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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All -

I'm somewhat new to car audio, but I'm doing my part to get up to speed. I'm reading lots from the Tutorials / Forums, but still need some help and advice... so thanks in advance for your replies.

Goal: I'm going for good clean sound, not trying to build a competition system, piss of my neighbors, make my ears bleed, etc.

Cost: I have money, I'm willing to spend some, maybe around $1000. Again, not trying to build a competition system, just want great sound.

Initial thoughts:
  • I have an old Kenwood KAC-606 AMP (2x 50W or 1x 150W bridged) with a 10" Infinity Sub in a bandpass enclosure. This combination was extremely loud in my old Integra, people thought I had a couple of 15's in my trunk. I'd like to use the AMP, and maybe the enclosure to save money, but it's a poor fit in front of the rear strut and probably too loud. Ultimately I will probably favor replacing it. Maybe I can use the existing 10" speaker in a new sealed enclosure. Recommendations welcome.
  • Replace factory headunit with Pioneer DEH-P6900UB CD Receiver to gain iPOD functionality. Reviews on this unit are pretty good in comparison to some like models from other manufacturers.
  • The front speakers don't sound too bad to me, but then again, I've never had anything but stock speakers in my previous cars. If I replace them, I'm planning on the Polk Audio db6500 6-1/2" Component System.
  • The rear speakers suck ass and I'd like to replace them, though I've already read that this won't improve staging and is probably a waste of money. Opinions welcome. If you think I should replace the rear speakers, please recommend a set of Polks that would work.
Procedures I'm planning to use:
Seat Removal
Dash Removal & Head Unit Installation
Center Console Removal
Rear Panel Removal
Only if I'm going to replace the rear speakers or if needed to access the Bose Subwoofer Cubby behind the drivers seat. Can I just pull off the stock panel to reach that cubby without removing anything else?
Front Speaker Wire Routing Using Factory Harness & Wire Loom
In the 2007 350z, the inside part of the wiring harness is not readily accessible, but up behind the front dash. The dash looks like it might be able to be removed with 3 bolts, one near the power outlet, one under the bottom right corner, and one in the airvent leading to the door jam. Does anyone know this to be true? I have not seen instructions for the 2007. Should I be concerned about deploying my front airbag? I'd like to avoid that for obvious reasons. If I can't take off the front dash, I can still get to the inside harness, but it will be difficult at best.
Front Component Speaker & Crossover Installation
In the 2007 350z, I think the door removal instructions might be different than shown in this link. I've pulled up on the rear part of the 'armrest' on both doors and I hear it pop, but the piece doesn't want to pull out. On the drivers side, I don't have a 'plastic cup' in the door handle with a screw in the bottom, the 'plastic cup' in the door handle is 'bottomless' and goes straight through. Not sure how to get my door planels off. If/when I do get them off, I'd like to know if anyone knows if the Polk Components mentioned above will fit without spacers to avoid my windows. Also, is there room for the crossover and clearance to remount the door panels?
Install New Tweeters in Factory Tweeter Location
350z How-To's - Excellent pictures and descriptions on this page, to complement the procedures above.

Amplifiers:
I figure I'll need a 4-channel amp to run the 2 front components and 2 rears (unless I don't bother with the rear speakers), then I can use my old Kenwood to power a 10" in sub (maybe) if it will provide enough power to whatever sub I wind up with. I'd like to mount both if possible in the Bose Subwoofer Cubby behind the drivers seat. I'd like to build an amp rack in there, so if you have dimensions can you please post them? If anyone has any advice about what combination of amps to get, please share your thoughts. Or maybe I should skip the rear speakers and consolidate down to a single amp mounted under the front passenger seat to make it more accessible. Manufacturer... Kenwood, Alpine, Profile (more bang for the buck unless you have problems)... please share your experiences.

Subwoofer:
JL Sealed Enclosure (Custom Fit)
This is by far the nicest enclosure I've seen yet. A good use of the wasted space between the bulkhead and rear strut, and still leaves you room in the trunk. The box also bolts down so it's not going anywhere. Too bad this thing is $800 retail, probably $600 best price. I'm told the two 10" JLs in the box are $200/each. I think it's too much money. Anybody seen something like this for less money? Also, I probably only need 1 10" sub in the back, 2 would probably be overkill since the 350z has such a small cabin already.

