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· Registered
4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I have a 2006 350Z with 104xxx miles, and the throwout bearing is starting to make quite a bit of noise. So, I have decided to replace the clutch while I already have the transmission out, but I have a couple of questions.

I have done a massive amount of research on clutches and flywheels for the 350Z, and I know that single mass flywheels cause an increase in noise, usually at idle and at low RPMS. However, I believe that my car is still on it's original clutch and flywheel, and it makes similar noises to what I've heard described, and what I've heard on youtube videos.

Also, since I purchased the car with 69xxx miles on it, the clutch has felt unlike any I have ever operated. I've owned several cars with manual transmissions, and driven more than that, but this clutch is the worst I have ever used. The friction zone is unpredictable, the engagement is not at all smooth, and sometimes it honestly makes me not enjoy driving the car. That being said...

First question:
Can I keep my stock dual mass flywheel, and replace the clutch with an OEM or aftermarket clutch?
I know that dual mass flywheels cannot be readily resurfaced, and I do not want to pay $900 for a new dual mass flywheel from Courtesy Parts. However, it seems like over 100,000 miles would be too much to reuse the original flywheel.

Second question:
If it is determined that I cannot reuse my stock dual mass flywheel, what can I do to minimize the noise/"chatter" that results from using a single mass flywheel?
I am looking at either the Southbend "quiet disk" clutch with their billet flywheel, the JWT clutch & flywheel, or the "Nismo sports clutch kit" (single plate, not the twin). I have heard that a heavier flywheel can reduce noise when dealing with the single masses, which is why I am considering the Southbend or the Nismo for the flywheel. I will be ordering a stainless steel clutch line, and Nismo roller bearing pilot bushing with whichever I end up choosing.

Third question:
Does anyone have any suggestions on why my stock clutch/flywheel would be sounding and behaving in the manner it is? Other than just the throwout bearing needing to be replaced. And do you think that this issue could be corrected by replacing the clutch/flywheel? I'd really like to enjoy shifting this car as much I as used to enjoy shifting my S13 and S14.

Pertinent information:
The 350Z is my daily driver, and I put a lot of miles on it each year.
I prefer to minimize noises such as the infamous "chatter" as much as possible.
The transmission oil I use is the OEM oil purchased from Courtesy (75W-85, if I recall correctly).

Thank you very much for your time!

· Premium Member
39,216 Posts
Hi, there.

I recently replaced my transmission AND the clutch/FW. My synchro was bad. I bought all the replacement parts from Z1 in Georgia. My clutch/FW combo is their mild street version, which is very close to stock.

A couple of us have driven the Z since the upgrade, and there is no noise difference. It does seem to spin faster and climb the RPM quicker, but that's it.

· Registered
59 Posts
Like smooth said, I too just replaced my trans, clutch, and flywheel due to the syncro issue. I bought the JWT clutch/FW kit from Z1. I can notice noise while driving (the "chatter" sound), but it is nowhere near loud enough to be bothering. Nobody other than me noticed the sound difference inside the car so it isn't loud, but it is there

· Registered
42 Posts
I'm in a similar spot, except my TO bearing isn't squawking, oddly enough my neighbors is though....
I'm going to replace my clutch. I'm running 7 lbs of boost making about 400hp and 315 lbs torque. I see there are a few clutch kit options. Has anyone used an ATS carbon clutch in this forum? If so, is it that much better than the spec? Other options are exedy and JWT, but I'd prefer to spend $ on quality, so $2k for a clutch isn't unreasonable, it's a matter of do I have to spend that much given the power I'm making.....

Lastly, I'm replacing the syncros as third gear is still **** under hard driving, missing about 30% of the time. Any thoughts in terms of syncros or should I just buy OEM for a 05 model?
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