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Discussion Starter #41
Thanks for adding to the thread! :yourock:
 

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Hey guys.

My passenger window stopped working yesterady.. i would hear the clicking sound, but no movement...

i dismantled my passenger door (panel) and we step by step with the instructions....

the only thing i did different was i used a q-tip to clean out the motor base.... i didnt use any w40 or alcohol...

i put the whole thing back together and tried rolling up the window... it went up 20Z% and stopped (went up very slow).....

what went wrong? I'm confused..
 

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Discussion Starter #43
Do it over and clean it better this time. You really need to clean the housing, the brushes as shown in the pics, and make sure the gunk is gone.
 

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oh man, i only cleaned the base.. i didnt do any cleaning in the green area or the spring at the bottom... so get rid of all the black sticky gunk?

am i going to need the wd40 to make it work? or can i just use qtip to clean it out?

thanks guys, this site rocks~!
 

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Discussion Starter #45
You'll definitely need some kind of cleaning spray. I also used an electrical connection cleaner.
 

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Hey guys

Im curious if anyone has the size/dimension of the motor brush. Im looking around to purchase or file-to-size one before opening the motor up.
 

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Hey guys

Im curious if anyone has the size/dimension of the motor brush. Im looking around to purchase or file-to-size one before opening the motor up.
I'm not sure if you can find the exact brush size, but what I did was find the RC Motor Stand Up brushes, such as these here
TowerHobbies.com | MBS5B Muchmore Racing Stand Up Motor Brushes (10)


I had to sand them down a little bit to make them fit nicely. They were off by about 0.5mm in width, so it was pretty close in size.

I just did this over the weekend, it didn't take long at all. Just make sure you are comfortable with the soldering gun :)
 

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nice write-up
Dude - welcome to Tech :cheers: BUT you don't have to reply to every single post you read saying "nice writeup". :rolf2: Save some bandwidth for the rest of us, lol.
 

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I'm new to the Forum so hello everyone. I'm located in middle Tenn. below Nashville. I bought my wife her first new car back in 2003. It was a 2004 black 350z touring. Mechanically, the car has been flawless really. Just a problem that I diagnosed under warranty that the cam sensor failed.

The convertible top has a hole in it that I'm going to replace myself this winter. I bought a "take-off" from our local dealership when a car came in with a flaw about half the size of a BB for pennies on the dollar. Replacing it should be a challenge for sure.

Now to the topic at hand in this thread. Three weeks ago, the driver door window began to fail very much like others have described in this thread. Meanwhile, one week later, the drivers door handle wouldn't open the door. So I began my quest searching the NET for a forum that covered these things which landed me here and I'm very glad to say this forum has been very helpful indeed. Some of the most thorough and organized thought processes of explaining and answering problems that I've ever seen in a forum. Hat's off to all of you.

Cutting to the chase, I bought the door handle at my dealership but bought the window motor assembly from NISMO which you guys mentioned saving $100 over dealership cost. With some of the best pics and write-ups of window motor repair and replacement, I decided to buy the motor assembly simply because I didn't have time to deal with the cleaning and possible going back in to fix something I may have overlooked especially since it is the WIFE's car. The motor replacement went flawlessly, the reset of the motor to set the new up and down limits went just as well. Not to mention I wouldn't have known about that reset without reading it here.... a big thanks. Most of all, I want to mention what a piece of junk that outside door handle is. I will post that next.
Thanks everyone!
 

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Now, about that junky outside door handle. Did I mention it was junk?!? ;-)
Anyway, I took some pics of the handle where it failed. I'll load all 3 of them here if I can.




 

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PIC 1
PIC 2
PIC 3

The above pics show just how cheap the door handle on my wifes 2004 350Z are made. They are ALL plastic with a couple of rods and spring made of steel. Looking at the pics, you can see that the broken boss was set up to fail. In fact, I would call it an "Epic Fail". They try to save weight or maybe material on that boss for no reason. Then, they try to give the existing boss support with tiny thin ribs. Mechanical Design is what I do for a living and this is pathetic. Anytime you enter in ribs for support that have sharp corners, you have also entered stress risers that can start a crack. So, this boss was under designed and entered several more fault lines to the design with a "fin" design that you would use to dissipate heat with no loads rather than increase the diameter of the boss and use large radius corners to add strength. I give Nissan an "F" for this design failure. The rod that activates the door latch mechanism from this handle has two axis loading. One is in the down direction and the other is in the side loading direction toward the inside of the car. This dual loading axis on the handle is what broke it. Any of you that have worked on your door handle know just how precarious the this goes together.

To top this off, I drive a 1994 Sentra LE Limited 5 speed with most all options and 230K miles. I have yet replaced anything in the interior, handles, door mechanisms or much else. I replaced the 5 speed of all things this summer because the thrust bearing in the left side axle shaft went out. It still had the original clutch, original air cond. charge and many other things. I could go on but my point is it's a real gem at 37 mpg I bought as first car for my oldest in 1999 and maintenance has just been the standard stuff. Yet, a $38K car has this kind of problem both a poor window motor and door handle design. Give me a break.... Ok... I feel a little better now...;-)
 

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Discussion Starter #55
I'm now on motor #3. Actually, it's my 2nd refurbished one after the OEM went kaput. Fortunately, motor #2 is under a lifetime warranty so I got #3 w/o charge.

I believe there's a problem with this new one, though. The pins aren't lining up properly. The motor connector has 6 pins (4 + 2). The 'bottom' 2 are too low or too far apart from the 4. Therefore, it's not seating properly. I'm afraid to force it.

There has to be a way to pull those 2 out and flip them around to make them sit higher.
 

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You smoothz operator you. This post just saved me over 500 bucks. Took almost 2 hours to do both doors....sniff sniff I had a tear in my eyez when I saw my window go up and down again!
 

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Thanks for this I did this in both of my motors and it worked perfectly, I lightly sanded the copper area of the motor and it worked :)
 

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Discussion Starter #59
Glad it worked! :thumbsup:
 

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Thanks for the help!!

Smoothz,
Thanks for the information......I followed your steps and some steps on another link involving the removal of a passenger door speaker for a 2008 350Z Roadster which my wife has.
All worked out perfectly and window functions great now.
Thx again!!

Ed
 
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