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[HOW-TO] Brake Pad Install
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Revision; 2004 April 2003 350Z
CAUTION:
Clean dust on caliper and brake pad with a vacuum dust collector. Do not blow with compressed air.
FrontBrake.jpg goes here!
1. Union bolt 2. Brake hose 3. Copper washer
4. Cap 5. Air bleeder 6. Sliding pin bolt
7. Cylinder body 8. Inner shim cover 9. Inner shim
10. Piston seal 11. Piston 12. Inner pad
13. Pad wear sensor 14. Pad retainer 15. Piston boot
16. Outer pad 17. Pad wear sensor 18. Sliding pin bolt
19. Torque member bolts 20. Outer shim 21. Slide pin boot
22. Torque member 23. Washer 24. Decrement shim (Not inserted in
some vehicles.)
Replacing the pads is a simple procedure:
Remove one bolt,
swing up the caliper,
remove the old pads,
pop off the shims,
put the shims on the new pads,
put the new pads in the calipers(be sure to insert the spring properly),
squeeze the piston back,
swing the caliper back into place and
reinstall the bolt. </span>
FRONT DISC BRAKE (CLZ25VD TYPE)
Revision; 2004 April 2003 350Z
While the brake pad and cylinder body are separated, the piston may suddenly jump out, so do not depress the brake pedal.
It is not necessary to remove bolts on torque member and brake hose except for disassembly or replacement of the caliper assembly. In this case, hang cylinder body with a wire so that brake hose is not under tension.
Do not damage piston boot.
If any shim is subject to serious corrosion, replace it with a new one.
Always replace shims and shim covers as a set when replacing brake pads.
Keep the rotor clean of brake fluid.
Removal and Installation of Brake Pad
REMOVAL
1. Remove tires from vehicle with power tool.
2. Remove lower sliding pin bolt (1).
3. Hang the cylinder body with a wire and remove the pad and
shim from the torque member.
CAUTION:
When removing the pad retainer from the torque member, lift the pad retainer in the direction shown by the arrow (shown in the figure) so as not to deform it.
INSTALLATION
1. Apply PBC (Poly Butyl Cuprysil) grease or silicone -based grease between inner shim cover and inner shim.
2. Attach the inner shim and shim cover to the inner pad and the outer shim to the outer pad.
CAUTION:
Attach the inner shim cover in the direction shown in the figure. (So that the rotor direction of rotation is away from the cutout in the shim - If you do one side at a time, this should not be a problem)
3. Apply PBC (Poly Butyl Cuprysil) grease or silicone -based
grease to the contact surface of the pad retainer and attach the
pad retainer and pad to the torque member.
CAUTION:
Since both the inner and outer pads have pad return mechanisms
on the upper pad retainer, when attaching a pad,
make sure the pad return lever is firmly attached to the pad
wear sensor.
4. Push the piston in so that the pad is firmly attached and attach the cylinder body to the torque member.
NOTE:
Using a disc brake piston tool (commercial service tool), etc., makes it easier to push in the piston.
<span style="color:red">CAUTION:
By pushing in the piston, the brake fluid returns to the master cylinder reservoir tank. Watch the
level of the surface of the reservoir tank.
When attaching the pad retainer, attach it firmly so that it
does not float up higher than the torque member, as
shown in the figure.
5. Install lower sliding pin bolt (1), and tighten it to the specified
torque.
6. Check brake for drag.
7. Attach the tires to the vehicle.
CAUTION:
Clean dust on caliper and brake pad with a vacuum dust collector. Do not blow with compressed air.
FrontBrake.jpg goes here!
1. Union bolt 2. Brake hose 3. Copper washer
4. Cap 5. Air bleeder 6. Sliding pin bolt
7. Cylinder body 8. Inner shim cover 9. Inner shim
10. Piston seal 11. Piston 12. Inner pad
13. Pad wear sensor 14. Pad retainer 15. Piston boot
16. Outer pad 17. Pad wear sensor 18. Sliding pin bolt
19. Torque member bolts 20. Outer shim 21. Slide pin boot
22. Torque member 23. Washer 24. Decrement shim (Not inserted in
some vehicles.)
Replacing the pads is a simple procedure:
Remove one bolt,
swing up the caliper,
remove the old pads,
pop off the shims,
put the shims on the new pads,
put the new pads in the calipers(be sure to insert the spring properly),
squeeze the piston back,
swing the caliper back into place and
reinstall the bolt. </span>
FRONT DISC BRAKE (CLZ25VD TYPE)
Revision; 2004 April 2003 350Z
While the brake pad and cylinder body are separated, the piston may suddenly jump out, so do not depress the brake pedal.
