posts
On the rear camber issue with a lowered suspension...you can get the SPC toe bolts and Stillen rear camber kit. From what I've read on the forums this combination will get you pretty close to spec camber and allow toe adjustment for the rear.

Hotchkis ditched their camber kit, and I don't think the 350EVO kit will allow toe adjustment.

The SPC fix is not expensive..the Stillen kit is pricey.

There may be some other fixes for lowered Z's that I haven't found yet...many owners seem to be willing to accept accelerated treadwear loss on the rear tires given the costs involved.

hth
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
81 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Originally posted by KShep@Jul 23 2005, 08:09 PM
On the rear camber issue with a lowered suspension...you can get the SPC toe bolts and Stillen rear camber kit. From what I've read on the forums this combination will get you pretty close to spec camber and allow toe adjustment for the rear.

Hotchkis ditched their camber kit, and I don't think the 350EVO kit will allow toe adjustment.

The SPC fix is not expensive..the Stillen kit is pricey.

There may be some other fixes for lowered Z's that I haven't found yet...many owners seem to be willing to accept accelerated treadwear loss on the rear tires given the costs involved.

hth
[snapback]136297[/snapback]​


You've been a great deal of help thus far since I've been on the forums here. I greatly appreciate anything you can throw out for me. I'll look into the camber kits and toe bolts to better suit this issue.

I'm not quite sure why I am having this abnoxiously loud clunking issue with the rear control arms... possibly the upgraded wheels and tires, but I don't think this is by any means normal. I'd rather not spend $450 on a control arm bushing kit that I don't even know if it will cure the problem and if by chance I don't have to. Anyone else have any suggestions or ideas?

I might take the car to the dealer, but odds are they won't even look at it.

BTW, Kshep -- what rear spoiler do you have on your Z? That's real nice looking :werd: it's almost 4am lol time for sleep!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
12,469 Posts
Rear spolier is the Data Systems Illusion...available at Z1 Performance auto online, among other places. Thanks for the kind words.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
81 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Originally posted by ALLIANCE247@Aug 4 2005, 03:17 PM
Mod EDIT**
Please do not  make posts like this unless you are a sponsor. Please contact our admins if interested
[snapback]141741[/snapback]​



HUH??
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,333 Posts
Someone, probably a vendor, posted about rear camber arms for sale, while sometimes it seems like a good way to sell something, especially when it would help for the situation at hand, it is not allowed until they are a registered sponsor for the website.

I have a question for you, have you had an alignment done recently? Maybe before you go out and buy something, you can check to see what your current alignment looks like right now and then proceed. If you have already done so then you can obviously get what you need. My personal setup is using the kinetix rear camber and toe rods. They function well, are low on cost and very strong(I haven't broken one yet). It would eliminate any misalignment and provide you with all the adjustment you would need if you want to lower your car even more in the future. Also, you might already know this but, if you do get aftermarket rear rods, once you install them make sure the first time you drive the car is when you are going straight to a car shop to have an alignment done and don't drive it at all until that is completed.

If that loose bolt is definately the cause of your problem, then all it would take is tightening it up, if you get an alignment done they will take care of this for you and maybe eliminate any tire tread loss. But if they tell you that they can't completely take out all of the camber necessary to bring your tires back into alignment, then you should buy the rods, and as I mentioned before, kinetix sells a great set. There are also other things out there, like as mentioned above, I think stillen sells a bolt kit that allows for more camber adjustment, but in your case it might not be enough. Food for thought.

If you are interested. www.kinetixracing.com
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,333 Posts
Another idea to a clunking noise might be that your suspension is loose. You recently installed the JIC coilovers right?

The upper mounting points of the strut where it is bolted to the car might be loose. It has happened to me before when I installed my tein flex suspension. You won't be able to tell unless you jack up the car and remove the rear tire. Then check to see if the nuts are tight on the bolts. If they are not, then most likely this is your problem and it is not the rear camber rods.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
81 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Originally posted by Zxrage@Aug 4 2005, 09:41 PM
Someone, probably a vendor, posted about rear camber arms for sale, while sometimes it seems like a good way to sell something, especially when it would help for the situation at hand, it is not allowed until they are a registered sponsor for the website.

I have a question for you, have you had an alignment done recently?  Maybe before you go out and buy something, you can check to see what your current alignment looks like right now and then proceed.  If you have already done so then you can obviously get what you need.  My personal setup is using the kinetix rear camber and toe rods.  They function well, are low on cost and very strong(I haven't broken one yet).  It would eliminate any misalignment and provide you with all the adjustment you would need if you want to lower your car even more in the future.  Also, you might already know this but, if you do get aftermarket rear rods, once you install them make sure the first time you drive the car is when you are going straight to a car shop to have an alignment done and don't drive it at all until that is completed.

