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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I bought my 2003 Z track about 6 weeks ago. I bought it through a Nissan dealer, but the person that had it before me installed an SES exhaust. I was just checking it out under the car while the car is on and is in Neutral. Sorry guys, I don't much about cars, and don't know anything about exhaust so I'll describe this as best as I can. About half way down the car, there are tubes/cylinders (don't know what else they're called) coming off of the exhaust. The exhaust pipes going to the back of the car from the "tubes" are leaking right at the joint. Air is just pumping out of them. Also from there to the back of the car, the pipes rattle like crazy! I'm worried that the person before me didn't install the exhaust right.

Also, I noticed I didn't have much coolant in the car. It is at the min line if not bellow that. Once I started looking around the car more I noticed a lot of liquid sitting in front of the radiator. Also, the ac was off. Think I should be worrying about a coolant leek??

Sorry if I'm worrying over nothing...

Matt :helpsmilie:
 

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Good deal! I would hope that Nissan takes care of you, since they sold you a car that was supposedly inspected, tested, and approved for resale as a used car. They missed that one, so they have to take responsibility for it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I got the call that my Z is all set. They found the leak in the exhaust and "tightened" it up. They ran pressure checks on my coolant lines, all tests passed. They did notice there wasn't much coolant in there, but assured me there weren't any leaks. So I'll be picking it up later today. :cheers:
 

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Aloha,
Check for lock washers and make sure they aren't the internal tooth type. Those do not work well for parts subject to vibrations. personally, I don't think they work well period.

A Hui Hou

PaulO
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Hmm, is it difficult to tighten up an exhaust. I have never worked on an exhaust before. It will def. save me a lot of time if the dealership is just doing a quick fix that I can do. I can also check on those washers while I'm working on it. Any advice?
 

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Yup, I have some advice for you. But first, lets cover some glossary terms -

Resonating canister - The cylinder thing in the exhaust line that you are referring to. It allows the exhaust sound to resonate and decrease in volume.

Flange - The metal brackets welded to the ends of exhaust pipe sections. Where two sections meet, there are two flanges that bolt together.

Locking washer - A normal washer that is cut on one side. Then, it is twisted slightly. When a bolt is tightened against it, the split in the washer compresses and helps to keep the bolt is place.

Now, the fix. This is something you can easily do if you have the following:
1. Jack (car jack is fine)
2. Jack stands
3. A socket wrench
4. Metric sockets sizes 10mm through 18mm or so.

Basically, you need to check the flange joint just aft of the canister. This is where you reported the leak. Remove the two nuts and bolts that hold the flanges together. Check for the presense of a metal gasket (a flat piece of soft metal that is pinched between the flanges). Is there a gasket? If not, get one for a local parts store. Almost all exhaust flanges use the same gaskets. If there is one, reinstall the bolts. Add the locking washers and then the nuts. You can even buy NyLock nuts (internally locking with a piece of nylon), but I don't think that is appropriate for hot exhaust parts. If you want to go one step further, you can coat the inside of the nut with RED LockTite. This is a liquid that will dry inside the nut and lock it to the bolt. You can purchase it an any auto store for about $3.

If you do not have the right tools or otherwise cannot perform the above, tell you dealer to do it specifically. Make sure they do it the right way. Remind them that a simple tightening is not working.

As for the coolant, your dealer is correct. You are "viewing" the coolant issue from the wrong angle. The tank you are looking at is only for overflow. It catches overflow in the event of over-heating. When the radiator over-heats, the coolant boils and pressure increases. The radiator cap releases this pressure at a given presure and sends the overflow to the bottle on the passenger's side. Once the pressure is released, the radiator cap reseals. The little bit of coolant in the overflow bottle is just there to keep the hot overflow from softening the plastic bottle. You do need the right amount there, but overheating will not result if it is empty. The REAL coolant is locked away inside the radiator/engine.

To check your REAL coolant level, let the car cool completely and then remove the radiator cap. When you peer into the neck of the radiator, you should be able to see the coolant level just below the neck. Thats it.

Good luck.
 

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If the exhaust continues to be a problem suggest they weld it so you don't have to worry. I don't know how many sections that exhaust has but some have lots of joints in the piping and can be problems if not installed correctly.

welding makes it all better :)
 

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Injen SES pic

what part of the exhaust is leaking? is it one of the flanges or did apart of the welding come apart?
 

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Originally posted by Chazzg@Sep 24 2005, 02:31 PM
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Injen SES pic

what part of the exhaust is leaking? is it one of the flanges or did apart of the welding come apart?
[snapback]157806[/snapback]​


Could the leak be caused if the previous owner bottomed out the car once or twice?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Checked under the car. I can't tighten anything, the leak is coming from a welded connection. It's coming from the cylinder/bottle looking things. Not the muffler end, its about half way down the car. Yea sorry, don't know much about exhausts.

Thanks guys
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
So I brought the car to the dealership, and verified the problem with them. It is leaking, and it's leaking pretty bad. Theyv'e claimed responsibility for the problem, and selling me the car with the problem, so they're going to pay for the fix. They first tried getting injen to replace it under warranty, but that didn't work out since they didn't have any proof of purchase. So they're going to re-weld it. Only they can't do that type of welding, so they're sending it out to a local shop. Hopefully it gets fixed, and I don't have any more problems...but I'll update later when I know for sure...
 

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Peptibond - what a thorough and thoughtful post. I'm sure he appreciates the time it took you.


Good form, brother. :cheers:
 
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