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isn't that just a fancy name for a grounding kit???
the hyper-voltage system is a different unit which you hook up to the negative and positive terminals on the battery. It helps make the stereo louder and cleaner and gives a few hp/tq since there's less strain on the battery/alternator. Its fairly cheap, and I definitely noticed a difference.
 

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But Dynos can do nothing for the air environment. If you made the room cooler by 10 degrees you would see an improvement in dyno numbers with nothing else changing on the car. This would have NOTHING to do with the dyno being calibrated.

5 whp on a single run is not enough of a change unless you can see it across the board avg. of several runs.
Are you NOT reading my posts? The runs were 30 minutes apart... no change in temp. I saw a 4 whp gain comparing the best of 3 before runs to the worst of 3 after runs. If you average my runs, there was actually a 5 whp improvement.

EDIT: BTW, a 10 degrees difference in the room wouldn't matter if your dyno operator knew what they were doing. They would change the correction factor to compensate.
 

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Are you NOT reading my posts? The runs were 30 minutes apart... no change in temp. I saw a 4 whp gain comparing the best of 3 before runs to the worst of 3 after runs. If you average my runs, there was actually a 5 whp improvement.

EDIT: BTW, a 10 degrees difference in the room wouldn't matter if your dyno operator knew what they were doing. They would change the correction factor to compensate.
Please do not take this as sounding offensive. But do you have dyno output to show us? Where was the increase? Top, low, middle, all?

I trust you know a good bit about dynos and engines, I know a great deal about electricity (EE) and can not see how adding more copper will improve your spark unless you were not properly grounded to begin with.

And I went looking up what that "Hyper-Voltage" box does. Does anyone have a site that has a good review of it and what it does. It looks too much like snake oil to me. I can find sites that sell it for ~$200 but can not find any that have a objective review of it and what it exactly does.
 

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And I went looking up what that "Hyper-Voltage" box does. Does anyone have a site that has a good review of it and what it does. It looks too much like snake oil to me. I can find sites that sell it for ~$200 but can not find any that have a objective review of it and what it exactly does.
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I saw those and they do not tell me HOW it does this magic. The best I can guess is it is a capactior. But it is not big enough to be anywhere close to effective and is in the wrong location in your system to do any good (if it is a capacitor).

In its wiring setup "IF" it is a cap would stabilze the voltage across the battery which is useless while the car is running since the battery is just a load to the alternator while the car is running.

Again any links to objective sites (sorry neither of those count as objective since they are press releases and the companies site).
 

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I'd like to hear some more theories... this is what I'd call "edutainment". Education and entertainment all rolled into one!

Regards,
Ronin Z
 

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ok i think the concept is not being grasped by many people as to how it changes things with the computers and just what the kit changes so ill try to find a better worded explination since i am unable to clearly word this concept but also just to say i believe what a head mechanic says about a nissan and it was one thing that he had explained to me (both the idea and what is actually accomplished by a grounding kit)

so ill try to see what i can dig up on them, and on the idea of the 5 hp being a margine of error, why is it that bolt on mods such as just a simple intake ever disputed? just something to think about
 

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ok i think the concept is not being grasped by many people as to how it changes things with the computers and just what the kit changes so ill try to find a better worded explination since i am unable to clearly word this concept but also just to say i believe what a head mechanic says about a nissan and it was one thing that he had explained to me (both the idea and what is actually accomplished by a grounding kit)

so ill try to see what i can dig up on them, and on the idea of the 5 hp being a margine of error, why is it that bolt on mods such as just a simple intake ever disputed? just something to think about

This is very, very simple concept. It has NO!! effect on the cars computer electronics. It can have no effect on the computers. The "ground "wire from the engine to the frame is NOT part of the computer system's circuit. The engine ground wire is part of the spark plug circuit. The circuit supplying power to the computer and the circuits receiving status and delivering control to and from the compter are independent of the spark circuit.

