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I recently wrapped up my install of a set of Z1 polyurethane motor mounts in my '05. Prior to beginning the install, I found only 4 sources to help with this modification. 2 of those sources were videos (honestly, only 1 was useful) and 2 were write-ups, 1 on a Z forum and one on a G forum. I noticed this forum did not appear to have any information on this mod so I figured I would share my course of attack to not only give a baseline on how to do this, but another option for tackle the mount replacement.

I went a route that I felt would be easiest for the most reluctant person. It does not involve removing the engine nor does it involve touching the subframe or K-brace. As a result, it is a little more time-consuming.

--I began with tackling the driver's side as it allows the most room and is the easiest to access / remove--

Start by jacking up the front of the car and placing it on jack stands. Remove your undertray from the bottom of your car via the number of 10mm bolts holding it in place

Move up top and disconnect your battery ( it will be necessary later) and the strut bar (6 14mm bolts and 2 14mm nuts)

Remove your intake box and tube (or CAI / SRI)

Remove the 4 10mm bolts holding the heat shield to your exhaust (not necessary if you have headers / no shield)

At this point you should have a good line of sight on the driver's side mount's top nut. Begin by hitting the nut with a healthy amount of PB blaster.

My Z had a bracket attached to this nut for whatever reason. Due to Nissan's design of the mount brackets, they have a lip that prevents a standard wrench from going on fully in any direction other than parallel to the subframe, running from engine toward frame. This bracket prevents that from being possible. I took a dremel and cut this bracket off. No negative results occurred from this.

With your stubby wrench in place, crawl under the car. Place a long extension or a short bar with one on the front-end side of the stubby and the other end on the rear-end side of the subframe. This will allow you to apply force on the downward side of the bar/extension in a front-of-car direction, applying force to the stubby and breaking loose the top nut. I was able to reach my left hand around the front side of the subframe and around to the stubby to prevent the stubby from slipping off the top nut as well as the extension / bar from slipping off the stubby.

Use a breaker bar, an extension, and a 17mm deep socket to break the bottom mount nut loose.

--Passenger side--

This mount can be a huge PITA and the most time consuming. Here is what I did:

Remove the top radiator home from the radiator inlet and bend it back out of the way

Remove the top two 10mm radiator bolts that hold the radiator fans to the radiator

Remove the hose that runs from the radiator fill neck to the overflow tank from the fill neck. Undo the 10mm bolt holding the overflow tank in place (if applicable) and slide the tank straight up off the bracket. Undo the 10mm bolt holding the bracket in place and set everything aside.

Slide under the car and undo the two bottom connectors for the radiator fans. Carefully maneuver the radiator fans up and out.

Locate the idle pulley next to the alternator. Using a 14mm socket with a breaker bar (if necessary) or a wrench, break the pulley nut loose one full turn counter-clockwise

Locate the 12mm bolt under the idle pulley that faces the ground. Rotate it counter-clockwise until the pulley has dropped enough to allow the serpentine belt to be removed

Unplug the gray connector on the back of the alternator

Unplug the connector for your oil PSI sensor

Remove the two 8mm bolts on the back of the alternator

Locate and remove the two 14mm bolts on the front of the alternator. 1 is used to keep the alternator bolted to the block while the other is used to actually mount the alternator and it MUUUCH longer to allow the alternator to swing / pivot.

Once the above bolts are removed and the alternator can be pulled free, remove the 12mm (I believe nut) that holds the (+) cable to the alternator. Place the alternator out of the way.

Move to the starter and begin by unplugging the gray connector.

Remove the 13mm nut that holds the (+) cable to the starter. Be very careful as I broke this stud with very minimal force

Unbolt the 2 14mm bolts that hold the starter to the bellhousing. Slide the starter out of the transmission toward the front of the car then back and out through the opening behind the K- brace

At this time, go ahead and remove the 17mm bottom nut of the passenger side mount

Now we need to support the engine. You have two methods: an engine hoist (recommended) or a two jack method like I used. I placed a block of wood on the front and rear edges of the oil pan then used a piece of 2x4 to span between the two blocks. What this did was not only distribute the force evenly between the two edges of the upper oil pan, preventing you from destroying it, but also provided a more uniform lift. I used a hydraulic jack on the 2x4 span for primary lifting and then placed an additional block of wood on the driver's side of the oil pan and used a manual jack to support this side in the event my primary jack failed. Very carefully lift the engine about 1/4 of the inch

With the starter and alternator removed you should have quite a bit of space to access the 4 14mm bolts that hold the mount bracket to the block. These bolts will be a *, but they can be broken loose with a standard 14mm closed-end wrench. For those on the front-side of the block, I would lay on my back, place both hands on the wrench and just push (think bench press). Intermittently tapping it with a dead-blow hammer can help to loosen them up.

The rear can be a little more difficult. Using a hammer is extremely difficult given the small confines and direction of wrench rotation. I laid on my back, grabbed the wrench and just pulled with as much force as I could. Looking back, I suggest placing the wrench on the bolts so that it runs parallel to the ground, then placing a short pry bar with one end on the top-side of the wrench and the other end and the bottom of the frame. Apply upward force to the outside end of the pry bar to break the wrench free.

Once all bolts have been removed, carefully continue to jack the engine up, ensuring no wires or hoses are pinched or bent and using your manual jack to maintain support. Lift the engine until the bottom stud of the mounts have cleared the subframe. Maneuver the mounts out toward the front of the car. The driver side can be easily swapped back in to place. The passenger side will require the bracket coming out with it. Once out the top nut can be broken free and the new mount attached. Be sure to torque them to 36 ft-lbs.

Reassembly is the reverse of the above procedures.

I will upload pics when I have free time.

Hope this helps someone out.
 
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