Any other advice you can offer is much appreciated. Again, I plan to start purchasing and installing within the next week or so, so I will post pictures of the process for those who haven't touched their 2007's yet, and daytime pictures of the final install once complete.

Thanks!
 

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If you are looking for the cleanest sound for the Z, here is what I recommend:

Option 1
  • One 4-channel amp that can bridge to 250w RMS or more
  • One quality 10" subwoofer rated at 250-300w RMS and a 4ohm load rating
  • One pair of quality 6.5" component speakers
Toss out the rear speakers. They are not going to add any value to your system whatsoever. Take the rear channels of the amp and bridge them to power your single 10" sub. Ideally you want 50-75w RMS to the front components and at least 200w RMS to the sub. I would suggest 300w RMS to the sub if you can find an amp to do that (there are some). Install the 10" in a nice small sealed enclosure. Ideal location is the back corner which will not take up much trunk space and will provide excellent sound.

Option 2
This option is more expensive, but I thought I would throw it out anyways. The only difference here is instead of a single 4-channel amp, you will get 2 amps:
  • One 2-channel amp to power the front components
  • One mono-channel amp to power the subwoofer.
The cons of this setup are obvious: 2 amps cost more than 1.

My line of thinking is that simple is better. This will give you a clean, compact system, that will player beyond what your ears are made to handle.

If you want more specifics as far as what brands I recommend, ask away.
 

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Option one that toykilla suggested is the best solution. I just installed 2 10" rockford fosgate punches. I used a 4 channel rockford fosgate 1800 peak watt amp. I got the subs hooked up to the amp, and the front two speackers in the doors are amplified. The back 2 speakers and the bose sub are disconnected. The sound that comes from the front 2 speakers sounds like I am in a Imax theater. The sound is fantastic. And there is no annoying sounds coming from the back 2 speakers.

Its not competition ready but the sound quality in the car is awesome cause the subs are facing the back of the car so its like a giant box back there.

You can get a different sub and replace the bose stock 8". I thought of doing that option but I didn't want the loud sub right behind my seat hitting me in the back. Plus it is possible that the sound might be muffled alittle for the rest of the car because you sit right infront of it.
 

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One question. I have a 03 with the bose. The sub behind the driver seat, whats the biggest can i go?. I dont want a box in the back so i figured i could put a better sub to replace the stock bose one. good idea?.
 

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One question. I have a 03 with the bose. The sub behind the driver seat, whats the biggest can i go?. I dont want a box in the back so i figured i could put a better sub to replace the stock bose one. good idea?.
sames... i am gettin an 07.... i want to do the same. i was under the inmpression it was a 10 inch tho??

too much show in the boot = stolen
it is an oversize 10", meaning you cant just buy a sub and drop it in. You can use that location but you will have to have a custom box made.
 

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I put a custom box in the back of my 03 roadster and it fit right underneath the rear strut bar. I didn't lose any cargo space at all and it was a very clean install. The subs can't be seen from the outside either which is nice.
Do the 06 and 07 350's come with 2 subs or just the one behind the driver?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks guys for the posts... I'm going to reply to everyone at once.

TOYKILLA:
Ideally you want 50-75w RMS to the front components and at least 200w RMS to the sub. I would suggest 300w RMS to the sub if you can find an amp to do that (there are some). Install the 10" in a nice small sealed enclosure. Ideal location is the back corner which will not take up much trunk space and will provide excellent sound.
Option 1: 'keep it simple' is definitely a good rule to live by and I'll probably go this route. I'm thinking of getting this amp: Infinity Reference 475a 4-channel It seems pretty versitile... 4x75W or 2x180W, each at 4ohms. If I sold the car I'd keep the amp and reuse it. In any case, this should very closely match the 50-75W you are quoting for the fronts, but won't quite deliver the 200-300W RMS that you are suggesting for the sub. Is this critical? Do you think I could get away with 180W to the sub? I guess it depends on the power rating of the sub, right? In my old Integra I bridged my Kenwood 2x50W to 150W for my 10" Infinity sub in a bandpass box and it was insane! I can't imagine I'll really need more than the 180W bridged this Infinity amp could provide, but I've never done a sealed box setup before. Anyways, I have done quite a bit of research and haven't seen a 4 channel yet where 2 channels will bridge to more than 200W, and the remaining 2 channels will still remain below 100W RMS. If you know of one, do post a link to it.

