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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
I have the kappa perfects, but if you are not going to run an amplifier I would advise against them. They are rated at 150w rms. Most headunits put out a measily 20w RMS.

Those babies need power to really shine.

The regular Kappas will work better for your situation.
 

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Toykilla,

How do you feel about the Sony WX4500X? This is the HU that I'm thinking about going with.

Then I was gonna do some Infinity Kappas or Perfects for the front, leave the stock rears, and add an amp.
CD changer and/or sub are later down the line.

Question:
If I want to keep the option open for rear high-quality speakers, CD changer, and sub, which amp to buy???
The only amp I've ever had was the Alpine V12 5-channel and it worked great, but if you could recommend something else, I'd take your opinion.
Probably going to put it under the drivers side seat or passanger, what do you recommend?

Thanks for all your help...
 

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Okay I have a question for ya. What are the wire colors which come in from the power window and locks AFTER the main plug inside the car?

Reason I am asking is because we are trying to get this alarm installed but the wires in the door do not match any of the wires under the dash. This is very disturbing.

It is a Clifford RS-3 and a 2004 Z. Any help would be great.

Thanks,

low
 

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Toykilla,

How do you like the Pioneer FH-P5000MP HU?
I installed the Sony, but had to put in a line converter cause not enough pre-amps. I'm not happy with it and was thinking about the Pioneer.

I've installed a Phoenix Gold Tantrum 600 with Diamond Components up front and Bostons in the rear. No sub, no changer, yet... soon...

I would just like opinions on the HU...

Thanks for any help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
i am not familiar with that pioneer unit.. but i did have the 8500 mp and loved it.. most of the features look to be the same.. so i say go with it.. im sure it will sound great.. it looks kick ass too!

sorry i havent been around much.. gettin over my car wreck!
 

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Toykilla - I have a 350ZR and want to install XM radio and would like to use the OEM from Nissan if possible. According to Nissan, the 350Z Touring Coupe is the only Z that is "factory wired" for satellite radio. From what I've found out, this "factory wiring" is the N-Bus cable routed from the radio to the trunk area where the OEM receiver is mounted. I have also seen where several people have installed satellite radios and mounted the antenna inside the car with good results. The OEM radio and n-bus cable is available from Grubbs Infinity in Dallas. I would think I could mount the receiver up front around/behind/in the NAV compartment, mount the antenna between the defrost outlet, connect the receiver to the radio with the n-bus cable and everything should work. There is still one thing I can't find anywhere. Is the radio in the Z with the factory wiring the same radio in my ZR Touring? Will the SAT option wake up when the sat receiver is connected? (now the radio button cycles through AM - FM1 - FM2 - AM)
I think someone at Grubbs Infinity might know but they won't reply to emails or answer the phone. Business must be good!!!!
Thanks
 

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Originally posted by toykilla@Jan 16 2004, 07:44 PM
If you have any questions about car audio.. just ask me!

I am a car audio nut!.. Ask those that have heard my system!

Ok just a few things. You say go with 6.5 for the fronts and leave the factory wiring, but it needs an adapter. Do you know where I can get this. Next is putting the sub behind my seat a good place. I have the 2004 Touring with the bose system. ALSO THIS IS THE BIG QUESTION. I HAVE OWNED MANY CARS THAT CAME WITH A STOCK BOSE SYSTEM AND IN PAST EXP. I HAVE NOTICED THAT BOSE SYSTEMS PUT ON MINI AMPS. ON THE BACK OF THE SPEAKERS SO IF YOU WANT TO JUST UPGRADE YOUR SPEAKERS FIRST YOU HAVE TO CUT WIRES INSTEAD OF PLUG AND PLAY ADAPTERS FROM YOUR STOCK WIRES TO YOUR NEW AFTERMARKET SPEAKERS. Also where is the satilite radio n-bus hook up on the touring model. Is it behind the deck?

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
QUOTE
Ok just a few things. You say go with 6.5 for the fronts and leave the factory wiring, but it needs an adapter. Do you know where I can get this.
Best buy or circuit city should cary the adaptors, if not, you can do what I did and splice in some speaker wire.

QUOTE
Next is putting the sub behind my seat a good place. I have the 2004 Touring with the bose system.
It is not the optimal location for the best sound. Physically this is a great location for the Z because you will not use up any cargo space. Many people use this location, but if you want a better sound , then the hatch area is best. If you do not want to sacrifice cargo space, then behind the seat will be ok. It is not terrible, just not the best place. It comes down to a crompromise.

