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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all,

Got my car lowered today with the Hotchkis springs which I ordered from the US.
The drop is as advertised approx 15mm in front & 19mm in rear.
The car now sits nicely and it is really noticeable in the rear.

My quick driving impression is that it is almost exactly the same as stock (seeing that the spring rates are not much different, slightly harder in the front and softer in the rears).
I did notice that there was much less bump harshness coming from the rears when I went over a few speed humps.
At higher speeds, it seems almost the same although I did notice less bodyroll (probably because it now sits lower).

The cost was as follows for those interested:
Springs shipped to Aus; $360.00
Fitting and wheel alignment: $265.00
Still cheaper than pedders & eibach in Oz wanted $660.00 just for their springs!

On that note, my wheel alignment guy has told me that I am now at the max for my specs so there is no more adjustment. The specs:

camber rear: left -1'43 right -1'45
camber front: left -1'18 right -1'12

toe rear: left +0,4mm right +0,1mm
toe front: left +0,2mm right +0,1mm
Is this good, I really do not know????

Anyway, it makes me glad that I went for the Hotchkis rather than the Eibachs for my tyre wear sake, althought the 1 inch drop alround with the Eibachs would look better!

Here are before & after shots. note that they probably will settle down alittle further over the coming weeks with some more driving. Will be ordering either Hotchkis or Eibach sways in the next few weeks which should complete my suspension package.

BEFORE





AFTER
 

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camber rear: left -1'43 right -1'45
camber front: left -1'18 right -1'12

toe rear: left +0,4mm right +0,1mm
toe front: left +0,2mm right +0,1mm
Is this good, I really do not know????


I'm not sure what your mechanic means my 'maxed out'? I'm guessing that he can't get any LESS camber at the rear ... but that's about it. The toe should still be very much adjustable at both front and back.

Your setup seems conservative (not that there's anything wrong with it). Your front camber is given by the springs and you're running a fair bit of toe-IN at both ends which adds stability. Not sure why your toe settings are not even left-to-right ... I'd prefer to have them matching as that way the car will behave the same on both left as well as right turns.

ps. I'm running a more agressive set-up with -1.5deg of camber at the front and -2.0deg at the back. My toe settings are only about 0.1mm of toe-IN at the front (total) ,and about 4mm of toe-IN at the back. Though, I'm getting it set to 1-2mm at the back when I get around to it.

pps. How much clearance have you got bellow the car ... in particular bollow the exhaust?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the info on the camber/toe stuff. Like I said I don't understand diddly squat about all that, so rather leave it to people that are in the know. (sounds like you know what you are talking about)

Clearance is not an issue at all so far! I have a moderate drive way, as long as I go conservative I do not scrape at all. I also have a speed hump up the road (school crossing) and I took it a bit faster today to test if I did bottom out but everything ok!

Just did a quick measure under the car:

Muffler clearance approx 175mm (lowest point)
exhaust clearance 110mm approx (if you look under the car, it is the part that has a bend approx 400mm before entering the muffler) As far as I can see this is the lowest point?
 

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From reading the TSBs from the US site we should have Zero toe if at all possible.

There is not reason why you should have 5mm total toe in the rear or 3mm in the front.

I'm running 1mm total front and Zero and the rear BUT my rear cambre is in the order of -1.8deg ea side... thus it doesn't slide much at all.
 

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I also run 0 toe at the front, it helped my with my tire feathering. If you do a lot of hwy driving like I do it's a good idea.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The alignment place told me to come back after 200-500k's of driving so he could check the alignment after the springs settle in. Will make a point of asking/adjusting about the toe (or should that be toes?)
 

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The feathering is only a problem on the front, so adjust the front. I'm not sure what the specs are for the rear so you might have to do some reaserch on it.
 

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[/quote]

Do a search on whiteline, there are 3 threads on the first page about them as well, so just scroll down and read them.
 

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[/quote]

Thanks guys..

IMO :doh: Mickyboy. After reading the posts on the whiteline there didnt seem to be anyone on there that has actually installed them and stated on how they perform? Any idea how they ride? Tough or similar to the Hotchis?

Great price tho... Is there anything else i need to get started on lowering it ? Or just buy the set of front and rear springs and get them installed?

cheers

thanks heaps
 

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g'day fellas

im new to the forums and have been following the postings on zed modifications particularly regarding springs and sway bars...was wondering if anyone could recommend a good set of sway bars for installation on a 2003 zed, and wherebouts in oz i could purchase them from. particularly in the melbourne region? if anyone could help, would greatly appreciate your advice and input.

thanks heaps,

cheers :cheers:

mr350zed
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Narsty, one of the guys on this forum has the whiteline springs I think it is David M (but not sure). All the springs out there will ride fairly similar, so I suggest go for the whiteline springs ( I would have if I knew about them before the Hotchkis). All you need are the springs, install should cost around $220-$300 (shop around)! Whilst on suspension, I would suggest getting the adjustable sways, they make a huge difference!

Email [email protected] directly on where to purchase & if you have any further questions. He will help for sure.

cheers
 
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