Option 2: still a possibility. Two amps do cost more than one, but I already have one. I can use my Kenwood 2x50W to power my fronts, and buy a mono amp as you suggested. This leads me to a new question. Let's say I got a mono amp capable of delivering 400W RMS at 4 ohms. Can I somehow 'reduce' the power delivery of that amp to say the 300W you are suggesting? I know, why would I want to spend the money on an amp capable of 400W only to deliver 300W? Simple... I can reuse the amp later on to meet the needs of many different subs.

Do share your brand recommendations, particularly for the component speakers in the doors... I want a clean fit without a lot of install hassle.

Finally, I've only seen one rear-end corner box for the 350z (click here). Is this what you would recommend?

N8Z:
is it not possible to use the existing location of the bose sub and replace it? ...... inaccessable?????
Anything is possible. As Toykilla said though, the Bose sub is a non-standard 10" mount. To me this means a lot of potential frustration to get something standard to fit in a non-standard bracket. It's probably not worth the effort. Also as tally350 said, it'll just be pounding you in the back and might not sound as good to your passenger. Not to mention that the cubby behind the drivers seat is not a 'box', it's meant for an open air sub install than an enclosure. You might be able to build an enclosure to fit in there (maybe even for a larger speaker) but again, probably more trouble than it's worth. I also don't know yet how easy it is to access that little compartment in the first place. So I guess it depends on your goals. If it's great sound you're after, installing an open air sub in this cubby probably isn't the best solution. If you're going for a stealth install it would be perfect... and as you illuded to we definitely don't want our stuff stolen!

BUKUCUSTOMS:
The sub behind the driver seat, whats the biggest can i go?. I dont want a box in the back so i figured i could put a better sub to replace the stock bose one. good idea?.
See my response to N8Z.

TALLY350:
Option one that toykilla suggested is the best solution. I just installed 2 10" rockford fosgate punches. I used a 4 channel rockford fosgate 1800 peak watt amp. I got the subs hooked up to the amp, and the front two speackers in the doors are amplified. The back 2 speakers and the bose sub are disconnected. The sound that comes from the front 2 speakers sounds like I am in a Imax theater. The sound is fantastic. And there is no annoying sounds coming from the back 2 speakers.
Do you feel that your two 10" subs are too much? What kind of music do you mostly listen to? How much W RMS are going to each sub and your component speakers? What speakers did you use for your components?

I put a custom box in the back of my 03 roadster and it fit right underneath the rear strut bar. I didn't lose any cargo space at all and it was a very clean install. The subs can't be seen from the outside either which is nice. Do the 06 and 07 350's come with 2 subs or just the one behind the driver?
I think you mean hatchback, because there is no cargo space to begin with in the roadster. ;) My guess is you have something like this (click here) or this (click here). I prefer the second link because the box is more stealth... sort of like the JL box I linked to in my first post but for a single 10" speaker instead of two. The 2007 has space for a single sub behind the driver.
 

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I have the first one with 2 10s"
I like the second one also but I was thinking it wouldn't have been loud enough, plus I didn't want to loose that cargo area right behind the seat.

I don't think that the 2 10" are too much... I love the way it sounds inside the car, it hits nice and low.. But if your on the outside of the car its not obnoxiously loud like most cars out there. I listen to everything except country.. Techno, rap, rock etc.. The vocals that are coming from the component speakers is crisp and clear.. They are the stock bose speakers I didn't feel like I needed to get new ones cause bose makes great speakers. I'm running 250 watts to each sub with a peak of 500.. I am not 100% sure whats running to the component speakers but I think its around 75w.

Thats mine.. took the upper strut cover off to do some work..

