Radio Dash Kit
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297 Posts
I actually used the Metra kit for my install. Couldn't find it anywhere locally. I ended up posting a "help me" topic over at 350zfrenzy.com and within a day I had sopmeone over in the USA purchase one for me and send it over. Works out way cheaper than having the retailler ship it at their costs!
i bit the bullet and booked my car in for Aug 15th
this is going to be a huge install, im still very very nervous about leaving my car there for a good 3 weeks and having it completely gutted inside
Whitezed/PerthZ are there any tips you can offer me, any problems u guys came across in ur install that i should be weary of?
This is what im putting in the car;
Clarion VRX935VD
Clarion TV Tuner
Clarion DTS/Dolby 5.1 Processor
JBL GTi 6 1/2" splits (160W RMS)
JBL Power Series 6 1/2" rears (70W RMS)
Alpine Type X 10" sub (1000W RMS)
Clarion SRK5 centre channel speaker
Pioneer ND-BC1 rear camera (im stressing over them cutting into the bumper)
JBL P80.4 bridged to 160x2 running front speakers
JBL P80.2 running rear speakers
JBL P180.2 bridged to 360x1 running sub
Dynomat everywhere
Optima Yellow Top Battery
Stinger 0 gauge power cable
Audison RCAs
Monster Cable speaker wire
this is going to be a huge install, im still very very nervous about leaving my car there for a good 3 weeks and having it completely gutted inside
Whitezed/PerthZ are there any tips you can offer me, any problems u guys came across in ur install that i should be weary of?
This is what im putting in the car;
Clarion VRX935VD
Clarion TV Tuner
Clarion DTS/Dolby 5.1 Processor
JBL GTi 6 1/2" splits (160W RMS)
JBL Power Series 6 1/2" rears (70W RMS)
Alpine Type X 10" sub (1000W RMS)
Clarion SRK5 centre channel speaker
Pioneer ND-BC1 rear camera (im stressing over them cutting into the bumper)
JBL P80.4 bridged to 160x2 running front speakers
JBL P80.2 running rear speakers
JBL P180.2 bridged to 360x1 running sub
Dynomat everywhere
Optima Yellow Top Battery
Stinger 0 gauge power cable
Audison RCAs
Monster Cable speaker wire
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297 Posts
I'm sure all will go well TPI. I can't give you much advice as I did my install myself over a couple of week-ends and used the stock speaker wiring (I'll probably get rid of that shortly).
When I was working on the car however, I was amazed at how easy it was to pull everything apart and get back together again. The main thing your installer needs to be carefull of is the "ribbon" wiring that sits behind the air conditioning controls - it's very flimsy. You can see it hanging down in front of the controller in this pic (right next to the aerial lead)
When I was working on the car however, I was amazed at how easy it was to pull everything apart and get back together again. The main thing your installer needs to be carefull of is the "ribbon" wiring that sits behind the air conditioning controls - it's very flimsy. You can see it hanging down in front of the controller in this pic (right next to the aerial lead)
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thanks for the tip dude, i am a bit worried about everything going back rattle free, especially the plastic against plastic parts, i have no idea what the Nissan quality is like
ive got the kits in front of me and cant work out how a heavy deck is to bolt onto the trimplate using plasyic brackets? Do u get any rattles with the dash kit? Did u do anything extra when securing the deck?
ive got the kits in front of me and cant work out how a heavy deck is to bolt onto the trimplate using plasyic brackets? Do u get any rattles with the dash kit? Did u do anything extra when securing the deck?
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297 Posts
Automatic :shiftdrive:
Joined
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297 Posts
I used all the stock mounting points and didn't have any problems. No rattles either
TPIACE,
Are they boxing the sub? If so will it be removable in the event that you need to get to the fuel pump? I can tell you now that you can get an approx .7 cu box in there that is still removable if they build it correctly (took me about a week to build it). Also they will need to cut a bracket that is in the location of the factory sub to make more room. So don't worry when they pull out the angle grinder.
One other problem that you may run into is the rear speakers as the depth is not an issue but how far the speakers protrude from the mounting surface as there is not much space between the plastic speaker grill that is moulded in the back and the front face of the speaker
How many rca's will you be running to the deck? I have currently 6 rca's running behind the BCM and can tell you there is not much room for more.
Where are they going to install the centre channel?
Where are they putting the 3 amps? I understand the theory of different power sources for speakers but wouldn’t it be more efficient to get a decent 5 channel amp and hide it the glove box or something.
What’s going to run the centre channel? Will you be piggy backing off the left and right channel of the front amp
Make sure they have the windows down when they disconnect the battery as you need to go through the window calibration sequence after re-connection.
Not a fan of JBL speakers and amps but each to their own.
Give us some photos of the completed install and best of luck with it
Are they boxing the sub? If so will it be removable in the event that you need to get to the fuel pump? I can tell you now that you can get an approx .7 cu box in there that is still removable if they build it correctly (took me about a week to build it). Also they will need to cut a bracket that is in the location of the factory sub to make more room. So don't worry when they pull out the angle grinder.
One other problem that you may run into is the rear speakers as the depth is not an issue but how far the speakers protrude from the mounting surface as there is not much space between the plastic speaker grill that is moulded in the back and the front face of the speaker
How many rca's will you be running to the deck? I have currently 6 rca's running behind the BCM and can tell you there is not much room for more.
Where are they going to install the centre channel?
Where are they putting the 3 amps? I understand the theory of different power sources for speakers but wouldn’t it be more efficient to get a decent 5 channel amp and hide it the glove box or something.
What’s going to run the centre channel? Will you be piggy backing off the left and right channel of the front amp
Make sure they have the windows down when they disconnect the battery as you need to go through the window calibration sequence after re-connection.
