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Discussion Starter #1
What’s the difference? Just did a engine swap for my 07’ Base G35 with an 2004-2006 DE from a 350z. It’s not running correctly. It starts and slowly decrease rpms and stalls.


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Is your Infiniti a coupe or sedan? Did you use the engine harness from the Z, or just reuse the harness from the G? Were there any codes held in memory after you tried running it?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Is your Infiniti a coupe or sedan? Did you use the engine harness from the Z, or just reuse the harness from the G? Were there any codes held in memory after you tried running it?
It’s a coupe and I used the original harness from the G. No codes, but I am getting codes when I disconnect thing like the MAF sensor so the ECM is responding.


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After you clear all codes and then run the car until it stalls, what codes are held in memory? The VQ35DE should be the same for both models, although the '07 G35 seems to be listed with both the DE and HR motor (depends on production date).
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
After you clear all codes and then run the car until it stalls, what codes are held in memory? The VQ35DE should be the same for both models, although the '07 G35 seems to be listed with both the DE and HR motor (depends on production date).
So I changed they injectors (Came with new engine), fuel pressure regulator (Brand new) and throttle body (From new engine) and Ii’s running but you can hear it misfire. So now I’m getting code P0300 of course. I think the coils are not connected correctly.



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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
So I got it working. Took a ride to the gas station and the P0300 code went away. The car then went into limp mode and started overheating. The new code is now P2101.


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P2101- The throttle actuator is operated by the ECM and opens and closes the throttle valve. Power supply for the throttle control motor is provided to the ECM via throttle control motor relay. The throttle control motor relay is ON/OFF and controlled by the ECM. When the ignition switch is turned ON, the ECM sends an ON signal to throttle control motor relay and battery voltage is provided to the ECM. When the ignition switch is turned OFF, the ECM sends an OFF signal to throttle control motor relay and battery voltage is not provided to the ECM. The opening angle of the throttle valve is detected by the throttle position sensor which is mounted on the throttle body. The throttle position sensor provides feedback to the ECM. This feedback allows the ECM to control the throttle actuator and monitor the throttle opening angle in response to driver inputs.

The problem could be in three areas:
1. Faulty Electric Throttle Control (ETC) or Actuator Electric Throttle Control (ETC).
2) Actuator harness is open or shorted.
3) Electric Throttle Control (ETC) Actuator circuit has poor electrical connection.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
P2101- The throttle actuator is operated by the ECM and opens and closes the throttle valve. Power supply for the throttle control motor is provided to the ECM via throttle control motor relay. The throttle control motor relay is ON/OFF and controlled by the ECM. When the ignition switch is turned ON, the ECM sends an ON signal to throttle control motor relay and battery voltage is provided to the ECM. When the ignition switch is turned OFF, the ECM sends an OFF signal to throttle control motor relay and battery voltage is not provided to the ECM. The opening angle of the throttle valve is detected by the throttle position sensor which is mounted on the throttle body. The throttle position sensor provides feedback to the ECM. This feedback allows the ECM to control the throttle actuator and monitor the throttle opening angle in response to driver inputs.

The problem could be in three areas:
1. Faulty Electric Throttle Control (ETC) or Actuator Electric Throttle Control (ETC).
2) Actuator harness is open or shorted.
3) Electric Throttle Control (ETC) Actuator circuit has poor electrical connection.
I’ll check these out and get back to you.


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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
P2101- The throttle actuator is operated by the ECM and opens and closes the throttle valve. Power supply for the throttle control motor is provided to the ECM via throttle control motor relay. The throttle control motor relay is ON/OFF and controlled by the ECM. When the ignition switch is turned ON, the ECM sends an ON signal to throttle control motor relay and battery voltage is provided to the ECM. When the ignition switch is turned OFF, the ECM sends an OFF signal to throttle control motor relay and battery voltage is not provided to the ECM. The opening angle of the throttle valve is detected by the throttle position sensor which is mounted on the throttle body. The throttle position sensor provides feedback to the ECM. This feedback allows the ECM to control the throttle actuator and monitor the throttle opening angle in response to driver inputs.