If that loose bolt is definately the cause of your problem, then all it would take is tightening it up, if you get an alignment done they will take care of this for you and maybe eliminate any tire tread loss.  But if they tell you that they can't completely take out all of the camber necessary to bring your tires back into alignment, then you should buy the rods, and as I mentioned before, kinetix sells a great set.  There are also other things out there, like as mentioned above, I think stillen sells a bolt kit that allows for more camber adjustment, but in your case it might not be enough.  Food for thought. 

If you are interested.  www.kinetixracing.com
[snapback]141862[/snapback]​


Thanks for your response. I have yet to get the car aligned. It is definitely off alignment just from the drift I get when going straight and letting the steering wheel free. I will go out and see what I can do with the alignment first before I proceed to buying anything. I'm really looking to get my suspension setup done properly, however those aftermarket camber kits and toe rods are expensive!! I'd like to save my tires and improve my handling characteristics as much as possible. I know there is a median between looks and performance functionality when lowering your car, and that is exactly what I'm looking to do, find the median. I would like to lower the front of my car a little more as the rear is sitting about a 3/4 inch lower than the front right now.

Now, my question for you is... Are you using any aftermarket camber and or toe rods for the front? If not, is their a good reason why not to? I'd figure if the car is lowered pretty low, both the front and rear would need to be accommodated with ajustable toe arms and a front camber kit as well, am I right? Are toe rods another name for control arm bushings, or are they completely different? I'm assuming they are different, but I just wanted to clarify. I am willing to pay the extra $$ if need be to get this done correctly.

As far as my "control arm bushings" making the noises, I'm almost certain it is just that. I have hoisted the car up and was messing around with the bushings above the sway bar links and they are making the same distinct noises when I hit them as when I drive the car. The coilovers were installed roughly 1 year ago. I just don't see what would cause the control arm bushings to be making that clunking noise. Could it be the lowering of the car? Would purchasing adjustable control arm bushings solve this issue? I don't think their is anything to "tighten" as the bushings are enclosed within a bracket or casing of some sort surrounding them. (it's hard to explain, but they are supposed to move a bit when the car has applied a distinguished amount of load to the suspension. Do you get what I'm saying hopefully?

Thanks for the replies guys!
Adam B.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,333 Posts
Well for the front, the linkage is different, you only have an adjustable front A-arm. This is one from Kinetix. It is the only mod you will need to perform a front-end alignment.
[attachmentid=9908]

This picture is of the rear rods, the one on the left is the camber rod and the one on the right is the traction rod(toe rod). Both of these rods work in conjunction and need to be adjusted to perform your rear alignment. You should really get both rods because if you leave the stock fixed length traction rod, then you will have very little room to work with when trying to do the rear alignment.
[attachmentid=9907]

Is there any way you can circle the bushing in the picture above that is causing your noise and post it back up for us to see?

Also, about finding the median for cost and drivability. Let me put it this way, would you rather drive around with a mis-aligned car and have to buy new rear tires twice as often, or get a good quality set of rods that will correct the alignment for lowering the car and then all will be well. I posted a link to kinetix before and I am using all of their adjustable arms, front and rear, for me it was the best bang for the buck. But feel free to shop around and find out for yourself.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
81 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Originally posted by Zxrage@Aug 10 2005, 05:40 PM
Well for the front, the linkage is different, you only have an adjustable front A-arm.  This is one from Kinetix.  It is the only mod you will need to perform a front-end alignment.
[attachmentid=9908]

This picture is of the rear rods, the one on the left is the camber rod and the one on the right is the traction rod(toe rod).  Both of these rods work in conjunction and need to be adjusted to perform your rear alignment.  You should really get both rods because if you leave the stock fixed length traction rod, then you will have very little room to work with when trying to do the rear alignment. 
[attachmentid=9907]

Is there any way you can circle the bushing in the picture above that is causing your noise and post it back up for us to see? 

