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My stock brakes were replaced about 1.5 months ago with Hawk HPS pads. After the replacement the brakes seemed to have a longer travel before engaging, I took it to the dealer and they said it was because of the Hawk pads. I thought nothing of it until I went to a performance driving clinic where my car was teched and they said that my brakes were soft (due to air) and they could push the pedal all the way down. So I had my brake fluid replaced with Motul 600 and my brake lines changed to Stoptech braided steel lines. However, my brakes still do not have feel as firm as before (they feel a little better than before). I still have to push the brakes farther before they engage. I usually only have to bearly touch the brakes for them to bite hard. Could the master cylinder be the problem or the Hawk brake pads? Any help would be appreciated. I've taken the car to another dealer and they said the brakes feel fine, but I know they don't react the same as they used to. I have another driving event coming up and would like to get this resolved ASAP. I am in the Bay Area if anyone can help.

Thanks,
Dave
 

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Brake fade from the pads, air bubbles in the lines. Motul is okay, I've used it before but you get the same performance out of synthetic brake fluid which costs far less. Have the dealership re-bleed the lines or get some brembo pads.
 

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I am not sure what the guy above is talking about, but I know brakes and I know those pads. You ARE having issues and it is not the Mutol.

First, do you have the stock brembos or the regular brakes? If you have the brembos, then your dealer SHOULD be smart enough to know that each caliper has TWO bleeding screws. One is on the inside and one on the outside. Second, did your dealer bleed in the correct order (rear passenger, rear driver, front passenger, front driver)? If not, that could certainly be a source of an air bubble or two.

Also, after the install, the dealer should have driven the car and tested it. Then, either you or the dealer should have "bedded" in the pads. This is a procedure of repeated braking that slowly heats up the pads and rotors and "mates" them together. You will never get proper brake torque if this was not done. If you did not do this, look up the procedure on Google and get it done.

Next, did your dealer not keep enough fluid in the reservoir when doing the bleeding procedure? If not, then air may have gotten into the master cylinder and become trapped. The master cylinder will need to be bled.

With the Hawk HPS pads, compared to stock, you should feel much greater intial bite. Also, the Hawk pads are linear, not progressive like stock. So, the harder you push, the more torque you get. With stock, the torque produced is a slow ramp-up.

As for adding the pads, lines, and Mutol, that was a great idea.

As 24boosted, maybe you should read the manual. Synthetic fluid is not good for the braking components. Furthermore, once you use synthetic, you cannot necessarily go back to regular. Furthermore, how could he have brake fade if he never left the paddock? Fade is a function of heat. Did you mean glazing??!?!

Personally, I prefer Ate (pronounced Ahh-tay) from www.raceshopper.com. It is just as good as Mutol, but half the price. It also comes in two colors, which is great for doing a full system bleed.

Also, if you are going to be tracking your car, it is a good idea to sand the rotors when you change pads. This will remove any pad material from the previous, and different set. Using a random orbit sander, go around each side of the rotor with 150 grit until each rotor shows light scuffing. This will also help when you bed in the new pads. However, this is not required for a good track day, but it can help. Oh, and Hawk HPS pads are street and light track. If you are doing longer tracking session, you are best to get a proper track pad. I use the Ferodo DS2500. However, the Hawk HPS is acceptable for autocross.

Good luck and feel free to PM me if you have any trouble.
 
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