how much horse power can u get from vortech
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Ive heard cams help a lot with FI.. maybe try that?
I forgot...
The new Kinetix Manifold would add up to 80 hp with propper tunning for a total of. Check link: http://www.350z-tech.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=8157
The new Kinetix Manifold would add up to 80 hp with propper tunning for a total of. Check link: http://www.350z-tech.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=8157
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Have 398 hp with the Vortech 3.33 pulley. Also have D.C. Headers, V4 plenum, JWT Light fly and a good dyno tune.. Tune with an outfit that has experience with the R4 S/W. Oh, all stock internals..With smaller pulleys can probably squeeze another 8-10 hp..
Have 398 hp with the Vortech 3.33 pulley. Also have D.C. Headers, V4 plenum, JWT Light fly and a good dyno tune.. Tune with an outfit that has experience with the R4 S/W. Oh, all stock internals..With smaller pulleys can probably squeeze another 8-10 hp..
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5,530 Posts
Commentary from the voice of experience with the Vortech.
1. Agree, if you want 500rwhp, you should replace the bottom end.
2. Crawford plenum and new lower intake will be good for you. For the same price, the new Kinetix Intake Manifold would be a little better. Specifically designed for FI applications and shown to create a little more power than the upper plenum replacements.
3. A moderate step up would be to replace the cams, but they do make a big difference on an FI car. For FI applications, I'd recommend Nismo, Tomei mild grind, or the JWTs. I have the Nismos, but if I were doing it today, I'd buy the JWTs (they were not available when I did my build).
4. No TechnoSquare reflash. On a Vortech car, the flash will make it more difficult for you to tune with the Split Second box and R4 software. Only real gain you would get with a TS reflash would be to raise your rev limiter or to help handle bigger injectors if you go that way.
Based on what the little I can read from your post, I'd recommend getting cams, headers, and maybe the 3.12" or 2.87" pulley. Then shoot for low 400s. Anything higher than that is risking your bottom end.
So says the man tuned to 425rwhp and still driving his 17K miles later. :irock:
1. Agree, if you want 500rwhp, you should replace the bottom end.
2. Crawford plenum and new lower intake will be good for you. For the same price, the new Kinetix Intake Manifold would be a little better. Specifically designed for FI applications and shown to create a little more power than the upper plenum replacements.
3. A moderate step up would be to replace the cams, but they do make a big difference on an FI car. For FI applications, I'd recommend Nismo, Tomei mild grind, or the JWTs. I have the Nismos, but if I were doing it today, I'd buy the JWTs (they were not available when I did my build).
4. No TechnoSquare reflash. On a Vortech car, the flash will make it more difficult for you to tune with the Split Second box and R4 software. Only real gain you would get with a TS reflash would be to raise your rev limiter or to help handle bigger injectors if you go that way.
Based on what the little I can read from your post, I'd recommend getting cams, headers, and maybe the 3.12" or 2.87" pulley. Then shoot for low 400s. Anything higher than that is risking your bottom end.
So says the man tuned to 425rwhp and still driving his 17K miles later. :irock:
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why no ECU relash???? I thought you would be better off getting a reflash (as long as your local to AAM or TS so you can have a perfect tune) instead of using piggback.....can you give me the cons of going with a reflash beside having to get reflashed if you were to do upgrades in the future?
this is what I had planned for this fall hoping for 400whp
Vortech (tuner kit) w/8lbs pulley
380cc or 440cc injectors
AAM complete fuel return line
Walbro 255
Phunks CAS Wire
1-Step Colder plugs
Xerd long tube headers
Crafword plenum or Kitnex NEW FI manifold
JIC Y-pipe
AAM ECU Re-flashed dyno tuned.... do not want a piggyback installed.... I want the A/F & Timing all controlled by the ECU
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The Vortech piggybacks on the ECU. If you change the ECU parameters, you change the tuning conditions for the Split Second box. It is designed to work with a **stock** ECU, not a reflashed one.
I'm not saying it cannot be done, but you will likely have to be more diligent with your tuning.
The other issue is where you are. If you must ship your ECU for the flash, it will likely take more than one shipment to get it right. Each car is different. Add that different mods & combinations of mods on different cars have different effects and you wind up with a situation that is difficult to tune 'by mail', so to speak. I know this firsthand as my ECU was shipped back and forth to TS four times (before adding the Vortech) and never yielded any real gains.
The reflash **can** help, but it will likely require more time (to ship the ECU back and forth multiple times) and more effort (more tuning time to dial in correctly). You need to decide if it's worth that effort. I personally found that it wasn't.
On the otherhand, if you are close enough to get your car to TS for the reflash, I fully endorse that. It's much easier for them to dial in your ECU if they have access to your car on site.
BTW, yes, it is extremely safe to put cams in if you already have headers. In fact, you'll probably get more power from the combination of those two items than you would from either mod by themself.
I'm not saying it cannot be done, but you will likely have to be more diligent with your tuning.
The other issue is where you are. If you must ship your ECU for the flash, it will likely take more than one shipment to get it right. Each car is different. Add that different mods & combinations of mods on different cars have different effects and you wind up with a situation that is difficult to tune 'by mail', so to speak. I know this firsthand as my ECU was shipped back and forth to TS four times (before adding the Vortech) and never yielded any real gains.
The reflash **can** help, but it will likely require more time (to ship the ECU back and forth multiple times) and more effort (more tuning time to dial in correctly). You need to decide if it's worth that effort. I personally found that it wasn't.
On the otherhand, if you are close enough to get your car to TS for the reflash, I fully endorse that. It's much easier for them to dial in your ECU if they have access to your car on site.
BTW, yes, it is extremely safe to put cams in if you already have headers. In fact, you'll probably get more power from the combination of those two items than you would from either mod by themself.
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3 Posts
I plan on just ruuning the car off a remapped ecu I will not have the ss box installed and since AAM can remap ecu's my car will be on the dyno will they reflash so I will have a perfect tune.
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