Not a fan of JBL speakers and amps but each to their own.
Give us some photos of the completed install and best of luck with it
i just bought the last piece of the puzzle cheap cheap off ebay
a Dynamat Xteme bulk kit, 36 square feet should just about do it :lmfao:
Rizk the sub is being boxed under the strut brace and will foul up against the parcel shelf, and will be glassed on both sides for fully sick veiwing of the voice coil
The amps i took out of the Alfa, they have been running hard for 3 years and still work in A1 condition. A 5 channel amp wouldnt give me the power split i need to run the front speakers to their full potential, as they can take 160W RMS, whereas the rears take half that. Ive had Focal, Boston and MB Quart speakers in past cars, and still love my top of the range JBLs, especially runing of JBL amps. Each to their own, ur right, the JBLs for me are a real mid range bassy tough speaker. They take a pounding. I had a pair of 2way 3.5"s MBs running my centre channel on the Alfa and they were good for a high vocal roll, but a little too sharp to be heard day in day out. I was going to go for a Rockford sub, but the decision on the Alpine Type X was made pretty much because of the good experience i had with an Alpine Type R, and the fact its a very large deep coiled sub, so will fill the box nicely from the front to the back. A narrow depth sub would look weird under the strut brace as it wouldnt extend past it and leave a big gap to the back of the box
The amps are being mounted in a false floor, so bye bye spare tyre. My deck being a DVD deck has a seperate control module that is mounted away from the deck, so under the seat, behind the dash, etc where all the power/ignition wires come out of. The Dolby processor takes all the RCAs for each channel, and that too is a hideaway unit, so there wont be an issue with space. All that comes out of the deck is a CeNet cable and really thin wire for the Dolby processor
The Clarion centre channel comes with its own hideaway amp, its a half din size with 5 speakers inside, and will be flush mounted under the deck in either the doule din Metra or AI kit (im painting both up and will see on the day which fits best). The RCAs then go straight to the centre channel out on the Dolby Processor and all the 5.1 features/settings are controlled via the deck.
Im drawing up a diagram now just to see how it looks and to get an idea where i can mount the various bits and pieces. Ill post it up when its done
What do u mean by resetting the windows? Do you mean how they drop when u open the door? Will the installer have to do anything there, or will the windows sort themself out when u reconnect the battery?
a Dynamat Xteme bulk kit, 36 square feet should just about do it :lmfao:
Rizk the sub is being boxed under the strut brace and will foul up against the parcel shelf, and will be glassed on both sides for fully sick veiwing of the voice coil
The amps i took out of the Alfa, they have been running hard for 3 years and still work in A1 condition. A 5 channel amp wouldnt give me the power split i need to run the front speakers to their full potential, as they can take 160W RMS, whereas the rears take half that. Ive had Focal, Boston and MB Quart speakers in past cars, and still love my top of the range JBLs, especially runing of JBL amps. Each to their own, ur right, the JBLs for me are a real mid range bassy tough speaker. They take a pounding. I had a pair of 2way 3.5"s MBs running my centre channel on the Alfa and they were good for a high vocal roll, but a little too sharp to be heard day in day out. I was going to go for a Rockford sub, but the decision on the Alpine Type X was made pretty much because of the good experience i had with an Alpine Type R, and the fact its a very large deep coiled sub, so will fill the box nicely from the front to the back. A narrow depth sub would look weird under the strut brace as it wouldnt extend past it and leave a big gap to the back of the box
The amps are being mounted in a false floor, so bye bye spare tyre. My deck being a DVD deck has a seperate control module that is mounted away from the deck, so under the seat, behind the dash, etc where all the power/ignition wires come out of. The Dolby processor takes all the RCAs for each channel, and that too is a hideaway unit, so there wont be an issue with space. All that comes out of the deck is a CeNet cable and really thin wire for the Dolby processor
The Clarion centre channel comes with its own hideaway amp, its a half din size with 5 speakers inside, and will be flush mounted under the deck in either the doule din Metra or AI kit (im painting both up and will see on the day which fits best). The RCAs then go straight to the centre channel out on the Dolby Processor and all the 5.1 features/settings are controlled via the deck.
Im drawing up a diagram now just to see how it looks and to get an idea where i can mount the various bits and pieces. Ill post it up when its done
What do u mean by resetting the windows? Do you mean how they drop when u open the door? Will the installer have to do anything there, or will the windows sort themself out when u reconnect the battery?
Well there goes my assumption that you were building a stealth system :biggrin: I should of figured this out with the pics of the dynamat in the boot 
With the windows you need to reset the position for the 10mm drop when you open the door. You will find that when you disconnect the battery and reconnect and then rollup the window while the door is open and then close the door the glass will hit the top sill.
Its just a heads up so that the installers dont destroy your beautiful polish job.
All sounds cool wish I was in Melb to see the finish product
With the windows you need to reset the position for the 10mm drop when you open the door. You will find that when you disconnect the battery and reconnect and then rollup the window while the door is open and then close the door the glass will hit the top sill.
Its just a heads up so that the installers dont destroy your beautiful polish job.
All sounds cool wish I was in Melb to see the finish product
hahaha yeh, no stealth for me......itll be all excess :shiftdrive:
ive never really bought in to the stealth deal to be honest. If someone breaks into the car and helps themselves, my insurer shouts me brand new components
i think i get what u mean about the windows. I should shut the door, then wind the window up? Just dont put the window up with the door open yeh?
ive never really bought in to the stealth deal to be honest. If someone breaks into the car and helps themselves, my insurer shouts me brand new components
i think i get what u mean about the windows. I should shut the door, then wind the window up? Just dont put the window up with the door open yeh?
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