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I cant find any information about not using Syntrax in the 350z outside of this and another thread.

All I have heard is that Redline masks problems.
 

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Well anyway, if you check the Castrol site, they recommend a different oil for the gearbox which I am going to use!
CASTROL VMX 80 75w/80 GL4

And for the diff oil it is different to what people here are recommending for castrol:
CASTROL MULTITRAX 75/90 GL5
 

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Discussion Starter #44
QUOTE (IneedAno.plate @ Aug 3 2008, 08:31 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=548746
Well anyway, if you check the Castrol site, they recommend a different oil for the gearbox which I am going to use!
CASTROL VMX 80 75w/80 GL4

And for the diff oil it is different to what people here are recommending for castrol:
CASTROL MULTITRAX 75/90 GL5
How did you go with that gearbox oil??? Update please.. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #46
Since this thread was created i have decided to use the following oils:

Engine Oil : Royal Purple 10w - 40

Fantastic oil with instant benefits (in feel). The engine runs alot smoother on idle and revving it is alot freer. Definitely recommended.

Brake Oil : Motul RBF 660

At $45.00 per 500ml, this is some premium stuff! Rated as racing oil, but suited to street and factory components. Great oil with higher operating temps and lower wet boiling points.

Next on the list of changes are transmission (which was already changed with the replacement of my clutch) and the diff oil.

People are using different types of diff oil, so need to do more research in this.
 

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QUOTE (_ink @ Dec 24 2008, 07:59 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=563842
Since this thread was created i have decided to use the following oils:

Engine Oil : Royal Purple 10w - 40

Fantastic oil with instant benefits (in feel). The engine runs alot smoother on idle and revving it is alot freer. Definitely recommended.

Yup. I found a similar effect when running Mobil 1 15W-50 over Elf 5W-30 (same rating as the Nissan oil).

Are you sure that the difference is not just due to the difference in rating as apposed to oil quality (I.e. a more viscous oil)?

Not bagging Royal Purple, it's one of only a few true synthetic oils, just trying to understand where the performance is coming from.
 

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Discussion Starter #48
my results are just a comparison to nissan factory oil. i'm not sure where the performance is coming from, however i'm leaning towards the oil quality, not the rating.
 

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i'm about to do a service shortly and I live in perth WA. I never heard of the royal purple oil. Where can i get some?
I have some castrol 5-30W at home that is fully synthetic. Has anyone used this oil? or would recommend against it?
Whats the normal interval for gearbox and diff oil change? My car was 11,000kms on it.
 

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I get my royal purple from auto one in Wanneroo. With only 11k on your car I wouldnt worry too much about changing the diff and tranny oil yet.
 

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QUOTE (Tanny @ Dec 27 2008, 06:28 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=564015
i'm about to do a service shortly and I live in perth WA. I never heard of the royal purple oil. Where can i get some?
I have some castrol 5-30W at home that is fully synthetic. Has anyone used this oil? or would recommend against it?
Whats the normal interval for gearbox and diff oil change? My car was 11,000kms on it.

Diff Oil change is at 50k on the service manual.

There are different grades of Synthetic Oils. My Elf oil was Synthetic, but mot at the same grade as Royal Purple or Mobil 1 Track+road.

Only group 4 and 5 oils can be called Fully Synthetic. I believe (i.e. correct if wrong) Elf is Group 4, and Royal Purple + Mobil 1 is Group 5.

Royal Purple is worth the money.

My sister runs it in here little Suzuki Swift (she has a rev head husband) and loves it!

Suppliers can be found here: http://www.royalpurple.com.au/html/s04_ser...t.asp?dsb%3D135

The biggest suprise for me was how good Mobil 1 (and Royal Purple) are on the track. My oil pressure didn't rise above 4-6 00kpa on the dial as I was revving the guts out of it. I'm guessing that the oil resisted becoming more viscous at higher temps.
 

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QUOTE (Tanny @ Dec 27 2008, 01:56 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=564048
http://www.castroledge.com.au/product/product_5w30.php
this is the site of the oil i got it from, i looked in the manual at my local oil shop and it said this was recommended oil for my car. Ill give royal purple a go and let my brother use that castrol for his car as it seems to work for him.
Cheers guys.
This may be an old wives tail as it hasn't happened to me (my engine is still pretty new at 38,000km)...

When you first use a synthetic oil, you may get a bit of leakage as it can sometimes flow through worn seals that normal oils wouldn't. You may need to replace a few seals, but it'd be worth it.

Also, remember that the 5w 30 Castol or Elf oils aren't bad. The synthetic oils are just better for harder driving.
 

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Here is a clutch fluid story. My roadster has done 60k and the previous owner had the clutch fluid changed at the 40k service.
On the first real hot day of summer i go do some shopping, driving home the clutch pedal goes real spongy, it changed gears, but engagement was only cm's of the floor. Then by the time I got home its OK. Long story short turns out its some kind of heat soak and the fluid was boiling. The clutch line passes very close the exhaust system. The fix was Motul RBF600, it has a higher boiling point. Now even through the heat wave days no probs.
Thought this might be good addition to the thread.
 

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Engine: Penrite HPR 10
gearbox & diff: undecided, prob OEM

I do 5k kms engine oil changes, so strike a median with a semi-synth oil formulated by and for Australian conditions.
 

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Engine: Mobil 1 Super Syn 10-40w
Brake: Soon to be Motul RBF600

After reading some threads around here (and other forums) Mobil seems to have changed their forumla (back in 2007 - yes i know, i'm slow). Will try the Royal Purple next.
 

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Discussion Starter #58
QUOTE (pez5 @ Feb 14 2009, 03:10 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=568546
Here is a clutch fluid story. My roadster has done 60k and the previous owner had the clutch fluid changed at the 40k service.
On the first real hot day of summer i go do some shopping, driving home the clutch pedal goes real spongy, it changed gears, but engagement was only cm's of the floor. Then by the time I got home its OK. Long story short turns out its some kind of heat soak and the fluid was boiling. The clutch line passes very close the exhaust system. The fix was Motul RBF600, it has a higher boiling point. Now even through the heat wave days no probs.
Thought this might be good addition to the thread.

Same thing happenned to me Perry!

However after my switch to Motul RBF660.. It has never happened again and i have never looked back!

What are peoples suggestions for diff oil??
 

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I've settled on the following from a performance vs. cost perspective...

Engine : Castrol Edge 5w30
Have used Motul 300V 10w40 in the past, also Castrol Edge 0w40. On the street, the engine feels like it revs cleaner with the 5w30, although on the track the 5w30 seems to get about 5-10 degrees hotter than 0w40. I haven't noticed any other apparent differences between Motul and Castrol, apart from saving a heap each oil change, also comes in convenient 5L size vs. 4L tins of 300V.

Transmission : Martini 75w90
Have only used the Martini, seems to be pretty good...need to change after about 3 track days or lots of crunching and awkward shifts. Haven't really experimented or researched much about transmission oil brands.

Brakes and Clutch : Martini GS610
Moved from RBF660 to GS610, not only because it's cheaper but lasts longer. Depending on which tracks the car goes to, the GS610 lasts about 1-2 track days longer than RBF660 did. Have had no issue with overheating whilst using it in the clutch-line, but also have a Nismo braided clutch line in my car.

Differential : ATS 85w90
This is factory-specified by ATS. Have used the Martini 75w90 before but found the diff didn't hook up as nicely. Looking into Penrite 80w90 for street use and ATS for track use, as my diff specifies 3500km change intervals or 1 track day (boo!).
 
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