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Discussion Starter #1
I'm so mad! :xZ!o: My 91K mile '03 has been absolutely problem free, not one problem, until now! I got a strange urge to look around under the car after I got home last night and I saw the infamous black liquid on the rear subframe!

Has anyone dealt with this issue? I absolutely can not spend the $1300 to have Nissan replace the rear subframe. It is my understanding that the bushing is not sold separately. Has anyone tried these:

SPL PRO SOLID DIFFERENTIAL BUSHINGS For NISSAN 350Z :: Rods, Arms, Bars :: Suspension :: 03-UP 350Z (Z33) :: Nissan :: Speed Alliance

I have no idea how to install these and it sounds like a daunting task to me. Do you have to drop the rear subframe to install this? Can I do this with common hand tools, a jack, and a couple stands?
 

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by rear subframe, do you mean the whole differential? ...yes, you gotta drop the diff...
Here's the dealio, those stock bushing are soft so they can break (enter you). You have a couple options.
1. Those solid bushing you posted are awesome (so I hear, I have looked into them myself). They are a PITA to install (actually, mostly the old ones are a PITA to remove). IF you do it yourself, that is your cheapest and best performing option.
2. Just buy a whole new differential. You can get a whole vlsd pumpkin for 3-400$ All the will require is dropping the old pumpkin and putting the new one in its place.

Hope this helps a little...
 

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I did this install with the car up on stands in my driveway. My pics of the tools i used are on the second last page of the thread. It's not that hard of an install at all, just be prepared to use alot of elbow grease.
 

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I picked up a solid bushing, and I'm going to have it installed in the near future.

It's annoying me that Whiteline does a polyurethane replacement for the front diff bushings, but it the rear bushings that have a reputation for dying. I waited a year for them to release it when they told me they were working on it, and then it turns out its the wrong fucking components.

monk13 - where's your install thread?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Scathing: The install is discussed in the thread that I posted above in post #3. Whiteline didn't make a urethane rear bushing for the diff because urethane will "cold flow" over time due to pressure. With the weight of the diff constantly on a urethane bushing, it would sag over time.

Willy: The bushing is press fit into the subframe and Nissan sells the bushing WITH the subframe...for $1300! So you have to drop the diff AND the subframe if you intend to use a press to remove the bushing the "proper" way.


I am going to get the bushing and give it a go sometime this month. I know that the bushing is awesome, but I am concerned about just getting the rear bushing and leaving the squishy front stock bushings in. Some people were discussing in that thread about how they thought that the stud could shear off the back of the diff due to torque put on the diff front squishy stock bushings allowing the diff to rotate. I know it's not likely but I really don't want solid bushings on the front too due to gear noise. Maybe I should get the Whiteline bushings for the front?
 

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monk13 - where's your install thread?
I didn't do an install thread as such, just added to the thread already there. If I had thought about it previously I would of made up a detailed one with millions of pics, but at the time I was pissed at the Mrs, and working on the car was a great escape.

Copy n pasted from the other thread:

Bumping this thread again. Spent the last couple of days doing some work on my Z, and these bushes were on the list. This thread was very helpful due to the fact that I knew I didnt have to press the bushes out. In hindsight however maybe I should of as they were a MAJOR PITA. I ended up ghetto rigging a press of sorts for the subframe bush, and belting the absolute crap out of the diff ones. The ghetto rigged press will probably come in handy for others so heres a couple pics.

Tools: Big G clamp and a 2 1/4" socket (had one handy but something else of similar size will do)


Socket placement


Clamp placement


Put the tool that comes with the kit on the rear side of the bushing and use it to center the clamp. Start winding the clamp in. IT WILL BE TIGHT, I got around this by putting a big spanner on the end of the clamp and using that as extra leverage. The socket is big enough to fit over the lip that the bush sits in, and will catch the bush as it falls out.

I really should of thought to of taken photos as I was doing it, but I got a little tunnel vision and wanted it done. Hopefully it gives the DIYers out there a few ideas.

Shane.
A socket that large wouldn't be easy to come by for most people unfortunately, Luckily both myself and my next door neighbor work on a mine site and seem to acquire the odd bit of massively over sized tooling...


I probably could of gotten away with not sanding, as the couple of ridges that were there were tiny, but I gave it a quick hit with a sandpaper attachment thingy for the old hand drill (READ: a couple seconds, as I didnt want to take much off the surface. see pic)



I also used the freezing the bush thing as well.
I have been running these bushes for around 20,000 km's now, and have had no drama's. Fire away with any questions desired. Or if anyone in Perth wants a set installed, and is willing to use their car as a tech-write up- demo car, let me know.