 

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Discussion Starter #11
Small update. I never looked closely enough I guess, but I was able to easily disassemble my old bandpass box and remove my old sub... 5 minutes, no problem. I just downloaded the manual for the sub:

Specifications:
Infinity Reference 1000w.br
Diameter: 10"
Sensitivity: 92 dB
Power Handling: 225W RMS
Frequency Response: 30 ~ 800 Hz
Nominal Impedence: 4 ohms
Mounting Depth: 4.625"
Cutout Diameter: 9.10"
Outer Diameter: 10.20"

Per the manual:

"We have included three enclosure types -- sealed, vented, and single-reflex bandpass -- with three different alignments (ie, tuning preferences) for each box. Please refer to the discussion in 'Subwoofer Enclosure Trade-Offs'] and associated performance graphs (on the inside pages) to select a desired enclosure type and alignment."

"We recommend a sealed enclosure for the Reference 1000w.br. Depending on your taste in music, you can select a box volume for a flat, enhanced, or extended bass response (see graphs on right). The flat response is optimum for all enclosures and types of music. The enhanced sealed box provides a "tighter" bass, great for rock and rap. An enhanced vented box has increased output, but with deminished transient response and power handling. The extended sealed box is more efficient at the lowest frequencies, providing added bass boost for jazz and classical music, but with diminished power handling. The extended response curve provides the best power handling for vented enclosures".

Sealed Enclosure, Flat Response: 0.50ft3
Sealed Enclsoure, Enhanced Response: 0.30ft3
Sealed Enclosure, Extended Response: 0.80ft3

Sweet. I can definitely use this sub, just have to fit the right box for the music. Based on the power handling above, 180W from the bridged Infinity amp I plan to buy should be pretty good. 200W might be a little better, but 300W would blow the speaker so that's too much.

Note to self: start reading the manuals for the **** you buy. ;)

I also found an alternative amp, which will provide 80W RMS to my front components, and exactly 225W bridged to my sub which handles 225W. However, it's a Profile Amp rather than the Infinity Amp I mentioned earlier. The Profile is half the price of the Infinity, and it has a 2 year warranty whereas the Infinity has a 1 year warranty. Seems like a pretty good deal, but as they say, 'you get what you pay for'. Seems sort of contradictory. Will the 'quality' of sound from the Profile be the same as the Infinity? Has anyone got experience with Profile amps?
 

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Tally350.
i like the sub enclosure in the boot deal.... will the 07 enclosure be the same as the 0-previous?

i thought only the engines/hood was the only real difference in the 07... but there is reflector size differences yada yada + some

if they are i may too take the path of the rear sub option.... not that i have looked, but the enclosure is gonna be another on of those shipped from the US stories.

how difficult is the deck removal/replacement? yes bose, no nav. (seen the threds just askin for a scale 1-10 answer really)

Curleyjoe.
good luck look forward to a killer write up, i will be watching!
and now you gotta stick around for a yr min.... i know i am gonna pick ur brain lata on this install at some stage.
Seeing as i dont even have a Z to toy with yet, and the stock system will kill my current daily!

N8
 

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I'm not 100% sure if it will fit in the 07 but I don't see why not... The bose unit came out pretty easy. There are only 4 screws that hold it in. The hardest part of the installation was getting the box underneath the bar.. You have to take off all the plastic pieces in the trunk. Took about an hour or two to do that..

10 being hard... 6 1/2
 

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just my 2 cents, but i went with a rather low-tech setup, and got better results that i could have hoped for. after replacing the factory speakers in the car, i wanted to put a sub in the back, but not lose the functionality of the trunk space when needed (what little there is) and also be able to remove the sub for track days. after a little bit of looking, i found a down-firing, sealed sub box traditionally used for pickup trucks that slides perfectly under the rear strut bar. i put a 12" JL W3/V2 sub and hooked it up to a 1200 watt amp running 350w RMS. again, it was more for kicks and giggles rather than crazy power, and the sub was left over from another car i previously owned.

the only leg work i had to do was to cut out a 1/4" MDF replacment for the stock plastic undertray in the back. the MDF wasn't as heavy as i originally thought, and the benefits for both vibration elimination and sound deadening were quite substantial. again, this is NOT what i'd call a "clean" setup, but my single 12 will usually hit harder and cleaner than most dual 10" setups i've heard.

most likely unneccesary, but i can post pics if needed...
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I'm curious about the sub enclosure you used. Do you have a link to it? Pictures are welcome, if you have the time.

