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:OMG: OK, adding TT is not as simple as I thought....Buy the Greddy kit, have it installed and voila. Good thing I have an excellent race shop here. Motorsports Performance in Frederick, MD built the fastest street legal Supra in the world. It ran the 1/4 in 7.08 @ 180! They squeezed 1,400 HP out of that beast. Although they specialize in Supras, I am sure they know a thing or two about turbos. I'm heading there tomorrow to talk about TT plans for my Z. Thanks Ernie for the info. I'll be taking your advice.
 

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u guys are scaring me what do i do to not blow my engine forged rods and pistons?? im confused and scared!!
 

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[/quote]
Did you read the thread? JMO, you need to do some research, and specifically research of those with a Vortech kit, it will help you understand your 350Z and specifcally your setup on your 350Z tons better.
 

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Very good information! Thanks for taking the time to educate me and others. I have one question.................when are you selling your car? LOL

Cajun
 

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Originally posted by Going Deep@Mar 3 2005, 01:33 AM



4. Now, pistons and rods. You shouldn't spend more than 2k here if you shop around. My suggestion would be to stay less than 9.5:1 compression ratio. In the simplest terms here...the lower the compression ratio, the higher psi you can run. The trade off, there would be a little more of a delay in reaching your peak hp in your power band. But, you will be less likely to run into detonation issues. Personally, I wanted 9:1, but ended up with 8.6:1 due to supply issues of pistons.

[snapback]78776[/snapback]​


It has been a common misconception that when you run a lower compression ratio, you get more of a turbo "lag"...or it takes longer for you to hit your desired boost level. This is very untrue. It all depends on how efficient of an "airpump" your engine is. Mass flow is the most important determining factor in turbine performance. The turbine needs a mass flow so that it can extract the required work to do it's job. Increasing compression ratio does not increase mass flow through the turbine.

The illusion that is created that make people think the turbine is "spooling" faster, is that the higher the compression, the more power you are making throughout the entire powerband, so, your seat of the pants dyno tells you that boost onset is quicker, and it is not,.....you simply have a more efficient air pump (due to the higher CR) and are making slightly more power.

The only mass flow gain available from increasing CR is an increase in fuel necesary to prevent detonation, and this amount is negligeable compared to the total mass flow of the system at the spool RPM.

I know people who have gone from 10.5:1 CR to 7.8:1 CR and not had any change in spool characteristics.

Not trying to sink your ship, just wanted to clear that up.
 

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do you guys think 350rwhp is gonna be relaible with a TT........or should htere be planing for f/internals
350rwhp is easily reliable and is super conservative for a TT. IMO you are better off with a supercharger or single T if you are going that conservative.
 

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350rwhp is easily reliable and is super conservative for a TT. IMO you are better off with a supercharger or single T if you are going that conservative.
I agree!
 

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Well I'm poor right now. So when I do have money for TT . . . I will probably go the "semi-safe" route (method #2 presented in the article).

Once I actually get money then I'll probably do a full rebuild . . . . but like I said I'm quite broke hahaha and I'm waiting till warranty runs out before I get my FI anyways.
 

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Well I'm poor right now. So when I do have money for TT . . . I will probably go the "semi-safe" route (method #2 presented in the article).

Once I actually get money then I'll probably do a full rebuild . . . . but like I said I'm quite broke hahaha and I'm waiting till warranty runs out before I get my FI anyways.
People don't seem to realize how much money it will really take to run a TT setup reliably.
 

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Sorry for the newbie question but.. how many hp you guys think it's possible to reach witout changing internal parts?

(yes.. no money sucks a lot...)

hauhuah...

thanks,
PK.
 

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Well I'm poor right now. So when I do have money for TT . . . I will probably go the "semi-safe" route (method #2 presented in the article).

Once I actually get money then I'll probably do a full rebuild . . . . but like I said I'm quite broke hahaha and I'm waiting till warranty runs out before I get my FI anyways.
****, only a month after this I went off to get Twin Turbos. :shiftdrive:
 

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I first read this article when I bought my 35th Anniversary and wanted to do something yet had no idea what. Of course I have spent a heap of cash to get it where I like it but this article gave me the heads up as to the issues before me at the time. I will attempt to attach the dyno graph so here goes. I stopped at 12psi because of the APS preset on the blowoff valves. This engine has been very carefully built with a JUN stroker kit @ 8.4:1 C/R, Cosworth heads, JWT cams, Closed Deck, ARP Studs, Cosworth gaskets (Cometic I think), Aluminum Flywheel, Ceramic clutch. We have come up with a "foolproof" coolant filler kit so that cavitation from coolant blowoff is impossible, or if your working on the engine in any way and need to coolant fill, a minimum of fuss is required (just fill and fit the cap!). there has been a considerable amount of machining with alloys to compliment the build with a well tuned chassis and impressive result. Whilst its not the wildest tune in the street, it is bullet proof and running WELL below its capabilities. Is there a sticky with all the TURBO results displayed? It would be so handy at this stage as I wish to compare torque curves and final results. Please enjoy.[attachment=23402:DYNO_01.bmp]
 

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Ok, so how much power were you punching when you threw a leg out of bed?
so your pretty much saying that we shouldnt take our stock internals over 400rwhp yet there are many cars cruising around on stockies just fine? i guess there the lucky ones?
 

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QUOTE (greddyttz @ Jan 3 2009, 11:52 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=564689
Ok, so how much power were you punching when you threw a leg out of bed?
so your pretty much saying that we shouldnt take our stock internals over 400rwhp yet there are many cars cruising around on stockies just fine? i guess there the lucky ones?
Tune! Tune! Tune! It all comes down to the tune, what turbos you're running, etc... IE: I'm on stock internals with the JWT 700BB (GT28 turbos) kit & UTEC. At 10lbs of boost SGP tuned 420whp. Another G owner on stock internals with the JWT 530 (GT25 turbos) kit & VPro was able to dyno 450whp at 10lbs. He was albe to make more hp due to his turbos are maxed out and a better EMS. The GT28s don't hit thier sweet spot till 16-17lbs of boost. However no matter what boost level you run on a stock engine the tune determines how long it will last.
 
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