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QUOTE (voodoo_ca @ May 27 2008, 10:55 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=530981
Hey SmoothZ,

I was at the dealer yesterday getting an alignment and asked about the window motor.
It was $375 for the motor and $512 installed (I am in Canada)

I saw a few on Ebay for around 180USD and I have found a few at the wreckers for around $170 but I am concerned that they might have the sam problem because of their age.

Someone else gave me an idea to take it to a local motor specialist and see if they can do something with it (rebuild?)...

I might try that too...

I just hate the idea of tearing that whole door apart agian, putting it back together, and then having things not work 2 weeks down the road... I would rather just put the new motor in.

CK
I like the idea of taking it to a specialist. This has been happening for 5 years now, and I've yet to read a conclusive reason why. A pro looking at it might help with this. I've used similar motors before, and they had balls, so I'm surprised they break so easy. Any chance its heat or wear (motors can wear pretty quick) related?

~Pat
 

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Discussion Starter #22
QUOTE (NoZYet @ May 29 2008, 08:20 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=531481
I like the idea of taking it to a specialist. This has been happening for 5 years now, and I've yet to read a conclusive reason why. A pro looking at it might help with this. I've used similar motors before, and they had balls, so I'm surprised they break so easy. Any chance its heat or wear (motors can wear pretty quick) related?

~Pat
I might just suck it up tonight and pull the thing apart AGAIN... then bring it in to a specialist and see what the deal is.

Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr

CK
 

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Well, I thought about the switch itself as well, but the switch on the driver's side works for the driver's side window only. Also, I think the click is a good thing, because I used to have it and now I don't. I wonder if one can discern a clicking sound when using the switch on a window that works.
 

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A couple of weeks ago, I took it apart and really cleaned it (better than the last time). Since then, I've had no problems with the window. Seriously, I believe that it's a poorly designed housing unit since it seems that the inside of the unit gets so dirty and clogged up.
 

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Yikes, I know this is a very late reply, but Bob, the reason you don't hear a clicking could be because you are testing the window from the driver's side while you have the door dismantled on the passenger's side. The passenger side switches need to be connected in order for the driver's side switch to control it.

pce,
Matt
 

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Someone needs to build a brushless motor that will work with this...the problem in the window is the brushes wear down and the carbon gets into everything
 

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QUOTE (island03z @ Sep 2 2009, 01:53 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=582911
Someone needs to build a brushless motor that will work with this...the problem in the window is the brushes wear down and the carbon gets into everything
I had a 1988 300ZX prior to my 350 - I was the second owner and the original owner had every single service receipt - even things like "I hear wind noise" and the dealer would touch up the weatherstripping or whatever (they must have LOVED her!) Anyway, I sold that car in '03 with 165,000 miles on it. Both window motors were original and worked. That is 16 years. Nothing wrong with those motors and I am sure they had brushes. I firmly believe that some of the window motors in the earlier 350's were just plain garbage; my driver side failed at 2 years although the passenger side is still the original.
And what I really wish is that Nissan had designed the reset button so you did not have to remove the door liner - I have had that problem twice on the passenger side, and for now, I am just putting up with it backing down on auto-up by avoiding use of the auto up function. Still, annoying!! :banghead:
 

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I do this maintenance yesterday, cleaned with WD40, air compressor and a brush.
The hard part was to reensamble window motor. and there was noticeable speed on operation.

I suggest to do a proper clean and re-regrease on rails.
There is a faulty rail that marks the window every time when operate and i put a soft pad on the top of the front rail.

I´m glad that this community help us to get most of our nissan and to save a lot of money.
 

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Time to buy a new one. It's typically around $130 from any major auto parts store. Mine came with a limited lifetime warranty. I kept the receipt. Window works like a charm now.
 

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Window issue

Hey guys, brand new to the forum... I am a new owner of a 2004 350z, my issue im having is that my passenger side window is now rolling up or down... I click on the drivers side button to roll down the passenger side and i hear clicks but nothing happens... im not very hands on or technical when it comes to fixing automotive stuff so basic terminology when answering this issue would be much appreciated, Im thinking maybe taking the door panel off and possibly just doing what everyone else has been saying works which is to clean the motor or something like that... any suggestions
 

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You can do that but your motor is gone IMO. What you could do is I'd buy a new one and replace it and then see if you can clean up the old one to have a spare for when the new one breaks :)

I just replaced both the passenger and driver motors in my own Z after the passenger failed.
 

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Hey.