A good analogy is household electrical circuits. If I go to my circuit box and disconnect the ground wire from one circuit, only the effected circuit will have power interuption. The remaining circuits are unaffected because the ground wire that was disturbed is not a part of the other circuits.

There is no magic here. It is basic circuit theory.
 

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This is very, very simple concept. It has NO!! effect on the cars computer electronics. It can have no effect on the computers. The "ground "wire from the engine to the frame is NOT part of the computer system's circuit. The engine ground wire is part of the spark plug circuit. The circuit supplying power to the computer and the circuits receiving status and delivering control to and from the compter are independent of the spark circuit.

A good analogy is household electrical circuits. If I go to my circuit box and disconnect the ground wire from one circuit, only the effected circuit will have power interuption. The remaining circuits are unaffected because the ground wire that was disturbed is not a part of the other circuits.

There is no magic here. It is basic circuit theory.
that is correct although that is just my point. there ARE ground wires from the ecu, it is not a part of the spark circuit, however the chassis is acting as the ground for every peice of electronics on the car, head unit, amp if u put one, the ecu. all of it is grounded to the chassis and the way that the block is grounded affects electrons etc in the chassis which does affect the computers and other components, that is why i was saying that i will try to find a clearer explination because it does change things
 

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that is correct although that is just my point. there ARE ground wires from the ecu, it is not a part of the spark circuit, however the chassis is acting as the ground for every peice of electronics on the car, head unit, amp if u put one, the ecu. all of it is grounded to the chassis and the way that the block is grounded affects electrons etc in the chassis which does affect the computers and other components, that is why i was saying that i will try to find a clearer explination because it does change things
NO this statement is COMPLETELY false and I can not let it stand. Making the engine "more" grounded (which it is or isn't but we will not discuss that) will NOT effect any part of the rest of the chasis ground.
 

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so ill try to see what i can dig up on them, and on the idea of the 5 hp being a margine of error, why is it that bolt on mods such as just a simple intake ever disputed? just something to think about
I wouldn't always support the idea that bolt-ons like cold air etc. give you gains, I've heard stories about cheap ones actually draining power in some situations. However, that being said, there are upsides (sound, presumably better airflow), that make sense to me. Whereas the effect decreasing the resistance that the ignition circuit has by a couple Ohms doesn't make sense to me. I will agree that they might due something if the wiring is truely lousy.

About the computer, low resistance wiring (the only thing I've seen these advertising), will only provide more voltage to the ecu etc. Once a computer is on, its on, so providing more power won't really help. On the other hand, better shielded, higher quality wires for the wiring harness might make the car run slightly smoother, as you'd get rid of noise on the sensors. Gains on the Audio side may occur, but again, I doubt that there would be that much affect, as the voltage is already adjusted by the head unit and amp.
 

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Please do not take this as sounding offensive. But do you have dyno output to show us? Where was the increase? Top, low, middle, all?

I trust you know a good bit about dynos and engines, I know a great deal about electricity (EE) and can not see how adding more copper will improve your spark unless you were not properly grounded to begin with.

And I went looking up what that "Hyper-Voltage" box does. Does anyone have a site that has a good review of it and what it does. It looks too much like snake oil to me. I can find sites that sell it for ~$200 but can not find any that have a objective review of it and what it exactly does.
I also am not trying to be offensive, but if you go back and read my posts, you'll see that I already stated that I gained 4 whp throughout the midrange, 3 whp at the peak and that the after dyno never dropped below the before dyno. Unfortunately, I lost some of my dyno charts when my server crashed. I had most of my stuff backed up, but some I didn't. For the record, I think grounding kits work because most cars are not properly grounded from the factory.

As for the Hyper-Voltage box, I think it's just a voltage stabilizer. Basically, it's an external regulator that supplies the ECU and coils with 14.4V, instead of the 12.5V to 13.8V that most electrical systems produce. I've never tested it, so I can't speak on it's benefits.
 