Also, about finding the median for cost and drivability.  Let me put it this way, would you rather drive around with a mis-aligned car and have to buy new rear tires twice as often, or get a good quality set of rods that will correct the alignment for lowering the car and then all will be well.  I posted a link to kinetix before and I am using all of their adjustable arms, front and rear, for me it was the best bang for the buck.  But feel free to shop around and find out for yourself.
[snapback]144352[/snapback]​


screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt='Click here to open new window';}" onmouseover="if(this.resized) this.style.cursor='hand';" onclick="if(this.resized) {window.open('http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v131/MRballer337/post-313-1123720236_thumb.jpg');}" />

I'm almost certain it's where I noted above. I'm willing to spend the $$ to have this setup done right in order to save some tires and hopefully stiffin the chasis up a bit more. Thanks again for your help! I know Cusco sells those A-arms as well... but everything together will run close to $1500 lol! If my allignment is off more than 2 degrees, I'm going to lower the car flush with the fenders (rear is almost at that point already), and then order a rear camber kit, and toe arms to accomidate the rear and buy the A-arms for the front as well. If I am off 1 or 2 degrees off spec I will probably just leave everything as is and keep the car at the same ride height. Would it make a big difference at this point to buy all that stuff if I am only 1 or 2 degrees off? Logically thinking, I would doubt so.

Let me ask you this... If I were just to do the rear camber kit, and toe arms, but leave the front completely stock, woulnd't that pretty much defeat the purpose of trying to fix the alignment issue all together?

Bottom line is, all this stuff is pricey for what it may seem to be. I'm sure they do worlds of difference to the chasis, but if my car is aligned within 1 or 2 degrees of spec would you still recommend getting all this stuff or no?

Thanks,
Adam B
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,333 Posts
You might want to check those prices again...

complete package

Try $700.00, which is less than a set of new tires.

As for what you circled in teh picture, I can't think of what would be loose under there except maybe the little rod that connects to the sway bar. I don't know what else would be contributing to your noise.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
81 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Originally posted by Zxrage@Aug 11 2005, 07:07 AM
You might want to check those prices again...

complete package

Try $700.00, which is less than a set of new tires.

As for what you circled in teh picture, I can't think of what would be loose under there except maybe the little rod that connects to the sway bar.  I don't know what else would be contributing to your noise.
[snapback]144471[/snapback]​



Oh wow... Well that's a great price. I was looking at all the individual stillin and cusco products which seemed to add up pretty significantly to that price you found. Anyway, I don't know how I'm going to fix this issue, I can't take it to the dealer because of my coilovers, but I'll have to talk to more people and try and figure it out. Thanks again for your 2 cents, it was a great help!

Adam B.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,728 Posts
Originally posted by MRballer350z+Aug 11 2005, 10:34 AM-->
<!--QuoteBegin-Zxrage
@Aug 11 2005, 07:07 AM
You might want to check those prices again...

complete package

Try $700.00, which is less than a set of new tires.

As for what you circled in teh picture, I can't think of what would be loose under there except maybe the little rod that connects to the sway bar. I don't know what else would be contributing to your noise.
[snapback]144471[/snapback]​



Oh wow... Well that's a great price. I was looking at all the individual stillin and cusco products which seemed to add up pretty significantly to that price you found. Anyway, I don't know how I'm going to fix this issue, I can't take it to the dealer because of my coilovers, but I'll have to talk to more people and try and figure it out. Thanks again for your 2 cents, it was a great help!

Adam B.
[snapback]144582[/snapback]​


:cheers: You CAN go back to the dealer under the extended warranty for FRONT end alignment IF you put the stock shocks, springs back....(P.I.T.A....)

The Kintix f/r kit is very tempting at that price point! :drool:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
81 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Originally posted by lionkiller+Aug 11 2005, 10:57 AM-->
Originally posted by [email protected] 11 2005, 10:34 AM
<!--QuoteBegin-Zxrage
@Aug 11 2005, 07:07 AM
You might want to check those prices again...

complete package

Try $700.00, which is less than a set of new tires.

As for what you circled in teh picture, I can't think of what would be loose under there except maybe the little rod that connects to the sway bar. I don't know what else would be contributing to your noise.
[snapback]144471[/snapback]​



Oh wow... Well that's a great price. I was looking at all the individual stillin and cusco products which seemed to add up pretty significantly to that price you found. Anyway, I don't know how I'm going to fix this issue, I can't take it to the dealer because of my coilovers, but I'll have to talk to more people and try and figure it out. Thanks again for your 2 cents, it was a great help!

Adam B.
[snapback]144582[/snapback]​


:cheers: You CAN go back to the dealer under the extended warranty for FRONT end alignment IF you put the stock shocks, springs back....(P.I.T.A....)

The Kintix f/r kit is very tempting at that price point! :drool:
[snapback]144606[/snapback]​

I wouldn't even bother with that. Plus, bought the car with the JIC coilovers and did not get an additional set of factory springs/struts/shocks. That is definitely a tempting buy for that price though.
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top