The problem could be in three areas:
1. Faulty Electric Throttle Control (ETC) or Actuator Electric Throttle Control (ETC).
2) Actuator harness is open or shorted.
3) Electric Throttle Control (ETC) Actuator circuit has poor electrical connection.
So I cleaned the throttle body and the P2101 code went away. I also performed an idle relearn and it operated normally. Then it started to misfire on cylinder 1-P0301. The engine sounds really loud to me. Not sure if this is common for a G35. The exhaust is stock with the exception of an aftermarket y-pipe.


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So I cleaned the throttle body and the P2101 code went away. I also performed an idle relearn and it operated normally. Then it started to misfire on cylinder 1-P0301. The engine sounds really loud to me. Not sure if this is common for a G35. The exhaust is stock with the exception of an aftermarket y-pipe.


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Glad to hear the TB cleaning solved your P2101 code. Not sure what to tell you on the misfire on #1, but assume you checked plug and coil. It's not normal for a G35 to be loud. It's a luxury car, right? Check the flanges and gaskets on your exhaust system to find any leaks. Should be easy to do on jack stands with the car running.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Glad to hear the TB cleaning solved your P2101 code. Not sure what to tell you on the misfire on #1, but assume you checked plug and coil. It's not normal for a G35 to be loud. It's a luxury car, right? Check the flanges and gaskets on your exhaust system to find any leaks. Should be easy to do on jack stands with the car running.
It’s weird because I’m hearing more of the exhaust from bank 1 and less from the mufflers. Even the pop is coming from the front of the car. The car is overheating as well. The fans are working but the temperature keeps rising.


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Check the headers to see if there's a crack or leak if the noise is coming from the front. As for the overheating, have you touched both the top and bottom hoses to confirm they are hot after the car has warmed up?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Check the headers to see if there's a crack or leak if the noise is coming from the front. As for the overheating, have you touched both the top and bottom hoses to confirm they are hot after the car has warmed up?
There is a leak on the bank 1 catalytic converter for sure. A lot of air coming from the actual converter. But the sound seems like the exhaust is not even connected. There is barely any exhaust coming from the muffler but from what I can see it’s all connected.



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Were you able to check the header itself? If the sound is that loud, you may have a cracked or damaged header. What did that side look like before installation? Also, did you check torque values on the header bolts?

Also, you never answered the question about whether the radiator hoses are flowing properly (see post #12) to cool the engine.
 

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Were you able to check the header itself? If the sound is that loud, you may have a cracked or damaged header. What did that side look like before installation? Also, did you check torque values on the header bolts?

Also, you never answered the question about whether the radiator hoses are flowing properly (see post #12) to cool the engine.
Yes, radiator hoses are great. I didn’t properly bleed the system. I didn’t check them out. I should have, but it may have been damaged on the drive home from picking it up or the installer damaged it. So far I’ve found several issues with his installation.


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Discussion Starter #16
Were you able to check the header itself? If the sound is that loud, you may have a cracked or damaged header. What did that side look like before installation? Also, did you check torque values on the header bolts?

Also, you never answered the question about whether the radiator hoses are flowing properly (see post #12) to cool the engine.
Headers are fine until they connect to the catalytic converter. The upper bolt has a lose washer so it’s not tight. On the lower part of the cat, this seems to be very odd to me.




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The upper bolt may be a loose stud. There's very little clearance there and once the VQ is slotted in, it's difficult to get in there to replace it. You should be able to hear the exhaust leak very clearly if that's where it's from.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
The upper bolt may be a loose stud. There's very little clearance there and once the VQ is slotted in, it's difficult to get in there to replace it. You should be able to hear the exhaust leak very clearly if that's where it's from.
I wish I could let you hear it. It literally sounds like nothing else is bolted on from the stock headers.


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Discussion Starter #19
The upper bolt may be a loose stud. There's very little clearance there and once the VQ is slotted in, it's difficult to get in there to replace it. You should be able to hear the exhaust leak very clearly if that's where it's from.

Fortunately it’s not the manifold.


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Let's try again. Have you tried checking the three bolts from the exhaust manifold to the cats? The one on the inside is actually a stud that can come loose and not allow the flange to seal properly. That could explain the exhaust being so loud on that side.
 
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