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Discussion Starter #1
This is the first thing I'm doind on my own to the "Z" so I am wondering>>>???

Do I have to bleed the lines if I am only changing the pads in the front??? THANKS...

I have read the DIY's on changing pads, I just didn't see anything in there bout having to bleed the lines after you change the pads... but my friend said I should bleed them... Then I read the tutorial on bleeding and it says to start in the right rear tire... so do I have to bleed them or not???? THANKS AGAIN...

I'm:
:stupid:
 

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You'll need to take out a little bit of fluid to change the pads. You will need a c-clamp to push the calipers out so you can fit in the pads. When you do this, you have to give your master cylinder some room for the fluid when it raises due to you manipulating the calipers.

So your best bet is to bleed the brakes a little bit but don't let the master go dry.

dave is recalling this from memory and is not responsible for perfection...
 

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HANG ON THERE SMOOTHZ YOU DONT WANT HIM TO SCREW UP THE ABS SYSTEM!!!!!!!!!!!!!

open the bleeder bolt on the caliper itself when using a clamp to push the caliper. This is the easiest way to do this! If you're brake system is totally fine except for having LOW pads then I doubt there are air bubbles in it.

read below!!




when the front wheel is off most likely you should be able to remove one bolt and swing the caliper out of the way.

swap pads. as long as the rotors are not warped you can just slap some new ones on. ok here is a cool trick

open the bleeder valve and push the cylynder back in. and close it imeediatly. then swing it back down and bolt it up.

go in the car and pump the brake pedal till its hard. check the brake fluid.

ok here is the trick......................... have you ever heard of gravity bleeding.

loosen the bleeder valve enough so that it drips out pretty good. dont loosen it so much that it comes of the caliper.

in time it will bleed it self. and just keep filling up the brake fluid on top!

besides when you bleed the caliper and push the cylender back in place alot of brake fluid will bleed out.

this alone should be enough. but you could do the extra step if you want.

i did this on my acura which had ABS. worked fine.

are you just replacing the pads with stock.

I would do the napa auto parts pads. ask for the premium pads (no ceramic) because these particular pads will give you some ummmph to stopping power and they are cheaper thatn the dealer. i just swapped mine out for napa pads in the front and it brakes waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay better now!

but buy whatever you want. it's you're money!

P.S. I hate using shims cause they always slip of the pad and usually grind on the rotor and cause a shrieking sound.

throw them away they never worked for me anyhow! i dont know how many front brake jobs ive done including replacing bad calipers.

you will save you're self some embarasment in the future. nothing cooler than some hot chicks checking you out and you brake and hear a loud shiek and cringe and they laugh! it can happen with stock shims also. it happend to me!
 

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:stupid: :helpsmilie: What he said. :cheers:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Do you guys think I will be alright buying the $30 pads from local parts store, or should i buy the $75 ones from the dealer??? THANKS
 

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Do you guys think I will be alright buying the $30 pads from local parts store, or should i buy the $75 ones from the dealer??? THANKS

Go with the Hawk HPS brake pads, a great pad and VERY low brake dust.
 
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