I still can't get any input about how to get my 2007 door panels removed. If I can't figure that out, I can't replace my front speakers. I may have to pay someone to do this professionally, or abort the project for now until information becomes available.
 

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all i had was my camera phone, but lets see if this helps...



in car view:
[attachment=22554:SP_A0008.jpg]
[attachment=22555:SP_A0009.jpg]

outside view:
[attachment=22556:SP_A0010.jpg]
[attachment=22557:SP_A0011.jpg]

the box is actually slanted at an angle as you can see in the 3rd picture. i purchased the box from a local audio shop...i think the guy said it was originally designed for sliding under the back seat of a GM branded vehicle. the one thing i have to recommend is the MDF for the trunk like i talked about in the previous post. my sub didn't sound good AT ALL until i cut out the MDF to replace the plastic trunk tray. trust me, banging a 12" sub off a flimsy piece of plastic won't do you any good for quality, clarity or even volume without it.

lol...if you're anywhere in the Baton Rouge area, you're welcome to come and hear it! :irock:
 

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Discussion Starter #17
HEADUNIT INSTALLED
===============

There was a set of wires running to the back of my stock stereo system before I installed, which had a brown wiring harness. Does anyone know what this harness is for? There was not a spot to plug this in at the back of my new stereo, naturally, so I'm wondering what doesn't work now.

Anyways, I decided to go with the Pioneer DEH-P7900BT headunit. Since my car is a stick, driving requires both hands so I sprung a little extra money to get the Bluetooth functionality for my phone and I'm glad I did. I tested it out last night and it works great. I highly recommend it for anyone with a manual transmission... pretty cool.

I bought the unit from Crutchfield. It probably cost me a little extra this way, but this was my first car stereo install so I felt more comfortable knowing I'd have Crutchfield tech support to back me up if I needed it. I didn't. They sent me an install kit and instructions, and those coupled with the dash removal tutorial (link provided elsewhere in this post) were good enough. Once I got the center dash piece removed, I detatched the stereo from the dash piece, then removed the factory mounting brackets from the old stereo. I attached these brackets to my new stereo using screws Crutchfield provided (the factory screws didn't thread right). I then mounted the stereo back into the center dash piece and put it back into the car. In my opinion it was much easier to take the dash out than to put it back in... it really does help to have an extra pair of hands while doing the install.

I haven't fully tested all of the stereo's features yet, but it installed rather easily and looks pretty clean. The fit in the dash isn't completely perfect but it's pretty darn close... there is a small gap between the top of the stereo and the top of the install kit (see photo #1), but you can't see it from the vantage points of either the drivers seat or the passengers seat. In that same photo you can see two black holes in the gap, which is where the trim plate from the install kit would snap in. This trim plate could probably cover up that gap, but as you can see there isn't anywhere for it to snap in on the bottom due to the DIN cage for the stereo. I could probably make this fit by cutting or shaving the clips on the bottom of the trim plate, but like I said, I can't see it from where I drive so I think the install looks just fine with the trim plate that came with the stereo. There is an Aux Input jack which I fed through an existing hole into the small drawer below the stereo which is part of the install kit (see photo #2). I also ran my iPOD integration cable through to the Navigation cubby since I don't have NAV (see photo #3) where I put my iPOD and remaining cable length. Great spot since it's all hidden away. Under the rubber lining mat for the NAV cubby on the right side, I left the little piece of plastic removed and ran the cable. The cable charges my iPOD and navigating the iPOD using the headunit menus is actually rather simple and effective with no delays. I read the reviews on this product before purchasing, and I got what I was expecting.

I clipped the microphone to the NAV door for this picture because I haven't decided exactly where I'm going to mount it yet. I want to test it and mount it where I know callers can hear me well. The wire for the microphone is very long and I have most of it hidden away behind the controls for the A/C. When you remove the A/C control panel, there is a piece of white towel/cloth, which I supposed is to catch any condensation from the white A/C box in there. I put all of the excess wiring underneath this little towel, then fed it out the left side near the drivers seat.

