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Discussion Starter #1
So I decided to dyno my car for the first time today. I'll break down the details:

2006 350Z Enthusiast (6MT)
JWT Popcharger
Stillen High Flow Cats
Stillen True Dual Exhaust

Up until this point, I knew it sounded beastly. And from my experience, it was noticeably more powerful after the mods. However, I felt like it would be about time to finally get some actual numbers and make sure I wasn't completely crazy.

I did three runs - 3rd, 4th, and 5th gear. The guy was pretty sure that 4th gear was 1:1, but I insisted that 5th was the way to go. While the curve wasn't quite as smooth as the first two, 5th gear had the best results.

The results:

Max Power = 255.35
Max Torque = 237.91


[attachment=26030:DYNO_3DEC08.jpg]


What do you guys think?
 

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Those are pretty good numbers for your mods, have you been to the dyno's before? I was at the dyno getting some tuning done yesterday, I've been several times and it still makes me nervous as **** when they get close to red line and it sound like the motors going to blow LOL. Know that your hooked what's your next mod? Headers, Plenum spacer and Mrev 2 would be a good choice.
 

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You were correct in that 5th gear is the one to be in for the dyno. Those numbers look good and seem typical for the 06 engine with your mods, give or take a few.

What are you thinking of for the next mod? I like the idea of a plenum spacer.
 

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5th is 1:1 and normally, that's the best ratio for dyno testing. I've found that for some reason, the Z seems to dyno artificially high in 5th. My car made 263whp in 4th and over 280whp in 5th. Mine had every NA bolt-on except cams. What were your 4th gear numbers?

255 is a bit high for just intake and exhaust.

EDIT: Also, I just noticed they used the STD correction factor. This is what shops use to make customers happy. Ask them to print you an SAE corrected dyno.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks, guys :)

i8acobra:
Here are my results from all three gears:
3rd: 247.12 whp, (no torque reading)
4th: 251.72 whp, (no torque reading)
5th: 255.35 whp, 237.91 lb-ft

I'm not sure if the STD smoothing factor really modifies the results much further than smoothing out the variation in the curve and eliminating a bit of the noise and statistical outliers. I know that at one point, my torque reading was at 300, but he eliminated that as an outlier (which it was, looking at the trend of the curve). The fact that he was still insistent, after it all, that the 5th gear wasn't 1:1 (he pointed to the relative roughness of the curve as an indicator) leads me to think he wasn't inclined to really fudge those numbers in my favor.

Now the STD factor listed at the bottom - which may be what you're actually referring to - is a mystery to me. A value of 0.98 seems like it would reduce the number. My best guess, given that I don't know nearly as much as a lot of you guys on the forums, is that it was a reducing factor in this instance because it was a bit cold. But like I said, it's just a guess. I don't necessarily know how they do some of these things.

----

NEXT MOD?
Shoot. I'm in a bit of a dilemma on this one. I don't think I'll buy anything really expensive soon, as I just bought a $1200 assault rifle (thank Obama's plans for an AR ban for sparking that purchase). However, the next mods I'm leaning toward aren't necessarily expensive, so I don't know. Right now, I'm thinking one of the following:
- Motordyne MREV2
- Motordyne 5/16" spacer (these would be simultaneous purchases to cut down on personal labor)
- Cobb Tuning AccessPort or UpRev Osiris

I'm thinking that if I get the first two and freeing up some flow on the other end of the cylinders, I'll be at the point where I need the third. I don't know if I would really benefit from just the third, which almost sets that out as a definite roadmap. I'm unsure. Any suggestions?

- As a side note, my dealership is pretty awesome, and they will actually install and cover anything Stillen or Nismo on my car. As such, I'm thinking of just getting the Motordyne parts through Stillen and having them cover it all. That way, I'll keep my lovely warranty on my car which only has 21,500 miles. I still need to check with them on that.

So the numbers are pretty good? I've been worried after my trip to the drag strip (14.6...I made a sad little post on that one). I had chalked it up to being a series of bad launches, but was concerned that maybe I had a bit of a wimp on my hands. Actually, on that, I have two questions:
1. Confirming, these are good numbers? About what is expected... more, less?
2. Based on the dyno chart, would the best place to shift be somewhere around 6000rpm? I'm unsure of how this translates into suggested application and would love some advice.

Thanks, guys.
 

