No SES light and a corresponding code to go by? Was it throwing a code when they told you the MAF sensor was bad?

 

car rev slow

hey there is no code at all Nissan could not get any code same with another mechanic, so i have been told could be my throttle body as that is the only thing that will not come up with a code.

 

TB will generally come up with a code - I had to replace mine after the dash lit up - SES, Slip, and at least one other. Read the code myself, got the TB the next day, and voila. It was the sensors that are attached to the TB, the part with the heat sink that is attached. Some dealers love to throw out options for replacement when they can't come up with anything - hey, it's not their money, right? Don't let them suck you in to that unless they are paying for it. Yours sound like a sensor - crank or cam(had that too, another DIY replacement) , or TB itself. But it gets expensive paying for those without knowing for sure. Is there ANYTHING you have done, or had done, to the car recently? BTW I have an '03 also. 100K miles and no ongoing issues, just the stuff I have mentioned.

 

Thank you so much for your information, yeah Nissan are D***S i found a brand new TB on eBay genuine Nissan for 250.00 so i grabbed it. I hope it is this! was your 350 doing exactly what mine was? see i just put new LED tail lights and it happened as soon i installed them it could have been a coincidence but i thought it could have been that but who knows. What was yours doing was it like mine? Thanks again really appreciate it.

 

What you are describing is generally referred to as Limp mode but it is almost always accompanied by a SES light at a minimum - my dash lit up like a Christmas tree when the throttle body failed, and it gave me an error code for throttle position sensor or pedal position sensor, can't exactly remember. Replaced the TB and all was well. I've also had a cam position sensor fail - didn't really affect performance as much as made it difficult to start when warm, not cold. I've got a OBDII scanner so I just get the codes, check the forums, and replace whats needed. . FYI - that is a reman unit you bought at that price - new they go for about $750 - but so was mine, although a bit less at the dealer plus my club gets a 15% discount Hope the TB takes care of it for you - I wouldn't think the new tails could cause it but electrical problems can be weird that way.

 

How does the car sound like when you rev it up? Does it sound like some one is pushing down on the gas peddle really slow or does it sound like it's "breaking-up" and having trouble passing 5K rpm? I'm guessing it's braking-up and having trouble passing 5k rpm:

Check engine sensors. It's recommended to re-tighten them because they can get loose and cause issues. (Cam angle sensor, crank angle sensor, throttle position sensor, and MAS sensor.)

Checked spark plugs and there corresponding ignition coils. You might be running on five cylinders.

Check engine compression.

If the car revs like someone is pushing down on the gas peddle really slow: Imo.. It could be a faulty transmission sensor causing your computer to trip(more common in automatics)(Check if transmission is overheating), or it's an electrical issue. Did you have anything installed in the car recently?

 

I have to mechanic look at the car and check the sensors they say they are fine and the main problem is not one error code is coming up so the mechanic told me hat its not electrical as if it was it would through up a error code. I get not lights coming up on the dash what so ever and the problem just keeps coming and going it is really frustrating, if it is not the TB then i have no idea i have had the car dyno twice one guy said that your throttle doesn’t want to open. The car feels like it wants to go but just cant as soon as it gets to 4000RPM the revs go really slow sometimes doesn’t move at all, i think the main problem is no error codes so its just guessing but the problem with that is it becomes very expensive. I have installed a pop charger but the problem was happening before that i thought if change that to see if it makes a difference but no luck, but just tail lights i changed then the problem started.

 

I highly doubt it's the taillights but it's not difficult to eliminate them as the issue. Just uninstall them real quick and see if that changes anything.

As far as what your mechanic said about it not being an electrical/sensor problem, I'd be willing to bet that he is wrong. I suspect that it is your throttle body so let us know if that solves your issue when you get the new one on.

 

I will check all my sensors tonight I think were are all the engine sensors located where could I find this info???? does anyone have a link? and I will keep you posted on how I go, I hope this new throttle body is the answer.

 

The FSM (full service manual) is available from the Wiki on this site. It will have all of the info that you need, most likely in the "Engine" section.

 

Okay thanks alot for your help

 

About 5 years ago there was a slew of e-bay LED taillights that caused this exact problem with 2003 Zs. If I remember right, there needs to be a resister, or some such, in line with the LEDs to keep one of the body modules happy.

I know it shouldn’t be connected (lights to engine problems) but the results were exactly as you’re experiencing. Try searching back in all the various 350Z forums for old posts on this problem.

 

That's true about the LED tails. I've read about that on Motoring. I think a few members had proven it.

 

OKAY WOW then i will be changing the lights over tonight to see if the problem goes away

 

Hey smoothz do you were the the thread is in the forum? i cant find much on google. thanks

 

LED tail lights? - Nissan 350Z Motoring Forums

I hope this is the correct one.

 

YOU GUYS ARE CHAMPIONS I BET YOU THIS IS THE PROBLEM THANKS SO MUCH. I will let you guys know tonight if it works thanks again.

 

I've also read that LED's without resistors, will blow a fuse, but it's prolly not going to solve the problem. I'm keeping high hopes stock taillights will take away the problem.

If you have a voltmeter around, check the voltage on the TB. Remember to accelerate the car when voltmeter is applied. You might be able to do this with the car off, in aux. Simplest way to see if TB is working, take of the intake clamp nearest the TB and see if it opens all the way Your car will have to be on and you'll need a buddy to push the peddle while your looking. The door should open 90 degrees and it will open gradually, it's not going to fling open instantly.

 

Yay alll fixedddd

Can you believe it guys it was my tail lights!!!! as soon as i got home from work i put my old ones back in an BANG my car is now running PERFECT

Its a shame i just paid 300.00 for a throttle body but i guess i will keep it just in case.

I would really like to thank all of you, if it was not for all of your help i would still be wasting money and going to mechanics and might i add mechanics are the biggest crooks and have no idea what the fk they are on about. Thanks again.

EBAY TAIL LIGHTS STAY AWAY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

:lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol:

 

Can you believe it guys it was my tail lights!!!!

Awesome!

 

hahaha I just got an email from SmoothZ last night to check this out.. glad you got it fixed.. I also had the same problem but I only did the bulbs... a guy down the street from me just added an inline resistor and fixed his problem.. If you would have tried to use your cruise control while your lights were on.. you wouldn't have been able to.. apparently the ECU senses that crap and thinks something huge is wrong.. that's actually a pretty common problem over on 350Zmotoring and my350Z

 

I don't know that mechanics are 'crooks" as much as some are clueless, and not always their fault. Especially with modded cars, they can't be expected to know everything - which is why these forums are such a great resource for us. Glad you got your solution!