The stereo LEDs are blue, which doesn't match my orange dash. Not a big deal during the day since the dash lights aren't on. At night it looks a little weird but I'm not anal about that kind of thing... I bought the stereo for it's functionality, not its ability to match my dash perfectly. The blue LEDs are easy to read at night so I like it. In a week or two I probably won't pay any mind to the fact that the colors don't match my dash.

See attached pictures.

PHOTO #1
[attachment=22790:DSCN1533.JPG]

PHOTO #2
[attachment=22788:DSCN1535.JPG]

PHOTO #3
[attachment=22789:DSCN1536.JPG]
 

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**** nice job! you have all my respect...i just pay people to put my stuff in. nice to see someone who actually WORKS on their car!
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Well it was all for nothing... F*CK

I guess this is what your stolen car looks like if you're "lucky" enough to get it back: CLICK HERE

IMAGE_00121 - outside of the car, rear rims missing on both sides, front lug nuts missing on front rims, body shop pink marking all scratches and dents, no major body damage but scratches and dings on just about every panel of the car
IMAGE_00122 - view in driver's side door, notice under the steering column, center dash, and the front passenger seat is chalk full of my car's interior parts
IMAGE_00123 - under steering column close up, lots of eletrical components missing
IMAGE_00124 - center dash missing, shifter knob gone, entire centeral console up past the emergency brake removed
IMAGE_00125 - hard to recognize but this is behind drivers seat looking across the car, see the small window on the opposing side... all panels removed from the entire car, airbags were all removed
IMAGE_00126 - the rest of the "garbage" from my car's interior occupies the trunk, along with contents from my glove box

When I looked under the car, stuff was dragging on the ground. Looks like muffler, etc, was removed. The body shop listed the interior as "complete damage"... it would take too long to inventory. My seats were completely unbolted from the chasis but left in the car.

All of this can be yours in a few short hours! Car was last seen around 10pm on 1/23/08. Parked just outside my friends window, we didn't hear the car start, didn't hear the alarm go off, no broken glass where my car was parked, no skid marks either. Reported stolen around 7am on 1/24/08. The car was picked up by Hollywood PD sometime later on 1/24/08, but Hollywood PD "forgot" to call me so it sat in the tow yard for 4 days (our tax dollars hard at work).

$1000-$1500 in personal property lost from the interior.
 

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Well it was all for nothing... F*CK

I guess this is what your stolen car looks like if you're "lucky" enough to get it back: CLICK HERE

IMAGE_00121 - outside of the car, rear rims missing on both sides, front lug nuts missing on front rims, body shop pink marking all scratches and dents, no major body damage but scratches and dings on just about every panel of the car
IMAGE_00122 - view in driver's side door, notice under the steering column, center dash, and the front passenger seat is chalk full of my car's interior parts
IMAGE_00123 - under steering column close up, lots of eletrical components missing
IMAGE_00124 - center dash missing, shifter knob gone, entire centeral console up past the emergency brake removed
IMAGE_00125 - hard to recognize but this is behind drivers seat looking across the car, see the small window on the opposing side... all panels removed from the entire car, airbags were all removed
IMAGE_00126 - the rest of the "garbage" from my car's interior occupies the trunk, along with contents from my glove box

When I looked under the car, stuff was dragging on the ground. Looks like muffler, etc, was removed. The body shop listed the interior as "complete damage"... it would take too long to inventory. My seats were completely unbolted from the chasis but left in the car.

All of this can be yours in a few short hours! Car was last seen around 10pm on 1/23/08. Parked just outside my friends window, we didn't hear the car start, didn't hear the alarm go off, no broken glass where my car was parked, no skid marks either. Reported stolen around 7am on 1/24/08. The car was picked up by Hollywood PD sometime later on 1/24/08, but Hollywood PD "forgot" to call me so it sat in the tow yard for 4 days (our tax dollars hard at work).

$1000-$1500 in personal property lost from the interior.
What makes this even more depressing is that we watched this build up. I am truly sorry this happened guy. I hope you catch them.
 
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