[toykilla]

If you have any questions about car audio.. just ask me!

I am a car audio nut!.. Ask those that have heard my system!

 

[toykilla]

always willing to help out a

 

[toykilla]

i will respond to these tomorrow..im hella tired

 

[toykilla]

OMG i just spend 30 minutes posting a reply to this thread (very detailed).. just to have internet explorer crash on .. FOOK MICROSOFT!!!

:giljotiini:

 

[toykilla]

sorry ill do it again.. it was really frustrating when it all got erased..

 

[toykilla]

here is my second try at answering your questions:


Here are my initial thoughts:
- 3 RCAs from the HU to the amp (3 for upgrade, only use 2 for now). Runs through the center hump.

why 3 RCAs ? I would recommend only running front speakers and a subwoofer. rear speakers only cause interference and do not significantly add to the volume. You would be better off with 1 set of really good front speakers than 2 sets. I will explain more on this if you need me to.

- Speaker wire from amp to fronts. Run through center to dash and across to each door???

It is very difficult to run the wires into the doors of the Z. Unless you are running extrememly high power, this is unnecessary. I am running some fairly strong amps and 150watt rms components with no problems in the factory wiring.

- Speaker wire from amp to rears. Run through rear area. I assume this is obvious.

Again, I would advise against rear speakers.

- Amp power. Run to battery via right side under carpet on floor. Inline fuse soon after battery.

Correct.

- Amp ground to chassis in compartment.

Correct. Make sure the ground is very good. A bolt through the metal is a good idea.

- HU RCA input - Probably will run to the back just in case. Might want to find a Sony Bus control cable to control changer if desired in future.

Good idea if you know what you will be adding later.

- HU hardness via adapter to factory harness. I ordered one of these from Crutchfield but not sure I need it. HU has:
1. Ground (duh)

duh

2. Antenna Remote (Power antenna control lead or booster amp) NC right?

not needed in the z.. no power antenna right ?

3. Amp Remote In. This goes to Amp turn on??

yes, this turns your amps on when the HU is turned on. Be careful, the Power antenna and amp remote turn on are similar in color. One is blue, while the other is blue with a white stripe. I cannot remember which is which. But if you use the wrong wire for the amps, they will shut off when you play a cd (or anything other than the radio)

5. Illumination. Dunno where this goes??

This adjust the illumination on the headunit using your factory dash illumination

6. +12V (ignition on). Connect to Cig lighter? or fuse box (which?)

this is located in the car harness, no need to go to fuse box or cig lighter

7. +12V (battery).

this is located in the car harness, no need to go to the battery

8. Car antenna.

just plug that sucker in



Sorry that took so long. my work computer frozen when i pushed submit the first time around.. then i just got caught up on other things.

 

[toykilla]

No, you would save no time by installing a car alarm while doing an audio installation.


The only thing i could see saving time would be if you decide to run the lock wires into the doors (which I plan on avoiding).

But this would only save you about 10-15 minutes as the doors are easily removed

 

[toykilla]

Originally posted by 350ed@Feb 13 2004, 11:49 PM
Thanks a bunch.  It all makes sense.
I tried listening with the fade set to the front but didn't like it as much as with front+rear.
For the 3 RCAs, it would be for (Front, Rear, Sub - if desired in future).

Do you know the wire guage for the stock speaker wire?  I don't have the Bose so it may stink.

the wire gauges is tiny .. it is the same on the bose and non bose.. but again, i am running 150w rms components on the factory wire without any issues.

 

[toykilla]

Originally posted by Steve350Z@Feb 14 2004, 09:16 AM
i am just considering upgrading the head unit for now.  i do not have the bose system but it sucks just the same.  i was thinking on getting a pioneer DEH-P8500MP.  later on i may consider doing the speakers and/or adding an amp.  i am also considering putting in the XM box since the headunit i plan to get is XM ready.  any thoughts??

that is the head unit i have!.. the silver matches the aluminum accents of the Z perfectly!.. my only gripe is the blue lights and display clashes with the amber interior of the Z.. but not alot you can do about that really.

Tons of features, and tuning capability on that head unit.

But you really should atleast swap out the front door speakers.. a good set of infinities will really change the sound of the stereo.

 

[toykilla]

I have the kappa perfects, but if you are not going to run an amplifier I would advise against them. They are rated at 150w rms. Most headunits put out a measily 20w RMS.

Those babies need power to really shine.

The regular Kappas will work better for your situation.

 

[toykilla]

i am not familiar with that pioneer unit.. but i did have the 8500 mp and loved it.. most of the features look to be the same.. so i say go with it.. im sure it will sound great.. it looks kick ass too!

sorry i havent been around much.. gettin over my car wreck!

 

[toykilla]

QUOTE

Ok just a few things. You say go with 6.5 for the fronts and leave the factory wiring, but it needs an adapter. Do you know where I can get this.

Best buy or circuit city should cary the adaptors, if not, you can do what I did and splice in some speaker wire.

QUOTE

Next is putting the sub behind my seat a good place. I have the 2004 Touring with the bose system.

