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NEED OPINIONS ELECTRICAL SYSTEM FAILURE? FRIED ECU?
2003 NISSAN 350Z
Owned 3 years, light modifications all added in the first two years, including cold air intake, adjustable coil overs, pipes and exhaust, stereo system with two 10s/Amp/control center and appropriate battery. Everything has ran more than satisfactory for 3rd year or so until THE EVENT.
My starter pooped out on me one day at the gas station, so I changed it and drove around a few minutes, everything was fine until the next day I took it out for some fun and 30 minutes in... POP engine shuts off, smoke from under hood. After investigation it was clear my wire management needed work. The wire providing the starter with power was melted to the exhaust pipe along with a melted ground explaining the smoke. After replacing the starter for the second time and the corresponding wires. I was left with strong cranking but no start. ): I am devastated. I can say I've learned my lesson on wire management.
I by no means am a mechanic, I can do a few things but it's all for fun., I can get it to turn over with starter fluid but it dies as soon as you cut it.
Fuses and relays are okay, fuel pump primes, spark is there. I really think I've fried my ECU.
I've pulled 3 codes
P1212 (ABS actuator electrical unti) -i assume its shorted or break in wire. [Not yet looked into it]
U1001 (check engine light)-no ****
P0340( CPS A, bank 1 circuit fail) replaced sensor[no help]
I've bought a multimeter and am learning how to use it to check the harness connected to the sensor. I will be checking that on my next days off. Im sure I am in deep Doodoo with this one but I'm not giving up. I just want some opinions from veterans of the 350 community. any questions on something I wasn't clear about please ask. HELP ME
 

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Welcome and sorry to hear of your troubles. The good news is your ECM is still functioning, as it still boots up and is communicating via the OBD2 port. Bad news is you may need to take your Z to a Nissan dealership and have them scan ECM function via a CONSULT3 unit ($15K diagnostic tool). Usual cost is an hour of diagnostic work at shop rates. There's no way any of us helping behind a keyboard will be able to thoroughly fix this without laying hands on the Z.
 

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Thank you brother man, I appreciate your time. That is what i fear, if the next few steps I take all come back clear, ill be left no choice but to visit the dreaded D word (dealership) I'll be here every time I work on it to keep tabs on where I am. I've become familiar with the multimeter and will be checking continuity in the wire harness and compare the D/C voltage each ECU pinout puts out to the voltage that makes it through the harness. Hopefully discover a broken or short circuit. Also checking body and engine grounds. Tips and tricks will be greatly valued and remembered.
 
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