Both my drivers and passenger side windows both stopped working today - same issue as above with lots of clicking but no action up or down. Problem is, both windows were completely down when they stopped working. So, spent a few hours tonight pulling the drivers door to pieces, pulled the top off the motor and manually cranked the motor to get the window in some sort of 'up' position, and going to do the passenger side tomorrow.

Aust350Z - How much were the replacement motors for both doors and where did you get them from? I'm assuming you did the install yourself?? Before today I felt like the door was a bit of mystery to me but now I feel like i know it back to front after spending so much time with it in pieces!!!

Scott.
 

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Stomp= hey how long did it take you to take apart the door panel, i have no mechanical experience or anything like that. Im hoping it wont take to long for me to take it apart and just clean this motor thingee
 

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Hey,

The first time I did it it took over 2.5 hours to do the drivers side door. This was in a totally cramped environment (my garage is quite small), no prior knowledge of pulling doors / electric motors apart and a massively clueless assistant (my wife). After the 2 or 3 times we've pulled them apart and put them back together again Abby and I can now get the job done in well under an hour! :)

If you have literally ZERO mechanical 'experience' then it may be best to have someone who is confident taking things apart and putting them back together to give you a hand - however it is reasonably straight forward. If you have any issues or questions post them up here and I'll have a crack at answering them.

To answer my own question from above for anyone who's interested - looks like I'll most likely be getting my replacement motors from West Covina Nissan through eBay if shipping to Australia isn't prohibitively expensive....Nissan Australia wants ~$700AUD each for the window motors so ~$1400AUD all up! Rediculous!!!

Scott
 

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Door Window has no function

HeyGuys,
I have a 2003 350Z and the driverside window just went out. It was intermitten at first which suggested a bad connection in the wire harness, but after reading all the trouble of everyone's motor going out, I am not so sure now. What I do need though is anyone got a diagram on how to get the window/door disassembled with the window in the up position? I got all the inside panel bolts out and shes real tight still. I do not understand why someone doesnt design a friggin door so as to get to the motor without taken the whole friggin door apart!!!! Anyway, can anyone help me out, it would be greatly appreciated?
Thanks
Oh yeah, which wires on the back of the switch module/harness directly drives the driver's side window....
Thanks again...
 

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Keep trying. IIRC, my window was in the up position when I took everything apart. Just watch what you're doing closely so you know how everything comes apart and goes back together.
 

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ibldem - I don't think I understand your question. Is your window in the up position right now or down? If you need to disassemble your door and keep the window up then just use some duct tape to tape the window in position for when you pull the door apart?

Update for my situation - I've ordered 2 new motors from a US based Nissan dealer - $380AUD all up including shipping. Way better than the $1400 that Nissan AU quoted. Waiting for them to come in the mail!

Scott.
 

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Hello, newly registered to this forum but have learned from it in the past.

My lady's Z driver window is doing the occasional no-go-down stuff. I found, similar to what I have seen here: that if I push down on the window about a quarter inch, to take out the slack in the system - the window will operate.
Because the window is not dropping far enough, which is probably too much drag in the regulator cables and slides, some switch in the system is not closing. Pushing down on the window causes this switch to close.
When it is working, it works great. That tells me my motor is OK.
The sticky regulator (replaced 2-3 years ago) could be cleaned and re-lubed (What kind of lube should I use?)
Or do I need to replace one or the other? Which has the switch? (Duh, the one with the wires...)
How far down is the window really supposed to drop?
Thanks.
John
 

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Well, I did another exploratory surgery yesterday.
Decided the regulator was not 'broken' and is as well lubed better than I would get it if I were to replace all of the existing lube.
Pulled out the motor and disassembled it for clean-up. Quite a bit of carbon dust, and the armature was somewhat blackened. Blocked the worm-hole and blew off the brush assembly. Polished the armature with a strip of emery cloth, making it shine.
After reassembly, it is working like a charm.
Before the clean-up, I had moved things enough I had to reset the stop position. I could not get it to set correctly. The window kept wanting to stop 4-5 " down, could not even get it to go all the way up anymore. (This is the point where exploration became surgery.) After the cleanup, it set easily on the first try.

The window still does no more than 1-2 mm's drop when the door switch is released, but it is enough to clear the roof overhang. Gravity is just not pulling hard enough on it. Again I ask, How far down is the window really supposed to drop?

I have now entered this into the phone calendar to repeat the clean-up on a yearly schedule. This Z window is so easy to pull, and I still have some un-broken panel clips left, so we are OK.

John
 
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