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I have a head unit with built in cross over and I just got done doing the wiring for my Infinity Basslink to install behind the driver seat. (hope to have it hooked up tonight.)

I don't have a lot of money right now but I am thinking about replacing at least the front speakers.

My head unit power 50w max...

Any recommendations on what to get without breaking the $150 mark?

Or should I just save up about $225 and get the infinity kappa perf comp. speakers if you think this is really worth it.
 

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Dont go by the headunit max power (50w).. The only power rating that matters is the RMS which is probably around 23-25watt. Max power ratings are only there to sell products.

Infinity Kappa or Kappa Perfects are great speakers.
 

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Rando,
Any experience with the CDT's? That seems like an awesome deal. What I am wondering is mainly mouting rings (spacers). Also, with any speaker what impressions anyone else has had with tweeter placement in stock location vs. something near the kick panels.
 

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Originally posted by bjr@Jul 8 2005, 04:14 PM
Rando,
Any experience with the CDT's? That seems like an awesome deal. What I am wondering is mainly mouting rings (spacers). Also, with any speaker what impressions anyone else has had with tweeter placement in stock location vs. something near the kick panels.
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Sorry for the late reply. I've owned two sets of CDTs. Eurosport 620 and the now the new Eurosports 7 series. Both sets with the silk tweeters since I don't like the harshness/brightness of metal domes. Both sets are fantastic! They are so smooth that you find yourself playing them incredibly loud without even realizing it.

Now the one's I recommended for Tsur based on the budget of $150 are the entry level line of CDT components. Don't be alarmed about the entry level comment. Check some of the car audio forums around and you'll find CDTs have a very strong following and the CLs get awesome reviews.

The non-euro framed CDTs do require alittle more mounting depth than most other component sets. You will definitely need to make new mounting rings, or at least I did. Stock plastic mounting ring was not deep enough.

I've had DLS Ultimate Iridum 6.3 in custome kicks and didn't like them............until I disconnected the 3" midrange. 6.5" woofer was mounted in the stock door location and the 3" mid and tweeter were mounted in kick panels. Once the mid was out of the loop, the DLS setup sounded very good. However, I did add a set of additional tweeters in the stock sail panels since the sound stage was too low otherwise.

If money is an issue, skip the kick panels and buy better speakers!

Happy to answer any more questions.....
 

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Rando,
Thanks for the response. I'll have to decide what to do with the tweeters on my own I guess because opinions vary greatly. I don't think I can go wrong with these CDT's as I had not planned on getting new front speakers right away to complete my system due to money. But I know that I've read enough times now that the speakers alone can turn even the stock base system into a listenable experience and I don't think I will ever find a better performance for the price.

It seems that most people agree that the stock tweeter location alone is a bad place to have your only tweeter. I think I could figure out some kind of mouting for these CDT tweeters in the stock kick panels. I was looking at that this morning a little. I'll just hook them up when I get them and try different mouting options. Do you think the stock tweeters crossed over right would bring up the soundstage if CDT's in the kicks are not to my liking? Or would I absolutely have to get another tweeter to replace the factory for a second set of tweeters?

The one big question I thought of yesterday though that I forgot is if the CDT crossovers are physically much different size than Boston, Alpine, etc. so I know if I can put the CDT crossovers inside the door if for some reason I decide to mount the CDT tweeters in the stock location?

Also it sounds like you have mouted some of these before. You mentioned they are a little deep but if I make my own MDF mouting spacers there is still enough room to mount them without modifying the door and they still clear the window??

thanks for your help
 

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The reason I have heard most often for people not liking tweeters in the sail panels is harshness/brightness. You won't have that problem with CDTs if you go with the silk tweeters.

Definitely try the tweeters in several locations when you do the install. Have someone position the passenger side tweeter while you move the driver side tweeter around. You'll be amazed at the difference location makes to imaging height and even depth, especially if you fire the tweeters across the front glass.

I'm not a big fan of mounting crossovers in the doors. There's plenty of room under the seats if you don't want to run the extra wiring all the way back to the cubby area behind the driver's seat.

Both sets of my Eurosports required thicker spacers than the stock plastic one. Once you find the right thickness to clear the window, just try a trial fit with the door panel minus the speaker grill. It's tight but will work.

Good luck with your project!
 

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I just ordered a set of CDT's. I sure am glad you guys started talking about this or I would have installed my system with stock speakers for awhile. I wasn't prepared to spend $400+ to get a good set after I spent money on everything else to add a sub/amp etc. Thanks!
 

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CDT's imho are the best bet for the money out there. Very linear and smooth sound with a great crossover. As for the stock tweeter location, I installed the tweeters in the stock location and I was very pleased with the results. It required a bit of tuning but the payoff was great. I had a wide open soundstage with nice off axis response and good depth.

One very easy way to try out tweeter location is to buy the blue tack material they sell at hobby shops. this material can be stuck to the back of the tweeter making for easy temporary placement.
 

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Did you place your crossovers in the doors then to avoid extra through the door wiring? I'm just a little nervous about putting them in there in case the window drips excessively when it rains or gets washed. Ever notice if you just wash your car and have to roll the window down how much water gets spread onto it when you roll it back up? Seals aren't perfect.
I've also been reading alot lately about component sets not supposed to be separated by more than about 10"? I know audio is highly opinionated so I wish I knew enough about acoustics to know what the best theoretical choice is for placement. Thanks for your input. I know to at least try them in the stock mirror pods to see if I like them there.
 

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My CDT's were waiting for me Friday. I spent hours in the garage Sunday getting the MDF spacer just right. They were tricky. 5 hours for the left, flipped it over, traced it and spent 20 minutes making the right. I hope the right is identical because I didn't want to take the whole door off yet or bother taking the right side off at all. Thanks for the advice. I remember seeing ads for them in magazines years ago now that I see the boxes they came in. I'm not so sure the right tweeter will fit flush with the stock kick panel since it is so shallow but hopefully the flush mount ring can be trimmed some and dyed black to blend in. I'll try the blue tack trick for awhile but am conviced they should sound best down there. If I ever get to spend any time at home I'll have some time to install everything so don't hold your breath for pictures. :lmfao:
 

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Originally posted by TOYKILLA@Jun 29 2005, 09:36 AM
Dont go by the headunit max power (50w).. The only power rating that matters is the RMS which is probably around 23-25watt.  Max power ratings are only there to sell products.

Infinity Kappa or Kappa Perfects are great speakers.
[snapback]123730[/snapback]​


+1.. i've had great experience with Kappas
 

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I put in my CDT's Sunday and they sound great. I've got the tweeters down by the woofer mounted to the white plastic thats down there in the door firing up and back. I am shocked how good they sound on the factory HU. Not as perfect as the home system but they do sound incredible. I can't wait to get the whole system in. If I get back in town at a decent hour anytime this week I may post a quick picture. I went to put them in and just couldn't see wasting the time putting them in the kicks. I could not notice much difference between there and where I ended up with them. Some experimenting may be necessary like playing with a braxial mounting bracket or something to get the soundstage a little more accurate but it is already very good. The door does block the tweeter on the opposite side of the car depending which seat you are in but doesn't seem to interfere too much with the imaging. Thanks again for the tip or I would still be listening to factory speakers for quite awhile :OMG:
thanks again to all the how-to's. The doors were actually very easy. My last vehicle sucked and was intimidated to tear the Z apart. Just be carefull and you'll do fine.
 

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:banghead: sorry
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