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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i was looking around this forum to see what everyone has been doing regarding oil changes. some people use ramps, which is a good idea if you live in an apartment complex, but i used the factory jack and a floor jack(cheapie)

as i look under the car i see all the bolts that need to come of. there are about 12 or 14 of them.

obviously i did not count them.

the two in the far back need to be removed with a retchet set, so you dont get frustrated, and all of the oter ones need to be losened.

as i remove them i start from the back and move up to the front. the bolts are lined up in sections.

back, middle, and front.

the sway bar in the front is HUGE!

changing the oil now is easier than changing it in my civic.

as you remove the oil drain bolt line up the drain pan edge to the drain hole.

the oil flows out predictably, not like on the company ford ranger truck i changed the oil on and the oil overshot the drain pan and got all over the concrete, there was good design here. when its done draining put the plug back in and tighten it.

next move over to the filter, and line up the pan to the middle of the area where the oil filter mates up with the engine.

as you unscrew it, it fals right into the oil pan just perfectly. lubricate the new oil filter rubber seal and hand tighten.

i only needed one paper towel and used it to clean up and dry my hands.

i really enjoyed the oil change because it was not messy at all.

i replaced the bottom cover reverse of the order i took it off, lowered it and started her up after i filled it up with the recommended 5 quarts of oil.

NO PROBLEMS AT ALL!!!

the only thing i did not like was that one of the far back bolts was cross threaded in and the center one was missing.

i bought my car used 2005 with 4900 miles on it from a nissan dealership. looks like they did the irst oil change, and cross threaded the bolt and lost the other one.

i rethreaded the bolt hole and swaped screws from one of the front bolts that used a clip. everything is ok now.

just for reference i used a fram filter and valvoline oil. i have never had any problems using these parts in all of my cars so figured what the heck.

any way thats my oil change experience.
 

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I have a 3.5 ton jack and still prefer using my plastic rhino ramps for oil changes. Also, the factory jack is a joke, be very careful with it. Some have reported their snapping and the car collapsing.

The center is one of those snap fasteners like the ones that hold the top of the bumper on. If they get hit with a rock, they hold steady but usually wont survive the next removal and need to be replaced.

I usually don't wait for all the oil to drain before taking off the old filter. Gives me something to do while I wait but I make it a point not to get out from under there until it's all back together.

If you have an Injen CAI now is the time to clean that too. I bought a second one so I can clean one and have it waiting long before I need it.

Chris
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
i cut the old filter in half.

Now where is that check valve supposed to be!!!!

hmmmmm???????????

doesn't look like there is one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
hey hyper thanks for the advice on the factory jack.

it looks like the same size as a honda civic jack. i guess i'll save it for emergency only.

i'll get those ramps later. autozone has them for 39.99

my car is completely stock and have not done anything to it yet.

i feel like such a newbie. after selling my civic and integra to get this car now i have to start from the begining.

i figured start fast and end up faster.

ive always had my engines built and used nitrous oxide in all of my cars.

i have never went turbo before.

i'm assuming most if not all turbo kits come with an intake already.

one thing i will get though is a greddy exhaust. i had it on both my other cars and love the sound. i want the dual muffler setup.

anyways thanks for the advice.

by the way the car runs totally smoother now. and seriously i think it is due to the fram filter. no problems and the oil pressure gage looks normal to me.
 

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i cut the old filter in half.

Now where is that check valve supposed to be!!!!

hmmmmm???????????

doesn't look like there is one.

:rolf2:

You can use what you like. Your car , right?

FWIW, there are 2 oil filters that can be used from nissan. One is longer, one is shorter. One of them is very popular, and the other is not. Perhaps you've found out why the one isn't.

I was just stating the FYI for your info. I'm not trying to sell you oil or tell you what parts to put on the car. Believe and use what you like.
 

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also FWIW, the Fram may indeed have a anti-drainback valve in it. I pulled up a list of oil filters and it seems some fram and purolater use them.

I just didn't want you having any grief, because of your choice of filter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
now that makes sense.

the nissan filter i took off was the same size as the one i put on.

now you have me curious to go see what the other one looks like
 

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a quick question on the plastic cover that you have to remove. I changed my oil for the first time yesterday. It all went well, but i did not completely remove that plastic cover because i wasnt sure how to remove the little circular plastic clip on the underside of the cover. How do you remove this?
 

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You will notice that clip has a center plug in it. Use a small screw driver, putty knife, or fingers if you can get a grip on it and pull it down. It comes out about a 1/4 inch, not all the way out of the clip. Now use your pry tool/fingers to pry up the outer edge of the clip and pull it all the way out. It should come out easy so don't force it.

Chris
 

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My first oil change on the Z did not nearly go as smooth as yours Daisy.

One paper towel my ass, I used a whole roll.

I would not recommend Rhino ramps for this car. They worked fine for my old 95' Celica, but I feel like I'm in a coffin using Rhino ramps while under my Z. The bolts were a PITA, and the oil filter would not budge. I am way too proud to go buy a filter remover. So in my coffin I had to drive a screwdriver through the oil filter, once noooo, twice naaaa, three times before it was loose enough to remove by hand.

