Bose Line Level Converters
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This particular LOC comes "Highly Recommended" for those who wish to retain their original BOSE 6 CD indash HU. When this converter is installed along with the CableLink (CLNB95R) harness - the process becomes a basic - "plug & play" operation. (no wires during this portion that will require cutting or soldering)
Key Benefits of the PowerDriver PD4
Change the factory Bose Radio to an aftermarket head unit of your choice*
Keep the factory amplified speakers intact
Or keep the factory Head Unit and use your own amps and speakers
The 35Hz Bass EQ is fully adjustable from 0 to +10dB and the outputs adjustable from a decrease of -8dB to a gain of +10dB
Input sensitivity adjustable from a gain of 20 to a decrease of 1/3
RCA, twisted pair inputs, floating or common ground
Turn-on delay and muting circuit eliminates thumps and bumps
Full DC isolation eliminates motor noise at the source
Provides extra drive for Bass amplifiers
Solves ALL component mismatch problems
Fully shielded enclosure for maximum noise rejection
High-quality, low noise components used throughout
Designed and built in U.S.A (what could be sweeter?)
Telephone: 800-858-2541
*Ask for Larry Rich (He be da MAN!!)
:thumbsup:
Key Benefits of the PowerDriver PD4
Change the factory Bose Radio to an aftermarket head unit of your choice*
Keep the factory amplified speakers intact
Or keep the factory Head Unit and use your own amps and speakers
The 35Hz Bass EQ is fully adjustable from 0 to +10dB and the outputs adjustable from a decrease of -8dB to a gain of +10dB
Input sensitivity adjustable from a gain of 20 to a decrease of 1/3
RCA, twisted pair inputs, floating or common ground
Turn-on delay and muting circuit eliminates thumps and bumps
Full DC isolation eliminates motor noise at the source
Provides extra drive for Bass amplifiers
Solves ALL component mismatch problems
Fully shielded enclosure for maximum noise rejection
High-quality, low noise components used throughout
Designed and built in U.S.A (what could be sweeter?)
Telephone: 800-858-2541
*Ask for Larry Rich (He be da MAN!!)
:thumbsup:
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This happens to be a diagram of my current Audio configuration.
Down the road, so to speak - Should the BOSE HU ever give me a significant problem (or actually die) - I can then replace the BOSE HU with the appropriate after-market HU and have all of the other necessary audio components already installed.
:smiley69:
Down the road, so to speak - Should the BOSE HU ever give me a significant problem (or actually die) - I can then replace the BOSE HU with the appropriate after-market HU and have all of the other necessary audio components already installed.
:smiley69:
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I've been researching this topic because this is where I'm at with my mods.
BriA5 from my350 says that his installer didn't have to use a LOC.
:quote from BriA5: My350z.com according to his installer
Bose does not make head units themselves. All their HUs are made by a few other companies. I am not sure who does the Z’s, but I want to say Alpine. Bose head units are constructed of two parts. One half is essentially a standard head unit, which produces line level outputs. The other half is a box which converts those outputs into the funky outputs which the Bose amps are looking for. Wires connect the two parts. My installer simply found those two wires between the pieces, stripped away the insulation, and soldered a wire that leads to my amps. This gives you the line level outputs you need.
The AudioLink PD-4 is basically a box that is the inverse of the second part of the Bose HU. While
it works well, the way this was explained to me I had to question why my installer’s method would not be better than taking a good signal, converting it to Bose standard, and then un-converting it back to its original form. Seems like there would have to be losses in that process.
Has anyone else done this?
BriA5 from my350 says that his installer didn't have to use a LOC.
:quote from BriA5: My350z.com according to his installer
Bose does not make head units themselves. All their HUs are made by a few other companies. I am not sure who does the Z’s, but I want to say Alpine. Bose head units are constructed of two parts. One half is essentially a standard head unit, which produces line level outputs. The other half is a box which converts those outputs into the funky outputs which the Bose amps are looking for. Wires connect the two parts. My installer simply found those two wires between the pieces, stripped away the insulation, and soldered a wire that leads to my amps. This gives you the line level outputs you need.
The AudioLink PD-4 is basically a box that is the inverse of the second part of the Bose HU. While
it works well, the way this was explained to me I had to question why my installer’s method would not be better than taking a good signal, converting it to Bose standard, and then un-converting it back to its original form. Seems like there would have to be losses in that process.
Has anyone else done this?
frankmusic
I took a look at their web site. The Cablelink connector you suggested only looks like half of what you need. (ie only has two RCA connectors in the picture) Did you get two seperate cables? (ie four RCA connectors) Do you have any pictures of the Cablelink connectors you used.
Tks
I took a look at their web site. The Cablelink connector you suggested only looks like half of what you need. (ie only has two RCA connectors in the picture) Did you get two seperate cables? (ie four RCA connectors) Do you have any pictures of the Cablelink connectors you used.
Tks
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Nissan / Infiniti has been using Clarion for headunits for 10+ years. The G35 unit is from clarion, my old maxima's headunit was a clarion, the 350Z should also be a clarion...
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Jagz,
The CableLink harness allows you to tap into the existing 350z factory harness and then into the LOC. The AudioLink LOC output connectors allowed me to address the front door speakers as well as the rear speakers via the power amp. As shown in my diagram, the front L&R channels and the rear L&R channels went to input of the power amp. I then powered the speakers from the amp. A separate line output signal from the amp went to the BassLink Sub Woofer. I installed the Bass control knob on the center console between my heated seat switches.
Believe me - this configuration WILL work fine for you.
Talk to Larry Rich, he'll provide you with some excellent audio expertise.
:smiley69:
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hey guys I need to confirm if this is in fact what i need for my install. My installation will consist of Xenarc 700 TSV, PS2 and XM Terk Commander. I did email Larry Rich and told him what I will be installing and wondered if PD4 will in fact benefit me. Since I'm a complete NOOB I want to make sure. He said that it would not benefit my install but all that i need is an auxilary input to the HU. Well, my understanding was since I need an FM Mod for the PS2 install this unit would benefit my system. Can someone shine a light on this for me? Thanks.
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:bump:
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Is anyone there????
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