It is not necessary to remove bolts on torque member and brake hose except for disassembly or replacement of the caliper assembly. In this case, hang cylinder body with a wire so that brake hose is not under tension.
Do not damage piston boot.
If any shim is subject to serious corrosion, replace it with a new one.
Always replace shims and shim covers as a set when replacing brake pads.
Keep the rotor clean of brake fluid.
Removal and Installation of Brake Pad
REMOVAL
1. Remove tires from vehicle with power tool.
2. Remove lower sliding pin bolt (1).
3. Hang the cylinder body with a wire and remove the pad and
shim from the torque member.
CAUTION:
When removing the pad retainer from the torque member, lift the pad retainer in the direction shown by the arrow (shown in the figure) so as not to deform it.
INSTALLATION
1. Apply PBC (Poly Butyl Cuprysil) grease or silicone -based grease between inner shim cover and inner shim.
2. Attach the inner shim and shim cover to the inner pad and the outer shim to the outer pad.
CAUTION:
Attach the inner shim cover in the direction shown in the figure. (So that the rotor direction of rotation is away from the cutout in the shim - If you do one side at a time, this should not be a problem)
3. Apply PBC (Poly Butyl Cuprysil) grease or silicone -based
grease to the contact surface of the pad retainer and attach the
pad retainer and pad to the torque member.
CAUTION:
Since both the inner and outer pads have pad return mechanisms
on the upper pad retainer, when attaching a pad,
make sure the pad return lever is firmly attached to the pad
wear sensor.
4. Push the piston in so that the pad is firmly attached and attach the cylinder body to the torque member.
NOTE:
Using a disc brake piston tool (commercial service tool), etc., makes it easier to push in the piston.
<span style="color:red">CAUTION:
By pushing in the piston, the brake fluid returns to the master cylinder reservoir tank. Watch the
level of the surface of the reservoir tank.
When attaching the pad retainer, attach it firmly so that it
does not float up higher than the torque member, as
shown in the figure.
5. Install lower sliding pin bolt (1), and tighten it to the specified
torque.
6. Check brake for drag.
7. Attach the tires to the vehicle.
Attachments
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16,332 Posts
*MOVED TO WIKI
http://www.350z-tech.com/zwiki/Tutorial:Br...ad_Installation
http://www.350z-tech.com/zwiki/Tutorial:Br...ad_Installation
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4 Posts
I have a question, there is a difference between both tutorials. In one, it is mentioned to use PBC grease or silicone based grease, but in the other one nothing is used.
Does anyone know if the grease is necesary for the front brake pad change?
I also read that brake cleaner is needed, but that isnt mentioned in the tutorial either, is it needed?
Thanks
Does anyone know if the grease is necesary for the front brake pad change?
I also read that brake cleaner is needed, but that isnt mentioned in the tutorial either, is it needed?
Thanks
According to the Nissan Service Manual, Poly-butyl cuprasil grease is required. I would recommend that you use exactly what the manual calls for. The instructions that I posted came from the service manual. Note that the PBC grease is rather pricey - about $50.00 for a jar at the Nissan parts counter. This will last you a lifetime and then some.
As for brake cleaner, my experience has been that it is a good idea to use brake cleaner after you have washed the area with soap and water. Soap will leave a residue, but it will carry away most of the brake dust. Proper brake cleaner does not leave a residue and will make the job less messy while ensuring that you do not have junk on your rotors that would result in glazing.
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1,589 Posts
REAR BRAKES????
do we have a howto on those??
there is a special tool to do it i know that much. and if noone is aware the rear stock brakes suck so bad i dont even think they work.
every Z i drove and pulled on the E brake resulted in nothing happening at all except squealing. Didn't feel like it worked at all
i love my napa premium pads up front but need to desperatly swap out the rears.
what extra steps are there to take????
Thanks!
do we have a howto on those??
there is a special tool to do it i know that much. and if noone is aware the rear stock brakes suck so bad i dont even think they work.
every Z i drove and pulled on the E brake resulted in nothing happening at all except squealing. Didn't feel like it worked at all
i love my napa premium pads up front but need to desperatly swap out the rears.
what extra steps are there to take????
Thanks!
The only "special tool" that you will need is some fairly strong wire - a coat hanger will work. You'll need this to hang the caliper out of the way. You can use a pair of wide mouth pliers to compress the piston. When you squeeze the piston, be careful that you don't let the brake fluid reservoir overflow. If it is full, you will probably get some overflow - it is best to prepare for this and put some old rags around the brake master before you begin work.
BRAKE BURNISHING PROCEDURE</span>
Burnish the brake contact surface according to the following procedure after refinishing or replacing rotors,
after replacing pads, or if a soft pedal occurs at very low mileage.