Had a good oil spill going on my garage floor, and the whole process took me about an hour, pittiful.
But I've got the hang of it now so the next one should take half that. Most of the time was spent loosening the filter but I put oil on the lip this time so the next one should be a breeze.

I used 5 quarts of Mobil 1 synthetic which conviently comes in a 5 quart jug, and a FRAM filter.

I was taught to check your oil with the engine running but with the Z the oil is all the way up the dipstick. Cleaned it tried again, same. Even killed the engine and same result. Since I put a full 5 quarts it is definitly full just wondering if I am doing something wrong or will I get an accurate reading in a week or two?
 

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I was taught to check your oil with the engine running but with the Z the oil is all the way up the dipstick. Cleaned it tried again, same. Even killed the engine and same result. Since I put a full 5 quarts it is definitly full just wondering if I am doing something wrong or will I get an accurate reading in a week or two?

Check it with the engine off. After about 25min. the stick should read fine. You probably don't need to wait that long, but you'll be okay if you do.

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
hey barabbas sorry it made such a mess. ive had to do the screw driver trick many times on my civic after someone else changed the oil. never again will anyone else change it. well since you tightend it with you're hand you should get it off with no problem.

when i jacked up my car both tires were like 4 to 5 inches off the ground.

i was in the garage and it was level. i think having plenty of room has to do with not making a mess.

i failed to mention that i loosen the drain plug by hand and pull it away at the last second so it goes right into the pan.

was it the oil pan or was it just that darn filter that was on too tight.

you're experience was about as bad as the stupid ford ranger i changed the oil on. i put the pan right at the edge of the drain bolt and when the oil came out it completely shot over the drain pan. i was in an awkward position and between the filter and the drain plug mishap there was over a quart of oil in the driveway. and to top it off my neighbor was laughing histarically. i really hated life that day.

hopefully next time will be better for you.

take mental notes of where the oil drips or falls and it should be almost not messy at all.

but at least you have the satisfaction that it was done right using the parts that you wanted. and you probably saved a grip over having someone else do it for you and marking up the price of the oil on you.

one other thing i have started doing is taking the oil drain pan and pouring it back into the container that the new oil came from. these so called oil drain pans never seal right and always leak. this way you can take it to autozone in you're car with out making the inside of you're car smell like a mechanics shop. dump it and toss the container.

i heard of someone else on this forum doing this and i thught it was a good idea.
 

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I like this thread! At last - some folks who change their own oil. I've never let anyone change mine. (well - I had my Z in at about 1k to install springs/Hawk brake pads - so I let them change it the first time)

This is the first car I've put sythn oil in - so my changes won't be as frequent. (some here still change syn at 3k - I can't understand that - but it's their car).

Now - about the OEM jack. Any ideas on where to buy a quality scissors jack to replace it with? (you ought to see the skimpy jack on my wife's Volvo wagon - whew) :doh:

Thanks for the tips.
 

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does anyone have any clues as to different types of oil???

i was thinking of using AMSOIL, which is rated for 25,000 miles as well as there new oil filter is rated for the same time... i do nOt plan on running the oil that long but i do think it would be nice to not have to change it at 3k, was thinking maybe every 6 - 9 months

does anyone have experience with amsoil??
on my old Honda/acura forums alot of people running turbo;s used it and had good luck, just curious of what everyone here has experienced
 

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Just a question. If all you guys are changing your own oil (which is something i've been wanting to do for a while) Then how are you getting your books stamped? Crucial for resale (i thought)
 

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:rolf2:

You can use what you like. Your car , right?

FWIW, there are 2 oil filters that can be used from nissan. One is longer, one is shorter. One of them is very popular, and the other is not. Perhaps you've found out why the one isn't.

I was just stating the FYI for your info. I'm not trying to sell you oil or tell you what parts to put on the car. Believe and use what you like.

What's the scoop?

I would think you would want a larger filter for better filtering - Wrong?

I have seen only the small OEM filter, if there is a longer filter why isn't it made available?

So what is your advice on filter size/make of filter?
 

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I definitely prefer the ramps to a jack when doing oil changes, it's much easier just to drive up the ramps than bother jacking it up and messing with the jack stands. Just make sure the incline isn't too steep as to scrape your bumper.
 

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does anyone have any clues as to different types of oil???

i was thinking of using AMSOIL, which is rated for 25,000 miles as well as there new oil filter is rated for the same time... i do nOt plan on running the oil that long but i do think it would be nice to not have to change it at 3k, was thinking maybe every 6 - 9 months

does anyone have experience with amsoil??
on my old Honda/acura forums alot of people running turbo;s used it and had good luck, just curious of what everyone here has experienced
Amsoil is guaranteed in writing for 30K miles, not 25K, and their filters are good for 12.5K miles.

I have been using Amsoil on the Z and an '03 Maxima and have had a very good experience so far. I decided to change the oil and filter on the maxima @ 12.5K miles, and to my surprise, the oil still looked and felt good.

I heard that Royal purple can also be used like Amsoil, but it is just not advertised that way in order to make a larger income - is this true? Anybody heard anything about this?
 
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