Shane
 

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I'm so mad! :xZ!o: My 91K mile '03 has been absolutely problem free, not one problem, until now! I got a strange urge to look around under the car after I got home last night and I saw the infamous black liquid on the rear subframe!
Ok. I didn't know we had liquid in any of our bushings. I did have some dark gray fluid on my diff and rear subframe once (after a two-day event). But after asking around, I was told that I had boiled my differential fluid and it had "vented" all over the diff.

I changed the differential fluid the same weekend and all has been well since. (3 events and one two-day school).

My times have been consistent (on our test & tune track) before and after I noticed the issue, so if something else was at play, neither my times, nor my "seat dyno" have noticed.:dunno:
 

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Ok. I didn't know we had liquid in any of our bushings. I did have some dark gray fluid on my diff and rear subframe once (after a two-day event). But after asking around, I was told that I had boiled my differential fluid and it had "vented" all over the diff.

I changed the differential fluid the same weekend and all has been well since. (3 events and one two-day school).

My times have been consistent (on our test & tune track) before and after I noticed the issue, so if something else was at play, neither my times, nor my "seat dyno" have noticed.:dunno:
...that was my next question... So what???...is the difference noticeable??

...BTW, here is a step by step DIY for an LSD and those bushings... I have been studying the past few weeks because I intend to do both...

DIY: Cusco LSD Type RS+SPL Solid Bushings (Home Install) - MY350Z.COM Forums
 

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Can anyone confirm or deny that the Z has liquid-filled bushing for the subframe? (or anywhere for that matter)
confirm.

"The stock silicone filled differential bushing is notorious for tearing under hard driving (characterized by black streaks on the rear subframe from dried silicone leaked from the bushing)."
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Can anyone confirm or deny that the Z has liquid-filled bushing for the subframe? (or anywhere for that matter)
You seem confused. Let me try to clear this up. There are three bushings that hold the differential to the rear subframe. The one on the center of the back of the diff is fluid filled and has a tendency to tear allowing the silicone oil to leak onto the aluminum subframe, NOT the diff. There are also bushings that hold the subframe to the unibody. I don't know if any of the other bushings are fluid filled but AT LEAST this one is.

The point of me saying this is that you most likely didn't tear the bushing if the fluid was on the diff and not the subframe.

Why does it matter if it's torn? Without the fluid in the bushing, there is even MORE movement allowed in the differential. This creates MORE wheel hop on launches, unpredictable handling, and possible increased wear on the transmission output gears.
 

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confirm.

"The stock silicone filled differential bushing is notorious for tearing under hard driving (characterized by black streaks on the rear subframe from dried silicone leaked from the bushing)."
Would I feel it if it tore? What are the other symptoms? Would I be able to "see" if my bushing is in good health or not, just from looking at it?
 

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The point of me saying this is that you most likely didn't tear the bushing if the fluid was on the diff and not the subframe.
It was on both.

IIRC, it looked like more fluid than that bushing would hold , and it was on stuff above the bushing too. More consistent with "venting" fluid under pressure than a leak.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
IIRC, it looked like more fluid than that bushing would hold , and it was on stuff above the bushing too. More consistent with "venting" fluid under pressure than a leak.
Yep. It probably vented out of the diff vent.
 

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Just took a peek under the car, I see which bushing you're talking about in the subframe now... I was only thinking of the 2 smaller ones. I would guess that it would be much easier to remove that subframe, but the SPL bushings come with a driver to remove the bushing from the subframe, so it may be very possible to do it on the car. ...can't say either way with 100% certainty bc I haven't done it yet...
 

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Now I'm paranoid, so I just went out and took some pics. I cleaned the diff cover before I changed the fluid so I just circled the area that was covered with fluid before..



Here are some remnants still there from a few months ago...


Stuff I never bothered to clean...


And some "splatter" way back, above the exhaust.



Now for the important question.

If this is the bushing, Should I not take it to ZdayZ like this? Can I wait and fix it this summer on the off-season, or should I make a B-line for the nearest shop?

Like I said, the car "feels" good, and still matches my best times, but I don't want to drive it if I am "hurting" it.
 

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How long ago was it??
 

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well mine hasn't torn so I can't say for sure, but the consistency of that fluid and the fact that it looks like it originated near the bushing seems suspect... The OP can probably give a little better insight...
 
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