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I took my 2006 AT to the Nissan meet at Unnatural Inc yesterday, and things just went wrong.
:xZ!o:


First my window switch stop working Friday when I was testing everything, so I had to unhook it and run the nitrous without it.
Then my UTEC went crazy on me on the Dyno.
The tuner there said it was my UTEC because my graph was all over.
Every pass looked like an earthquake was being registered on the graph instead of HP and torque.
Even with the map switch set at 0, we couldn't make a pull like it should.
The best pull was the first pass with a 75hp shot of nitrous at 289/315.
Then it just went down from there.
The last pass we made without nitrous, and it only pulled a 213/211.
He's sure it was due to the UTEC failing. It wouldn't hold steady.
So I'm going to reflash it and hope it solves the problem, or bag it and get a new one.

It was on a Dynojet;
59 degrees, 41% humidity, uncorrected: 1.00
 

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What other mods do you have on your Z with the 75 shot??? just wondering and also what the #'s have you have been putting down with it working correctly. do you have quarter mile times on it as well?

DAN
 

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What other mods do you have on your Z with the 75 shot??? just wondering and also what the #'s have you have been putting down with it working correctly. do you have quarter mile times on it as well?

DAN
This was the first time I've run it.
Only other mods are the UTEC and a CAI.

I'm removing everything and going to run it stock, and then add one thing at a time to see what happens.
I've been told it could either be the CAI restricting the air flow, or something electrically wrong with the ZEX kit maybe causing feedback.
It may even be the bad window switch since I didn't totaly disconnect it. All I did was unhook the TPS wire from it and put it back to the ZEX unit.
Pretty sure it's not the UTEC. I've been told when the UTEC goes bad, it goes out all at once.
Plus when it was on map-0, it should pass the signal through to the ECU without interference.

I'll work on it this weekend.
 

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Ok Im going to do some modding to my Z this spring and I was thinking of doing a 75 shot and headers and td exhaust and i already have a spacer and Nismo CAI so i was just wondering what I might run and or put down for power with that done. I have heard that i would most likely run high 12's with that setup

DAN
 

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I found the problem causing the poor dyno readings.
It was not the UTEC.

It was the 1-step colder spark plugs I put in last summer were fouled, and the cold air intake tubing from the velocity funnel to the air filter was bound up and choking the engine.
It was running way to rich.
 

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Here is what my dyno looked like.
Started loosing power at 5500 rpm's.


 

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So that is just with a Utec and CAI and you were running 75 shot??

My mods are Nismo CAI, Pure Plenum Spacer and Strup Headers are going to be installed in the next week or so and my XO2 exhaust is on the way... So Im thinking that when I get my headers installed im going to get a wet shot 75 kit installed.. what all do you have for you N20 setup?

Thanks

DAN
 

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QUOTE (One_Quick_Z @ Mar 14 2008, 05:45 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=506710
So that is just with a Utec and CAI and you were running 75 shot??

My mods are Nismo CAI, Pure Plenum Spacer and Strup Headers are going to be installed in the next week or so and my XO2 exhaust is on the way... So Im thinking that when I get my headers installed im going to get a wet shot 75 kit installed.. what all do you have for you N20 setup?

Thanks

DAN
I'm running the full ZEX kit including purge, bottle heater, nitrous pressure gauge, dual air/fuel gauge, 1-step colder plugs, and UTEC.
From what others said, 75 shot should have been about 306-310rwhp with this set-up.
I'm going to bump up to the 125 shot and get the UTEC re-tunned for it since I changed the CAI system.
I may have redo the map for a 150 shot if they have time, but it will only be for the drag strip.
:shiftdrive:
 

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What kind of window switch did you get?? Also I heard that you dont need to do any timeing retard, and its good to go 1 step colder plugs but you dont have to. Is that right? Other than just buying the kit and installing it.


DAN
 

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QUOTE (One_Quick_Z @ Mar 14 2008, 07:51 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=506753
What kind of window switch did you get?? Also I heard that you dont need to do any timeing retard, and its good to go 1 step colder plugs but you dont have to. Is that right? Other than just buying the kit and installing it.
DAN
It's a ZEX window switch.

You can get away without an engine management on a 75hp shot.
But by the graph, the OE computer run (Map-0) my run was at 276.61/302.08.
And on the Map-1 with a tuned UTEC, my run was 289.78/315.63.
So the tune gained 13rwhp, and it's just plain safer to use an EMS and a tune.
 

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Ahh Ok thanks for the info.. Im goin to be getting a lot of mods done to my car this spring and N20 was one of them but it just might be on the back burner for now until I get a uprev or utec kit.


DAN
 

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THIS REALLY SUCKS!!!

I sent my window switch back to ZEX to have it checked, and it was defective like I thought.
It had an internal ground problem.
They told me they were shipping out a new one last week. I haven't received it yet so I called them.

Turns out they are out of stock and not expecting anymore until AUGUST!!!!
And they won't do a refund because it was a defective replacement, and I purchased it from an authorized dealer.

AUGUST!!! The racing season will be over in August!!

This is frustarating because now I'm going to have to buy another one from someone else, then try to sell the ZEX unit when I get it.
Grrrrrrrr!
:xZ!o: :banghead:
:xZ!o: :banghead:
 

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Well I finally got the new replacement window switch.
Took it into the tuner and had the UTEC tuned for NA and 125HP nitrous shot.

After 2 hours of working on the NA tune, he got to the nitrous.
And what do you know, the NEW window switch ALMOST worked ONCE!
It turned on and then shut off, and never worked again. :banghead:
So we had to tune it very carefully.

The other sucky thing was the Dyno's printer isn't working, and they couldn't print anything.
He told me that the Dyno is made in Australia and he can't get it fixed for a while, and the software isn't compatible with other printers. :xZ!o:

RESULTS:
2006 350Z with an Automatic Transmission,
UTEC, AAM Angled Plenum Spacer, CAI, and all the nitrous goodies:

The NA tune came in at 245whp
The 125hp nitrous shot tune was almost 340whp (without window switch control).
(He said the whp should be higher, but it was the last tune and he had been running the motor at full throttle for the past 2 hours for the NA tune, and the engine was hot and tired.)


Not too bad for a almost stock Z.
:shiftdrive:
 
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