<span style="color:#FF0000">CAUTION:
Only perform this procedure under safe road and traffic conditions. Use extreme caution.
1. Drive the vehicle on a straight smooth road at 50 km/h (31 MPH).
2. Use medium brake pedal /foot effort to bring the vehicle to a complete stop from 50 km/h (31 MPH).
Adjust brake pedal /foot pressure such that vehicle stopping time equals 3 to 5 seconds.
3. To cool the brake system, drive the vehicle at 50 km/h (31 MPH) for 1 minute without stopping.
4. Repeat steps 1 to 3, 10times or more to complete the burnishing procedure.
BRAKE BURNISHING PROCEDURE</span>
Burnish the brake contact surface according to the following procedure after refinishing or replacing rotors,
after replacing pads, or if a soft pedal occurs at very low mileage.
<span style="color:#FF0000">CAUTION:
Only perform this procedure under safe road and traffic conditions. Use extreme caution.
1. Drive the vehicle on a straight smooth road at 50 km/h (31 MPH).
2. Use medium brake pedal /foot effort to bring the vehicle to a complete stop from 50 km/h (31 MPH).
Adjust brake pedal /foot pressure such that vehicle stopping time equals 3 to 5 seconds.
3. To cool the brake system, drive the vehicle at 50 km/h (31 MPH) for 1 minute without stopping.
4. Repeat steps 1 to 3, 10times or more to complete the burnishing procedure.
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4 Posts
Thanks for the response, and the info.
One more question, I am changed the brake fluid (replaced all the fluid on the brake fluid reservoir), but was wondering what is the reservoir thet is beside the brake fluid one (also located under the brake fluid cover).
One more question, I am changed the brake fluid (replaced all the fluid on the brake fluid reservoir), but was wondering what is the reservoir thet is beside the brake fluid one (also located under the brake fluid cover).
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1,248 Posts
Yeah, seems to be missing.
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1,248 Posts
delslo, they've fixed it. Though, I think the link may have changed over time. Here's the new link:
Brake Pad Installation - Nissan 350Z & 370Z Wiki
Brake Pad Installation - Nissan 350Z & 370Z Wiki
Suggestion.
There are several references to brake fluid being pushed back into the main reservoir when the pistons are pushed back into the caliper. Unless you are sure your fluid is spotless (and chances are it is not) i would recommend that you bleed each caliper BEFORE you even start the job. Collect the bled fluid in a transparent glass container (or similar) and when you can see that the fluid is clean THEN proceed to remove caliper & push back pistons etc.
Why?
Well under braking those pads gets really hot (that's why brake fluid has such a high boiling point) This can cause condensation to form in the caliper. The fluid absorbs this and eventually changes to a cloudy colour. The moisture trapped by the fluid then causes corrosion in the caliper (piston) cavity which in turn eats up the rubber seal around the piston. Then one day your brake pedal goes to the floor and you are in for an expensive brake overhaul. If you have ABS your expenses increase by a factor of 10. Interestingly your hydraulic clutch will also go the same way although it may take longer (perhaps because there is less heat involved).
How do i know all this? Well i bought old cars that were not properly maintained and over the years a series of kindly old mechanics have given me the benefit of their hard won experiences - while parting me from a great deal of hard earned cash in the process.
So change those fluids. REGULARLY.
Oh and by the way, brake fluid destroys paintwork as surely as corrosion will destroy your brakes. You really DON'T want it overflowing the reservoir.
There are several references to brake fluid being pushed back into the main reservoir when the pistons are pushed back into the caliper. Unless you are sure your fluid is spotless (and chances are it is not) i would recommend that you bleed each caliper BEFORE you even start the job. Collect the bled fluid in a transparent glass container (or similar) and when you can see that the fluid is clean THEN proceed to remove caliper & push back pistons etc.
Why?
Well under braking those pads gets really hot (that's why brake fluid has such a high boiling point) This can cause condensation to form in the caliper. The fluid absorbs this and eventually changes to a cloudy colour. The moisture trapped by the fluid then causes corrosion in the caliper (piston) cavity which in turn eats up the rubber seal around the piston. Then one day your brake pedal goes to the floor and you are in for an expensive brake overhaul. If you have ABS your expenses increase by a factor of 10. Interestingly your hydraulic clutch will also go the same way although it may take longer (perhaps because there is less heat involved).
How do i know all this? Well i bought old cars that were not properly maintained and over the years a series of kindly old mechanics have given me the benefit of their hard won experiences - while parting me from a great deal of hard earned cash in the process.
So change those fluids. REGULARLY.
Oh and by the way, brake fluid destroys paintwork as surely as corrosion will destroy your brakes. You really DON'T want it overflowing the reservoir.
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