QUOTE
ALSO THIS IS THE BIG QUESTION. I HAVE OWNED MANY CARS THAT CAME WITH A STOCK BOSE SYSTEM AND IN PAST EXP. I HAVE NOTICED THAT BOSE SYSTEMS PUT ON MINI AMPS. ON THE BACK OF THE SPEAKERS SO IF YOU WANT TO JUST UPGRADE YOUR SPEAKERS FIRST YOU HAVE TO CUT WIRES INSTEAD OF PLUG AND PLAY ADAPTERS FROM YOUR STOCK WIRES TO YOUR NEW AFTERMARKET SPEAKERS.
Ahah! the big question has been asked... The Bose system in the Z uses a single amplifier to power the 4 speakers and 1 subwoofer. It is located on the drivers side of the spare tire well. Wiring around this is a bitch. I am not sure how aftermarket speakers will handle this amp, but the stock head unit is not strong enough to push aftermarket speakers.. I would recommend throwing in an aftermarket amp.. It will cost about the same as having someone bypass the factory amplifier and probably less work.

QUOTE
Also where is the satilite radio n-bus hook up on the touring model. Is it behind the deck?
I searched but could not find any reference to this. I do not have the touring model or I could look for you.

Hope this helps a little bit
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
QUOTE
Toykilla - I have a 350ZR and want to install XM radio and would like to use the OEM from Nissan if possible. According to Nissan, the 350Z Touring Coupe is the only Z that is "factory wired" for satellite radio. From what I've found out, this "factory wiring" is the N-Bus cable routed from the radio to the trunk area where the OEM receiver is mounted. I have also seen where several people have installed satellite radios and mounted the antenna inside the car with good results. The OEM radio and n-bus cable is available from Grubbs Infinity in Dallas. I would think I could mount the receiver up front around/behind/in the NAV compartment, mount the antenna between the defrost outlet, connect the receiver to the radio with the n-bus cable and everything should work. There is still one thing I can't find anywhere. Is the radio in the Z with the factory wiring the same radio in my ZR Touring? Will the SAT option wake up when the sat receiver is connected? (now the radio button cycles through AM - FM1 - FM2 - AM)
I think someone at Grubbs Infinity might know but they won't reply to emails or answer the phone. Business must be good!!!!
Thanks
I am not too familiar with this, but from my experience the Factory radio should recognize when the satellite radio is plugged in. You should get am -fm1-fm2-am-sat. (or something like that)

You can mount the satallite components wherever they will fit. Make sure the antenna has a clean shot at the rear window if you are mounting it inside. Dark tint can also inhibit reception!
 

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Toykilla - I picked up a XM Commander at Circuit city, mounted the controller in the NAV compartment, mounted the antenna between the defroster outlets (just ahead of the tripple meters), and mounted the receiver up under the passanger side dash. It was a clean install and reception is great. I found a thread on a site that documented the removal of the center console and man was that ever a life saver. Did the install one Sunday afternoon. It took about six hours.

The signal drops out under bridges/over passes (normal) but otherwise is very good. Three bars (max) most of the time even in the garage. When I washing the car I normally have the radio on but the XM signal drops out with the hood up. Life is terrible sometimes!!

The XM Commander comes with a built-in RF modulator and it sounds great through the radio. I have heard that the RF modulator with the XM Commander is one of the best around and I belive that now.

It's sad that Nissan has turned their back on the Roadster people that might want a satellite radio. They only offer an antenna that mounts on top of the car (ugly - like bubble gum on the MonaLisa painting) and no information at all on how or whether the Satellite receiver will connect to the OEM radios. Shame on you Nissan (because I know you will be reading this). There are people in the world, that with a little information, can make things work.

This was the MAY mod. Have just ordered an Injen dual exhaust system for the June mod. Am thinking about a Veilside front lip spoiler and rear spoiler for the July mods. Suggestions for the August mods are welcome. I have a 5 speed auto so a S/C or turbo is not an option.

Love this site.
 

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Haven't found the answer to this searching so..
Does the stock base stereo have a RCA out or any type of line level signals to get any better sound than using a line level convertor to use an amp for upgrades? Also is there an easy connection to make for a turn on from the factory HU or do I need to resort to another adapter for that? I saw a comment that those speaker level turn on convertors don't always work that great.

thanks for the help.
 

