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i've just got my car and it is idling smooth and fine. ECU was replaced only. old throtle body are working fine now. i didn't have to change them. means TBs were fine and my old ECU went crazy. it wasn't accepting the relearn due to some internal mulfuncation that Nissan didn't admit to. they said that i had to change both ECU& TBs which shows that the know nothing.
so, my advice to you is keep your TBs (more expensive than ECU) and change ECU to solve the idle problem or if someone can open ECU and fix it (250$) online.

happyness is not completed yet, now i have an issue with my trani. it is not shifting smoothly, i think because the ECU is not from the same region i'm in. my ECU is from GCC and the one i got is from USA. i'm trying to find a solution of find an ECU from same region.
this is for the update and i'll keep you posted. wish me luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Still waiting on new TBs to be shipped from USA... Hurricane Sandy delays I think. So I have no updates, but glad to hear you were able to fix things. Hopefully I will have all of this sorted before December when I have to get the car inspected and emissions tested.
 

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finally, my car is smooth again. i really miss the feeling and the sound of engine when it is quit. the ECU i got was for a manual trani, so i gave it back and put back my old stock ECU and wanted to order an ECU online that matchs my car spec. meanwhile, i was trying the relearn process every time i start the car. wala, it worked just like that when i thought it will not happen. after two months of suffering, suddenly the car accepted the relearn after i was tald that my TBs and ECU gone bad. it was the technicians brain that gone bad for telling such thing without making sure. most of technicians diagnosise are speculations and if you follow them .....? that could have cost me 2500$.
so, just keep trying the relearn piddle dance every time before you start your car and you might meet the moment that the car accept. i know the feeling, don't give up.
i have opened thoutle bodies they have nothing inside that could go wrong because of cleaning if you haven't missed with valve setting screws that is inside the black plastic cover that the wire harness connects to. just make sure everything is connected and attached properly and keep trying the relearn. it will work one day when all the parameters are right for the relearn to take place. wish you luck and people can benefit from our experiance.

before you start you car.
5. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch 'ON' and wait 3 seconds.
6. Repeat the following procedure quickly five times within 5 seconds.
a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal.
b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
7. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 20 seconds until the MIL stops blinking and turned ON.
8. Fully release the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the MIL goes off.
9. Start engine and let it idle.
10. Wait 20 seconds.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
And I just got my car back and it is not working right. Summary:

1) Nissan here says the new TBs I got are not the same, they don't have the Nissan-Renault stamp, and they seem to have a higher internal resistance than the originals.

2) They installed and got high-surging idle.

3) They got a 370Z in for service and put the 370Z throttle bodies on... works perfectly.

So now I am back at square 1, with 1 set of used G35 throttle bodies, 1 set of new generic Hitachi throttle bodies, and the original Z bodies.

FML really I am so sick of this.
 

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Hi!

I have a late 2007/early 2008 (not sure) coupe with the VQ35HR, about 20.000 miles. Since I bought the car about 2 weeks ago, I was experiencing poor gas mileage (under 14 mpg combined) and some hesitation/tendency to stall. Like an idiot, I decided to clean the throttle bodies (with TB/carb cleaner and a rag) and MAFs (electronic parts cleaner). Didn't unplug the TBs and didn't disconnect the battery, obviously like an idiot who has only had drive by cable cars I moved the throttle plates. Now I have the following problem:

Idle starts very high (2200 rpm). Used to start high, but not this high.
Settles at about 1500 after 30 seconds.
When the car is warmed up, idle fluctuates between 1500-2000 (feels like the car is accelerating by itself)
Horrible accelerator lag.
Horrible rev hang (and then begins fluctuating).
Horrible jerks when it gets back to the 1500 mark and is in gear.
Engine sounds different, shudders when I turn it off.

I have tried:
Disconnected battery for 48 hours (I think this made the problem even worse, which makes no sense)
Pedal dances: ECU reset, accelerator learn, TB learn, Idle Air Learn (with engine up to temp and all electrical load off)

None of which produced any results. The throttle plates do move during the TB learn (and indeed every time I switch the ignition off). Disconnecting the accerator position sensor stops the idle fluctuation and it idles at 1100... WTF.

The one thing I have not tried to do is search for a vacuum leak. The vibration when I turn the engine off points to a leak I think, but up to this point I have been wary of spraying carb cleaner all over searching for it.

Any other ideas before I break the engine down again or take it to the dealership?

EDIT: Also - doesn't throw any codes
I have same problem !07 350z & my idle fluctuate from 1500 to 2200 , please help! I replaced TB didn't work smoked if for vacuum leaks didn't work bought used ecu didn't work dealer couldn't figure it out they say car wont relearn to put stock exhaust back on . Was wondering if someone can help please!
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Ok, my problem is for the time being resolved:

Last week, I am about to take the car in and just pay through the nose for a fix. Service rep says before giving me the budget he's going to let the tech have one last try before ordering throttles.

I bring in the car with the original throttles, a pair of throttles from an 08 G35 with the HR motor that I bought used from Ebay, and a pair of new hitachi "brand scratched off" throttles that I bought from Parts Monster.

The tech got the car working on the used G35 throttles. According to him, the "brand scratched off" throttles have different factory positioning of the little screws on top. Rep called me and I told him to do the 40.000 km service. I got the car back and it's running great, Idle is even a bit low at 550-600, which is fine as the car passed emissions yesterday.

My advice to anybody who has "normal" ECM behavior and can't get new white box hitachi throttles to work is to try to source used original throttles from Ebay. It worked for me and I have literally been to 3 different dealerships, imported new or used parts 3 times, and it's been almost 6 months to the day since I originally f-ed up by cleaning. Good luck to everybody!
 

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I have a 2007 6spd with 67k miles on it and have this problem, from everything I've read so far this problem has either been fixed with new throttle bodies and/or a ECM? Has anybody else had this problem and fixed it another way?
 

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Dealership has repeatedly assured me this is not my problem... I will be pretty close to torching the car to collect insurance if I have to buy an ECU.

Good luck and keep us posted.
Did you ever fix the problem.... 1600 in the hoe....new t,b new ecu...ect ect ectttttt
......
 
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