It is not the optimal location for the best sound. Physically this is a great location for the Z because you will not use up any cargo space. Many people use this location, but if you want a better sound , then the hatch area is best. If you do not want to sacrifice cargo space, then behind the seat will be ok. It is not terrible, just not the best place. It comes down to a crompromise.

QUOTE

ALSO THIS IS THE BIG QUESTION. I HAVE OWNED MANY CARS THAT CAME WITH A STOCK BOSE SYSTEM AND IN PAST EXP. I HAVE NOTICED THAT BOSE SYSTEMS PUT ON MINI AMPS. ON THE BACK OF THE SPEAKERS SO IF YOU WANT TO JUST UPGRADE YOUR SPEAKERS FIRST YOU HAVE TO CUT WIRES INSTEAD OF PLUG AND PLAY ADAPTERS FROM YOUR STOCK WIRES TO YOUR NEW AFTERMARKET SPEAKERS.

Ahah! the big question has been asked... The Bose system in the Z uses a single amplifier to power the 4 speakers and 1 subwoofer. It is located on the drivers side of the spare tire well. Wiring around this is a bitch. I am not sure how aftermarket speakers will handle this amp, but the stock head unit is not strong enough to push aftermarket speakers.. I would recommend throwing in an aftermarket amp.. It will cost about the same as having someone bypass the factory amplifier and probably less work.

QUOTE

Also where is the satilite radio n-bus hook up on the touring model. Is it behind the deck?

I searched but could not find any reference to this. I do not have the touring model or I could look for you.

Hope this helps a little bit

 

[toykilla]

QUOTE

Toykilla - I have a 350ZR and want to install XM radio and would like to use the OEM from Nissan if possible. According to Nissan, the 350Z Touring Coupe is the only Z that is "factory wired" for satellite radio. From what I've found out, this "factory wiring" is the N-Bus cable routed from the radio to the trunk area where the OEM receiver is mounted. I have also seen where several people have installed satellite radios and mounted the antenna inside the car with good results. The OEM radio and n-bus cable is available from Grubbs Infinity in Dallas. I would think I could mount the receiver up front around/behind/in the NAV compartment, mount the antenna between the defrost outlet, connect the receiver to the radio with the n-bus cable and everything should work. There is still one thing I can't find anywhere. Is the radio in the Z with the factory wiring the same radio in my ZR Touring? Will the SAT option wake up when the sat receiver is connected? (now the radio button cycles through AM - FM1 - FM2 - AM)
I think someone at Grubbs Infinity might know but they won't reply to emails or answer the phone. Business must be good!!!!
Thanks

I am not too familiar with this, but from my experience the Factory radio should recognize when the satellite radio is plugged in. You should get am -fm1-fm2-am-sat. (or something like that)

You can mount the satallite components wherever they will fit. Make sure the antenna has a clean shot at the rear window if you are mounting it inside. Dark tint can also inhibit reception!

 

[toykilla]

Originally posted by bjr@Oct 17 2004, 09:33 PM
Haven't found the answer to this searching so..
Does the stock base stereo have a RCA out or any type of line level signals to get any better sound than using a line level convertor to use an amp for upgrades?  Also is there an easy connection to make for a turn on from the factory HU or do I need to resort to another adapter for that?  I saw a comment that those speaker level turn on convertors don't always work that great.

thanks for the help.

There are no RCA outputs on any of the Z radios. The only output is for the factory amp.

And yes, you are correct when you say that the converter boxes do not always work very well.

What type of turn on are you referring to? Amplifier?

 

[toykilla]

1. To me the harness still looks usable if I do away with all bose components, please correct me if I'm wrong?

Yes, the harness is still useable. However, the wires to the speakers are actually going to the amplifier first, so you will have to bypass the amplifier in some manner. Example, the stock setup is:

Head Unit====Amplifier====Speakers

You will need to bypass the Amplifier:

Head Unit====Speakers

There are several ways to do this. You can either bypass the Amplifier at the actual amp, or by running seperate wires from the Head Unit to the Speakers.

2. How would I wire these two type r subwoofers to the m1005 amp?

You will want to wire the two subs in parallel achieving 2 ohms which will yield 700W RMS power (350W each sub). In other words connect both + terminals of the subs to the + terminal of the amp. And connect both - terminals to the - terminal of the amp.

3. I would Like to build my own enclosure with partical board nothing fancy, would you have any ideas or specs for the type r's?

I would recommned a sealed box with a volume: 0.85-1.5 cubic feet.

4. would the mrp-t220 amp be good enough for the spr-17ls type r components?

Yes, that is plenty of power.

5. and last Will I have to run two remote wires, two power wires to battery and ground two negatives? (because of two amps)

You can buy Multi-Amp Wiring kit. This will have all the stuff you need to power 2 amplifiers (or more). Basically, you will run 1 power wire to a distribution block, and from there you will run 2 power wires (1 for each amp). Then ground each amp seperately.

 

[toykilla]

Did you make spacers out of the stock speakers like i did in my tutorial?

The problem IS the depth of the speaker. The window rolls down behind the speaker, so the deeper the speaker, the better chance of clashing.

1" spacer may be too deep. If you follow my tutorial exactly you will see i had to shave part of the door panel (inside, not visible)

 

[toykilla]

That sounds like a bad head unit. is it still under warranty?