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QUOTE (NAGA @ Dec 4 2008, 06:07 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=561905
Thanks, guys :)

i8acobra:
Here are my results from all three gears:
3rd: 247.12 whp, (no torque reading)
4th: 251.72 whp, (no torque reading)
5th: 255.35 whp, 237.91 lb-ft

I'm not sure if the STD smoothing factor really modifies the results much further than smoothing out the variation in the curve and eliminating a bit of the noise and statistical outliers. I know that at one point, my torque reading was at 300, but he eliminated that as an outlier (which it was, looking at the trend of the curve). The fact that he was still insistent, after it all, that the 5th gear wasn't 1:1 (he pointed to the relative roughness of the curve as an indicator) leads me to think he wasn't inclined to really fudge those numbers in my favor.

Now the STD factor listed at the bottom - which may be what you're actually referring to - is a mystery to me. A value of 0.98 seems like it would reduce the number. My best guess, given that I don't know nearly as much as a lot of you guys on the forums, is that it was a reducing factor in this instance because it was a bit cold. But like I said, it's just a guess. I don't necessarily know how they do some of these things.
"STD" is the correction factor. Your "smoothing" is set to 5, which is the industry norm. I set it on 5 when testing for a number and set it to 2 when tuning. At .98, the CF is reducing your number slightly. however, the SAE correction would probably lower it a bit more (SAE numbers are always a little lower than STD, this is why shops use STD). Despite what your tuner told you, 5th is 1:1 in the Z. In cars fitted with a T-56 or Tremec 6060 6-speed ('Vette, F-Body, Cobra, Viper, etc...), 4th is 1:1 because they have a double overdrive.

Based on your 4th gear numbers, I'd say you're probably right around 246-247whp SAE. Those are still very good numbers though. My car has bee de-modded to where I only have a CAI, full exhaust and pulleys and I just made 248whp with my oil consuming '06 6-speed. I have more mods, but I'm also burning oil, so us being pretty equal in the power dept. leads me to believe your numbers are pretty accurate in 4th gear.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
QUOTE (i8acobra @ Dec 4 2008, 12:15 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=561919
"STD" is the correction factor. Your "smoothing" is set to 5, which is the industry norm. I set it on 5 when testing for a number and set it to 2 when tuning. At .98, the CF is reducing your number slightly. however, the SAE correction would probably lower it a bit more (SAE numbers are always a little lower than STD, this is why shops use STD). Despite what your tuner told you, 5th is 1:1 in the Z. In cars fitted with a T-56 or Tremec 6060 6-speed ('Vette, F-Body, Cobra, Viper, etc...), 4th is 1:1 because they have a double overdrive.

Based on your 4th gear numbers, I'd say you're probably right around 246-247whp SAE. Those are still very good numbers though. My car has bee de-modded to where I only have a CAI, full exhaust and pulleys and I just made 248whp with my oil consuming '06 6-speed. I have more mods, but I'm also burning oil, so us being pretty equal in the power dept. leads me to believe your numbers are pretty accurate in 4th gear.
I'm confused. Why, despite the fact that I already have a CF reducing my number and the fact that 5th gear is the correct ratio, are my 4th gear numbers a more accurate reflection of my car's power output? And even then, why would you reduce my 4th gear numbers (251.72whp) to a range of 246-247?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Okay. I did the responsible thing and went out and did some research on SAE vs. STD dyno numbers and found some very helpful/enlightening information. Now your comment makes a lot more sense. You were mentally converting my STD-converted dyno results to a roundabout SAE number range.

That's cool. However, I still don't understand why you were doing that with my 4th gear data instead of my 5th gear data (since 5th is 1:1).

Also, have you done any 1/4 mi. runs since de-modding? If so, what did you get?
 

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I'm suggesting that your 4th gear numbers are more accurate based on my experience dyno testing Z's. For some reason, the numbers in 5th always seem to be inflated. I don't know why. I just know that my car dynoed 281whp with all of my mods in 5th and 263whp in 4th. Based on my 1/4 mile of 13.7 @ 98mph, the 263 number seems more accurate. I've also tested a few other Z's that read high in 5th, for some reason.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Well, I got back from Uprev with my car finally tuned properly.

On their dyno, with the base tuned map, I dyno'd at 259whp and 243wtq.

After the tune, I'm getting 271whp and 252wtq, with an additional 16+whp and 13+wtq at 6600rpm. The car pulls WAY harder than it did.

(These were 4th gear numbers with an SAE conversion factor.)

I'm looking forward to getting back to Tulsa and putting it on the original dyno for a more complete comparison.
 
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