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Yep no f##king traction, my tyres are way to hard they messured 76duro which is around 25duro higher than a new set of tyres. I don't think I'd buy the Yokohama AVS 102 again they don't have as much grip as the OEM Bridgestone's go figure. My last run of the day was 13.6 with a terminal speed around 114mph if my memory serves me correctly, I had to play with the throttle in 1st and 2nd to try and eliminate wheel spin, there is definately a 12sec run in the car I know it!!

Cheers :cheers:
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
You should get some drag radials and put them on your stock wheels in the rear. Hoosier have just released some which seem better than other offerings. They will knock more than a second off that time easily and are a good idea if your serious about improving it. There is a tyre guide in Zoom which lists the drag radials available and they also put the Hoosiers on their editors car and they made a 0.7sec improvement over their previous time with some other drag radials so imagine the improvement going from crappy street tyres.
 

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im hanging to see some low 12s, c'mon Davey get ur act together :cheers:

if u still have ur stock 18s, id put the drag radials on those. Jack the car up and slide them on when u go to the drags, and as a bonus leave the white number on ur window and cruise chapel with the stockies on the back bro fully sik
 

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I find my S0-3 Also no good. Can't get the traction as much. Always wheel spin alot. Maybe need a camber kit.

what do you reckon davidm and Davidc? :)
 

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Always wheel spin alot. Maybe need a camber kit.

What do you wnat to acheive withthe camber kit? Camber kit will give you a bigger range for the camber setting. Though my rear camber is set at -2.0deg and I'm not complaining. Not that I could not use more grip, but I don't feel like the camber is the limiting factor for me ... more so the grip of the tyres.

ps. I pressume you want to have less camber ... can't you set less camber on your car even without camber kit?
 

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sorry to hijack the thread a bitt

But how much did the tt setup cost you? What have you had to change, i know i should search, but getting first hand opinion from someone whos actually done it (instead of talking about it) would be good :)

Cheers mate, and great car you got there
 

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how did i know someone would say that... i have searched and every post just generalises "15k" or comments on how much of a difference it makes. Theres nothing on what parts are given in this system.

Once again thanks for useless post.
 

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Originally posted by nicecar@Sep 8 2005, 11:27 AM
how did i know someone would say that... i have searched and every post just generalises "15k" or comments on how much of a difference it makes. Theres nothing on what parts are given in this system.

Once again thanks for useless post.
[snapback]153452[/snapback]​


This might help you out.

http://www.airpowersystems.com.au/350z/350z.htm

Let me know if you need any other information. :cheers:

Peter
 

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I think part of the problem is that the 350Z's rear suspension is to firm for fast of the line launches, it doesn't allow the transfer of weight to the rear and the wider the tyres are the less the amout of weight per square inch down force forcing the rubber into the road, the SL55 has much softer rear suspension but can still light up the rears.

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think part of the problem is that the 350Z's rear suspension is to firm for fast of the line launches, it doesn't allow the transfer of weight to the rear and the wider the tyres are the less the amout of weight per square inch down force forcing the rubber into the road,


The simplest and easiest way would be too decrease the spring rate in the rear, problem is you're stuck with it all the time - even when you don't need it.

You could also decrease the bump rate in the rear shocks to try to speed up the weight transfer. With a shock you can decrease the bump rate so you speed up the weight transition - May be worthwhile and not too expensive exercise to try and increase your rear end contact patch.
 

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is the stiff rear springs the reason for the aweful front wheel drive style axle tramp?

would fitting softer rear springs solve this? If so, im slapping some Hotchkis springs on the cc right now.......i finally buy a rwd car, and i cant have any fun wheel spinning :xZ!o:
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
No, I think your best bet is to get an engine damper (said to improve it most of the time ~50%) and upgrade to the Nismo bushings. So traction is overcome straight away, without these areas flexing as the wheels grab for traction. The 300zx had the same issue, theres a 300zx project car out there which they installed sperical bearings on which removed all axle tramp, these would be alot stiffer than the Nismo ones though.
 

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i cant really understand how an engine damper would reduce axle tramp. Without any engine movement, all that energy is going to instead vibrate through the interior

so what ur saying is make the rear more rigid via bushings? i thought the axle tramp happens because of the rigidness?
 
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