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Hi guys,

As many of you know, I installed hotchkis springs and sways a few weeks ago. I have had them not for about 3 weeks and 600-800 miles.

About a week after my front sway install, I noticed going over bumps was making a strange clunking noise. At first I wasn't too worried, but then it just got aggravating and started worrying me. So, I looked under the car to find one of the plastic undercarriage bolts had come loose. I put a new one in and the next day took my car to school. The clunk was still there.

Frustrated I knew it had to be the sway bar. I went home and got under my car, felt around on both sides and realized my passenger side sway end-link was NOT torqued down at all. I could actually loosen and tighten the bolt with my hand! So, I took the wheel off, etc, and re torqued the end-link down HARD.

This also prompted me to check the driver side and make sure everything was fine there to, which it was. I put everything back together and took if for a hard drive. The clunk was gone!


Then fast-forward two weeks, the car has gone to Nissan for the rear axle clicking TSB and also to get an alignment etc. It comes home with the steering wheel uncentered (still need to address that with them but finals are all week) but everything else was fine. Two days later, I start getting the clunking noise back. It starts after a long drive out to visit the girlfriends parents (about 35 minutes).

Well, I instantly thought okay I just need to retorque it again, no big deal right? Of ccoursewe all know things can't be that easy. Yesterday I get under my car, feel around, seems like both end-links are on there TIGHT. So I feel around some more, everything seems to be perfect. I decide to take the wheels off on both sides and double check everything just in case. I do and the bolts were torqued so tight that I ccouldn'tget either side to bbulge

So the MotherF-------- clunk is STILL happening. Then this morning I get online and type in something to the like of 'hotchkis noise' and it pulls up a series of random things. Some talk about the bushings not being greased enough, some about the end-link thing happening (glad I am not the only retard that had this happen), and then I see a third set of problems people are having. The problem actually having nothing to do with the new suspension at all, but the wishbone (upper wishbone arm) in the suspension.

I found this link in the thread: http://www.350zforum.com/tech/frontleftclu...tleftclunk.aspx

I immediatly printed it and have decided this MF clunk needs to be fixed before Zdays (and it WILL BE!). Well, next week after finals let up I am going to go ahead and perform this. It seems like this could definitely be the problem, and I am willing to give it a try. This makes a bit of sense, as well, when you install a new set of springs and sways, your suspension is going to be working a tad harder on turns, bumps, etc. and the could cause bolts (not properly torqued by the factory) to become noisy.


Sorry for the long post, I just need to get all of this off my chest! What do you guys think? Worth a shot right?
 

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i too had the clunk noise.. but mine was pretty bad.. under heavy braking, there would be a loud clunk and even something seemed to "shift" or the suspension compressed suddenly..

I ran across Nissan TSB to fix the clunk noise and it related the problem to the Control Arm Torque.. I had my Cusco arms on order and wanted to wait for them before tearing my front end down..

Well after reassembling everything --- NO CLUNK! haha weird

oh yeah and i modded my Cusco arms to get more camber adjustment.. worked perfectly.

As a side note, A torque wrench will not fit on those bolts unless you take the shocks out.. This sucks, but if you dont want it to be a 3-4 hour project you could try removing the front wheels and tightening the bolts with a LARGE hand wrench.. If it doesnt work, you could then take the whole front end apart and get a torque wrench in there..

We have the TSB here: http://www.350z-tech.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=819
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Well, Like I said, for now I can deal with it. But as soon as I get a good 3-4 hours free I am going to tackle this and take it all apart again. My birthday is coming very soon and I plan on getting a set of air tools, maybe I can get them a bit early for myself and work on getting this fixed. Either way I have to take the strut out, so I might as well do it right the first time.
 

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I have this problem and my Z is a 2004...I bought it used and the origanal owner picked it up in April or 2004. I have an appointment with the dealer this friday. Is the TSB for the 2004s as well or only the 2003s? I dont want the dealership to try and charge me to torque down bolts....is there anything else to it than that?

By the way I have completely stock suspension and wheels....only mod currently is a JWT pop charger...
 

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Mine is a 2004. The TSB only states for 2003, but obviously it was never fixed at the factory..
 

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should I fix this myself then? is it just torqueing down bolts? the links posted above, are the adequent enough to fix the problem if I follow the instructions?
 

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We should have a full writeup on the A-Arm installation..

But yes, torqueing the bolts is all thats required.. The problem is the bolts are hard to tighten without taking the shocks out.. Give it a shot..
 

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ok, thanks toykilla...i will give it a shot....
 

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Discussion Starter #10
you can not get a ratchet behind there without taking out the shock/strut. all you can fit it a wrench so to adequately torque it to the spec ft/lbs you will need to remove the shock/strut. It is a pain and takes some time.

either way I need to do this soon, its only when my car is under 50 mph and it does it constantly when i am on some sort of downslope or small bump (not very abrupt) over 50 it doesnt do it at all. weird isnt it
 

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well I too need to get this fixed before ZDayz....what harm does this problem cause? Is there just the risk of the bolts coming off or is there other risks if this isn't fixed?
 
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