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I also am not trying to be offensive, but if you go back and read my posts, you'll see that I already stated that I gained 4 whp throughout the midrange, 3 whp at the peak and that the after dyno never dropped below the before dyno. Unfortunately, I lost some of my dyno charts when my server crashed. I had most of my stuff backed up, but some I didn't. For the record, I think grounding kits work because most cars are not properly grounded from the factory.

As for the Hyper-Voltage box, I think it's just a voltage stabilizer. Basically, it's an external regulator that supplies the ECU and coils with 14.4V, instead of the 12.5V to 13.8V that most electrical systems produce. I've never tested it, so I can't speak on it's benefits.
I was thinking voltage regulator too, however the way they have them connected across the battery would not work for a voltage regulator. It is a BAD idea to bump the voltage of the system while leaving the stock regulator in place never mind the ineffeciencies in doing such a task. Also the 350Z regulator is set to 14.4V from the factory according to my tests.
 

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I was thinking voltage regulator too, however the way they have them connected across the battery would not work for a voltage regulator. It is a BAD idea to bump the voltage of the system while leaving the stock regulator in place never mind the ineffeciencies in doing such a task. Also the 350Z regulator is set to 14.4V from the factory according to my tests.
The one's I've seen don't go across the battery, they go on the power wire from the battery to the main fuse box under the hood. This supplies the car's electrical system with 14.4V. I don't think any car has a regulator between the battery and the car. The regulator is usually between the alternator and the battery.
 

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and can not see how adding more copper will improve your spark unless you were not properly grounded to begin with.

For the record, I think grounding kits work because most cars are not properly grounded from the factory.

It is my opinion; that most gains from ground wires are because of this. ^
 

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I don't think any car has a regulator between the battery and the car. The regulator is usually between the alternator and the battery.
Exactly because you need to regulate the voltage coming out of the alternator since the voltage would otherwise vary with engine RPM and be too high. Putting a voltage regulator on a battery that is a sink for the electrical system does not make sense.

In case you do not know what sink means, it means that it is a drain on the system. A car battery does nothing for a car while it is running, all power is supplied by the alternator. A car batteries only purpose in life is to to power the starter motor to start the engine.
 

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About the computer, low resistance wiring (the only thing I've seen these advertising), will only provide more voltage to the ecu etc. Once a computer is on, its on, so providing more power won't really help. On the other hand, better shielded, higher quality wires for the wiring harness might make the car run slightly smoother, as you'd get rid of noise on the sensors. Gains on the Audio side may occur, but again, I doubt that there would be that much affect, as the voltage is already adjusted by the head unit and amp.

Wrong,wrong wrong!!!

Lower resistance will NOT provide more voltage to anything. The battery and alternator are the power supplies and supply a fixed voltage. Reducing resistance will increase current. In addition, electronic parts have specific voltage operating ranges. Operating parts outside of the ranges will cause damage (i.e. If 12 volts is good, 15 volts IS NOT better).

Furthermore, the amount of resistance in any piece of wire is insignificant when compared to the amount of resistance in the active circuit. The amount of resistance measured in any length of wire typically found in an automobile is going to be less than 1 ohm and typically less then 1/10 ohm. This resistance value can not be appreciably reduced and therefore any minute reduction in resistance will have no effect on the performance of the circuit.
 

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Exactly because you need to regulate the voltage coming out of the alternator since the voltage would otherwise vary with engine RPM and be too high. Putting a voltage regulator on a battery that is a sink for the electrical system does not make sense.
I understand how the electrical system in a car works. The purpose of the Hyper-Voltage kit is to provide a constant voltage to the car's electrical system (after the battery). Put a voltmeter on a car battery while the car is running. The voltage isn't constant. The car stereo world has been using voltage stabilizers to provide a constant 14.4V to amplifiers for years. I think the Hyper-Voltage system is basically the same device, but it's being used for the whole car's electrical system. As I said before, I haven't tested one, so whether or not this provides any benefit is to me unknown.
 
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