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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What's up guys , I'm new to the site, to start my name is George and I own a 2006 brickyard 350z which I manual swapped last year.

Last month I changed the battery and the car decided to mess with me. It cranks over strong and after about 5-7 cranks it will start. But after driving it it take 5-10 minutes to want to start again.

I started with changing cam and crank sensors, then renewing all the grounding points under the hood. followed by checking for broken or corroded wiring. I check the NATS as well and still having the same issue.

My CEL is showing u1000 but I'm guessing that's cause the car used to be auto and is now missing the TCM.

My IPDM makes a clicking sound from the starter relay which I have also replaced it clicks on and off every 5 secs or so. I have ran into a dead end here as I have no idea what to do next. The car runs amazing once it starts but getting it to start sucks and is embarrassing when out in public lol.

If you guys could help I would seriously appreciate it. I have asked 3 groups on Facebook and no one knows what to do almost like no one works on there own cars anymore.

Any questions you guys have ill be logging in every 1-2 hours. I really want to start driving my Z again so please ANYTHING you can think if will help.
 

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Welcome George- I suggest you look at your fuel pressure regulator (FPR). The VQ needs adequate line pressure to gain an immediate start. If the fuel pressure regulator becomes defective, that pressure drops off and needs to be cranked a few times to build up again. Check your FSM for more specifics on location and procedure for changing the FPR.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Welcome George- I suggest you look at your fuel pressure regulator (FPR). The VQ needs adequate line pressure to gain an immediate start. If the fuel pressure regulator becomes defective, that pressure drops off and needs to be cranked a few times to build up again. Check your FSM for more specifics on location and procedure for changing the FPR.
Ok, ill check into that, someone told me to check my negative cable as well, it was super hot so ill be replacing that too. I do have a whole other motor I could pull the FPR off of and see if that makes a difference. Question, do VQ's have 2 FPR or just the one?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
So today I changed the negative battery wire and terminal, had battery tested and its great and changed the dampeners at the end of the fuel rails. No improvement. I also changed the vvt sensors on the front of the motor and nothing either. Motor only has 47k on it and its never been run dry on oil or overheated, I cant think of anything else.

I might just purchase another crank sensor and see if maybe the one I bought is defective on Friday.

Any other ideas is appreciated to anyone with input. I am running out of ideas. When it turns on its a champ its just starting it that is being a pain!!! lol
 

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So, did you change the FPR? You mentioned "dampners", but nothing about the FPR? When you say "no improvement", do you mean the car remains hard to start, or is it not starting now?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
So, did you change the FPR? You mentioned "dampners", but nothing about the FPR? When you say "no improvement", do you mean the car remains hard to start, or is it not starting now?
So I looked online and it said the FPR is built in to the pump itself, also read that the fuel dampeners are what hold the constant psi for the fuel lines something about because its not a recirculating fuel system( i know my explanation must sound handicapped sorry). I had some laying around so I changed them.

No improvement meaning the car still takes 4-8 cranks to start up. It never cranks on the first try and after driving it take 5-10 minutes before it will start again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Captains log day 58. (lmao but seriously been almost 2 months of dealing with this)

I bought starter fluid today and decided to spray around the intake manifold area and wouldn't you know it, the car started instantly. Now I'm thinking that I have a vacuum leak somewhere around the intake plenum spacer and throttle body.

I will be disassembling everything and checking/replacing the gaskets in and around the manifold to see if I can finally get this Z to start on the first turn every time.


I'll post results by tomorrow once everything is done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Well, no positive results.
At this point i have:
Change crank sensor twice
cam sensors twice
check all my ground
changed O2 sensor (sensor 2 bank 2)
resealed the intake manifold
replaced fuel damper/regulators
checked for spark and fuel
MAF sensor is confirmed working
the Z has actually gotten harder to start.....

IDK anyone in the Fort Myers Fl area that might be a guru, honestly I'm willing to pay someone to come here and tell me what has to be fixed.
 

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Can you post a picture of the "fuel dampeners" you replaced? That may not be the right part...
 

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So I looked online and it said the FPR is built in to the pump itself, also read that the fuel dampeners are what hold the constant psi for the fuel lines something about because its not a recirculating fuel system( i know my explanation must sound handicapped sorry). I had some laying around so I changed them.

No improvement meaning the car still takes 4-8 cranks to start up. It never cranks on the first try and after driving it take 5-10 minutes before it will start again.
Not sure where you are getting your info, but the Z33 FPR is NOT built into the fuel pump. Here's a link into what it looks like:

Adjustable fuel pressure regulator Part No. 0610 (injector.com)
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Not sure where you are getting your info, but the Z33 FPR is NOT built into the fuel pump. Here's a link into what it looks like:

Adjustable fuel pressure regulator Part No. 0610 (injector.com)
In a video I watched on a 2005 350z the FPR was built on/in the fuel pump assembly not the actual pump itself, my apologize for the general description. I'm waiting on a fuel pump which I was going to upgrade anyways, and a t-fitting and a fuel pressure tester. The car is starting more consistent now after fixing a vacuum leak in between the plenum spacer and the lower intake manifold. Now its only really hard to start after she's been running/driven a while. Already had 2 "mechanics" come look at it and everything they suggested to do I have done or am waiting on parts to do.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Is there any way to test or know if the timing chain is stretched? Lots of people keep saying it could be that. The car only has 47k of which i have only put 5k on. I bought it from an old guy in his 60's and it was auto, I doubt the old dude was tracking the car when he drove it to play golf lol.
 

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Is there any way to test or know if the timing chain is stretched? Lots of people keep saying it could be that. The car only has 47k of which i have only put 5k on. I bought it from an old guy in his 60's and it was auto, I doubt the old dude was tracking the car when he drove it to play golf lol.
There's no way to "test" a timing chain unless you remove it. Any stretch would have to be from an underlying cause and there wouldn't be any reason to replace it at 47K. BTW- I'm an "old dude in his 60's" and still hold an SCCA competition license to actively race around the country. Met plenty of younger Z drivers who play golf and have no idea what their cars are really capable of.
 

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Is there any way to test or know if the timing chain is stretched? Lots of people keep saying it could be that. The car only has 47k of which i have only put 5k on. I bought it from an old guy in his 60's and it was auto, I doubt the old dude was tracking the car when he drove it to play golf lol.
Is there any way to test or know if the timing chain is stretched? Lots of people keep saying it could be that. The car only has 47k of which i have only put 5k on. I bought it from an old guy in his 60's and it was auto, I doubt the old dude was tracking the car when he drove it to play golf lol.
I am and old guy, 64 years old and I picked up my 370Z yesterday. I also participate in SCAA. With age comes wisdom and a great car.
 

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I am and old guy, 64 years old and I picked up my 370Z yesterday. I also participate in SCAA. With age comes wisdom and a great car.
Welcome- why not start a new thread and introduce yourself and your Z (year, color, mileage, etc.)? Maybe you can impart some wisdom to the rest of us.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Ok so today I made the appointment with Nissan for next week to have it diag. So far i did change plugs and a friend hooked me up with a DW 255 fuel pump fo freeeeee lol car still remains the same hard to start but it does start and once its hot its even harder. while i wait for the appointment with Nissan next week I'm going to get a ohm/voltage meter and i am going to test all the sensors i have changed.



Was told that my issue does sound fuel related, possibly either the main damper from the fuel line to the rail or...... its getting vapor locked because of clogged fuel vent lines... all that is Chinese to me so if anyone can explain what to look at i would really appreciate it.
 
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