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Discussion Starter #1
Once upon a time you bled brakes starting with the corner furthest from the master cylinder...

This no longer holds true in all cases. Recent example include the Sti, EVO VIII, and Mazda Miata.

What is the proper bleed order for the Z with brembos???

TIA,
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the Link Smooth! Here is the answer, posted by DIRN:
 

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I heard that when going to synth, one must be sure to completely flush out the old fluid because it's not good to mix. I also heard that going up to DOT 5 fluid can do harm to the lines if you don't have SS lines.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
[/quote]

Correct on both accounts. Dot 5 can turb to sludge when mixed with Dot 3.
 

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I suppose that I could always buy any DOT 4 fluid and have a local shop do the work. No need for the shop to charge me extra for supplies and labor.
 

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the service manual actually says to bleed in this order:
left rear, front right, right rear, front left, not the order specified above.
 

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Well, I hope flushing and bleeding are different projects. I took a small hose, unplugged the bleed valve, then placed the hose on the 'bump,' and placed the other end into an oil bucket. I then pumped the brake pedal until the master cylinder was empty.

Then I disconnected the brake lines and started replacing them with the DSS brake lines. They look sweet. They're red lines with some nice hardware. The rears are on and done already. :lol:

Now for the fronts...
 

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Well done Smooth...a nice sense of self-satisfaction comes with going these tasks yourself...plus you save some coin (for wheels?).
 

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:lol: It's always a bonus when saving money and doing it yourself. I will try to tackle the fronts today. It looks a bit more complicated than the rears.
 

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Here's the first corner I started with...wasn't as bad as I thought.


The rest were pretty easy once I knew what to do. I literally sat there and stared at the assembly for about 10 minutes trying to memorize everything before taking it apart. Yes, those are DSS brake lines. They're nice...:drool:

Here's the rest of Monica 'on the operating table.'


 

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[/quote]
Thanks, Kenny. It does do that, for sure.

So does anyone have any pointers for me before I complete the process? The braided lines are on, my master cylinder is empty (awaiting the Motul), the front pads will be new, and the calipers are on their way to being powdercoated.

I'm sure I'll need to find a friend to help me with bleeding and what not. That would be nice, anyway. I pay with food and beer!
 

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the stuff posted here have been very informative and easy to follow, but i was just wondering if anyone can help with a detailed and step - by step (service/workshop manual will come in handy) procedure of bleeding and replacing brake pads in tandum? im running under a tight budget and the service centers are trying to basically make money out of me , like they always do.

ive gone over the tutorial section on how to replace break pads and it seems pretty straight forward enough, but im not to sure about the bleeding part. just recently ive been hearing some sreaching noises coming from the front wheels. This pretty much tells me that my pads are worn out, but i dont know if theyre entirely worn out for sure.

The tutorial mentions that if the pads are particularly worn out that the brake fluid reservoir be drained, bled, and then replaced accordingly. i would just like to know if it is absolutely essential for bleeding to occur before replacing the brake pads?

cheers

mr350zed
 

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I'm going to recommend that you get a friend or two to help you out when bleeding brakes. It would be extremely difficult to do by yourself. As for bleeding, you mentioned the reservoir be drained, but you don't have to drain it to bleed it. That's 2 different processes. At least that's the way I look at it. I drained my fluid so I could replace all my brake lines.
 

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Dave, how did you drain the resivoir? I'm replacing my fluids as well, and I understand how to bleed the brakes, but if it's two different things, I would like to know this as well. Also, do you bleed them first and then drain them? or opposite?
 

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Okay, so I got all the brakes and lines put back together. Keeping my fingers crossed that I got the pads put on the correct side and all...

I filled up the reservoir and continued to do so until it stopped sucking it down. Then I pumped the brakes many times. I did this (I suppose) to circulate the fluids and push it through the system. :dunno:

Now I have to bleed it, but lost time and didn't have a helping hand. Doesn't look like I'll be able to make it with her on Monday, which is a shame since it's supposed to be close to 70º in MN in April. :werd:
 

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:furious: Why is it not working!!!!!!!!!!!!! AAAARRRGH!!!!! So far, I've spent about 45 minutes (at least) bleeding them. No air bubbles are coming out, but the pedal still goes all the way down when I turn the ignition on! WTF! Any helpful pointers folks?
 

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With Bill's advice, I went ahead and took off the front calipers, changed the pads around, and noticed that in fact I did insert the pads incorrectly. However, there is one thing I either forgot to do or didn't think I needed to do. I did not push the piston completely in with a c-clamp. I will be doing that today to hopefully and finally solve my problem.

Buddy, I hope you see this.
 

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smooth......are the break pads marked in any particular way giving an indication which order it is meant to be installed in? hence avoiding incorrect installation....

cheers

mr350zed
 
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