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My stock HU is in my basement somewhere, so I haven't seen it in a while, but I don't believe there is any sort of output on it other than to the speakers. And if you're looking to upgrade anything, you won't want to keep the stock HU, it isn't powerful enough
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Originally posted by bjr@Oct 17 2004, 09:33 PM
Haven't found the answer to this searching so..
Does the stock base stereo have a RCA out or any type of line level signals to get any better sound than using a line level convertor to use an amp for upgrades?  Also is there an easy connection to make for a turn on from the factory HU or do I need to resort to another adapter for that?  I saw a comment that those speaker level turn on convertors don't always work that great.

thanks for the help.

There are no RCA outputs on any of the Z radios. The only output is for the factory amp.

And yes, you are correct when you say that the converter boxes do not always work very well.

What type of turn on are you referring to? Amplifier?
 

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yep. Amp turn on. I wanted to upgrade a little at a time. I'll start simple with disconnecting the rears and converting them to line level to an EQ on to my 6 channel amp - bridging two of the amps mono to a DVC Image Dynamics or Boston Acoustic sub under the hatch floor in a sealed MDF or fiberglass enclosure if the space isn't shaped right for a 'box'. The EQ will leave me high pass signals for using the other two cahnnels for fronts someday with upgraded speakers. For now it will give me a LP filter for the sub and control over it for blending it into the factory junk. HU would be last on my list because of theft reasons. Once my car comes in and I get started it may progress alot faster or more elaborate than I planned but I doubt I will want to spend the money. I'm just looking for decent full range sound. So BTW, what should I use as a 12V amp turn on if I want to add an amp to the factory HU?? And any opinions on Boston G2 vs. ID IDQ10 subs?
thanks,
BJR
 

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I was just thinking that the Amp turn on feature found on home theatre subs seems to work fine. What's the problem with car version? Fails to turn on amp? Fails to turn off amp? Turns on/off intermittently while listening?? Is it worth a try to test one out for $10?
 

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Toykilla,

I just bought an alpine cda 9855 and ordered the wire harness from crutchfield with the option ( bose system w/out navigation) I also ordered an alpine MRD-M1005 amp and 2 Alpine SWR-1242D 12" Type R's @ 4ohms no enclosure. For components I ordered Alpine MRP-T220 2-Channel Amplifier to power ALPINE SPR-17LS TYPE R 6.5" COMPONENT SPEAKERS.

1. To me the harness still looks usable if I do away with all bose components, please correct me if I'm wrong?

2. How would I wire these two type r subwoofers to the m1005 amp?

3. I would Like to build my own enclosure with partical board nothing fancy, would you have any ideas or specs for the type r's?

4. would the mrp-t220 amp be good enough for the spr-17ls type r components?

5. and last Will I have to run two remote wires, two power wires to battery and ground two negatives? (because of two amps)

Thanks all is appreciated TOYKILLA.
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
1. To me the harness still looks usable if I do away with all bose components, please correct me if I'm wrong?

Yes, the harness is still useable. However, the wires to the speakers are actually going to the amplifier first, so you will have to bypass the amplifier in some manner. Example, the stock setup is:

Head Unit====Amplifier====Speakers

You will need to bypass the Amplifier:

Head Unit====Speakers

There are several ways to do this. You can either bypass the Amplifier at the actual amp, or by running seperate wires from the Head Unit to the Speakers.

2. How would I wire these two type r subwoofers to the m1005 amp?


You will want to wire the two subs in parallel achieving 2 ohms which will yield 700W RMS power (350W each sub). In other words connect both + terminals of the subs to the + terminal of the amp. And connect both - terminals to the - terminal of the amp.

3. I would Like to build my own enclosure with partical board nothing fancy, would you have any ideas or specs for the type r's?


I would recommned a sealed box with a volume: 0.85-1.5 cubic feet.

4. would the mrp-t220 amp be good enough for the spr-17ls type r components?


Yes, that is plenty of power.

5. and last Will I have to run two remote wires, two power wires to battery and ground two negatives? (because of two amps)


You can buy Multi-Amp Wiring kit. This will have all the stuff you need to power 2 amplifiers (or more). Basically, you will run 1 power wire to a distribution block, and from there you will run 2 power wires (1 for each amp). Then ground each amp seperately.
 
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