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Discussion Starter #1
My Z just got repainted and I began to wonder about next steps, namely what would be best in terms of safety and handling to invest into in the near future? The steering is phenomenal but starts to feel kinda sluggish, while the ride is getting soft - guess the rebound and dampening is not what it used to be.

Apart from bigger/ better brakes (thinking about 370z akebono) what would you consider ? New swaybars, coilovers, braces or simply a service to the stock suspension and steering to begin with?


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How many miles are on your Z? If it's high, you should consider replacing the shocks with some high-quality units from Koni or Bilstein. After that, swaybars would be a nice upgrade.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
How many miles are on your Z? If it's high, you should consider replacing the shocks with some high-quality units from Koni or Bilstein. After that, swaybars would be a nice upgrade.


110k miles


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How many miles are on your Z? If it's high, you should consider replacing the shocks with some high-quality units from Koni or Bilstein. After that, swaybars would be a nice upgrade.


Also: any recommendations for street suspension? Don't mind car being more bumpy


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Koni 8241 Sport shocks are what I use on my street Z. Combined with Eibach Prokit progressive springs they make a sweet combo.
 

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Also: any recommendations for street suspension? Don't mind car being more bumpy


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Koni 8241 Sport shocks are what I use on my street Z. Combined with Eibach Prokit progressive springs they make a sweet combo.

I have the same static setup as dkmura and love the shock adjustability (to suit whichever tire/wheel combination I'm running at a given moment); however, I am a bigger fan of the ride improvement, quality and handling of the Bilstein B12 ProKit set up over stock. (Shocks are Bilstein, springs are Eibach and lowers the car ~ -19mm). It's also the cheapest way to get into a set of 'Steins. (I started with the B12 PK but gave away my Bilsteins to a starving student. :wink2: Uhhh, my son. Switched to the Konis following; ride stiffness is a bit more harsh.)


Sway bars are the best bang for the handling buck - if you don't need shocks (but with 110k and assuming original shocks, you needed them 50k ago. Laff.)


But the most overlooked thing when people start messing with the suspension. ALIGNMENT is the most important thing you can do for handling, even stock. Keep in mind though, there is no camber adjustment stock. If you lower the car, you MIGHT be able to get away without having to align but the right way to do it is to install adjustable FUCAs and rear camber arms. Then take it to a competent alignment person who knows how to work with aftermarket adjustables. Most shops haven't a clue and will do the usual toe and caster adjustment to factory spec (because that's what's programmed into the Hunter (or whatever rack they use) and that's where they stop. Problem is, adjustment of any one of the three angles affects the other two. Do camber first, toe next, then caster. Then go back and check the other two again.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks a lot. By any chance - what height ride adjustment is safe for 225/45r18 front 245/45r18 rear? Previous owner had 245/35 front and rear which made the car grind on speed bumps ( guess it Could be a result of worn out suspension or cut springs). Also - compared to new suspension, how beneficial will be to lower the ride?

I spot a complete set of bushings while browsing for parts - worth to replace them ?


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Thanks a lot. By any chance - what height ride adjustment is safe for 225/45r18 front 245/45r18 rear? Previous owner had 245/35 front and rear which made the car grind on speed bumps ( guess it Could be a result of worn out suspension or cut springs). Also - compared to new suspension, how beneficial will be to lower the ride?

I spot a complete set of bushings while browsing for parts - worth to replace them ?


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There is no "safe" ride height. Ride heights for either the Koni and Bilstein options are not adjustable, except by spring length. If you're concerned about speed bumps, I'd suggest retaining the OEM springs for maximum ride height.

Bushing replacement may be worthwhile, but it really depends on how hard your Z was ridden and put away wet.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Got it. Given that I'd rather have a reliable and long lasting (street) part - what other brands should I consider? What specs should I look for or avoid?


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Reliable and long lasting? I'd go with the Koni yellow sport shocks with a lifetime warranty. As for specs, both the Konis and Bilsteins are high-performance single adjustable shocks for rebound and that's the minimum I'd go for in a replacement shock.
 

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Yep-stay away from cheap coilovers with a one year warranty.

This. ^^^


You get what you pay for. Coilovers at the price of a decent set of static shocks/springs.... not a pretty picture. Coilovers are NOT necessary for a street car. Of course, every kid on Facebook will tell you they are. Unless you are part of the set who want to constantly change their ride height, stay away. Likewise, unless you are racing and know how to corner balance and set jounce and rebound, stay away. People say I'm old in my thinking. No, old school....where decisions are based on facts and figures, not the latest craze on social media.



If your main concern is speed bumps, I highly recommend (as dkmura did) staying with OE height springs or go with a mild lowering spring like those mentioned earlier in my earlier comment, the Bilstein B12 ProKit. Top of the line shocks matched with a set of springs from one of the top companies in the world for springs, Eibach. Lowers about 20mm and coupled with the proper sized tires (the OEM sizes you mentioned or other tires that run the same diameter give/take as stock), you needn't worry about bumps.
 

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I too can vouch for KW. OEM quality or better. I have the Variant 3's with a ever so slightly lower than stock ride height (higher than the recommended setting by KW actually) and the bound and rebound dampening control made the car night and day different.

I've also had Hotchkis sway bars front and rear which truthfully keep this car so neutral. I've literally never driven anything that handles this intuitively and honestly, and inspires such confidence in the corners.

Also, as of recently I upgraded the brakes to factory Brembo calipers with Z1 2-piece slotted rotors and - WOW. Turn in is even less resistant, due to the unsprung reduced rotational mass. I never realized they would have an effect on handling, but coming through familiar turns with the new discs on there felt different - like I threw in too much wheel input expecting more resistance from the all-steel previous brake setup.

Many pieces to the handling puzzle my friend. Good luck on your quest!
 
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