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post #31 of 69 (permalink) Old 03-26-2006, 01:04 PM Thread Starter
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yes, 75 gl5 in the rear end is ok.

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post #32 of 69 (permalink) Old 03-28-2006, 02:21 AM
 
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Actually called about GL-5 today, according to Valvoline rep. it is actually the SULFUR in most GL-5 oils that eats away the bronze. Some non-reactives like Valvoline GL-5 don't contain the sulfur and should be fine.

Sooo.. out of curiosity, I also called Mobil1 rep... he said yes in fact Mobil1 GL-5 (75W90 synthetic) does contain sulfur and he said "DO NOT PUT THAT IN YOUR 350Z TRANSMISSSION" I am not kidding. So, that should help clear up any questions I hope. Think Redline MT-90 will be going into my new (3rd) tranny soon after I get the car back.

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post #33 of 69 (permalink) Old 04-10-2006, 10:39 PM Thread Starter
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cool.. thanks

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post #34 of 69 (permalink) Old 09-08-2006, 01:34 PM
 
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So Redline MT-90 and MTL is GL-4? Because thats what I have now!!

EDIT: Yes it is GL-4, both of them...
Have any of you tried GM synchromesh Friction Modified MT oil?

Manufactured for use in SS Camaros, GTOs and Corvettes
this oil transformed the shift action of my six speed Honda
gearbox in my Accord coupe.
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post #35 of 69 (permalink) Old 09-08-2006, 02:38 PM Thread Starter
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Have any of you tried GM synchromesh Friction Modified MT oil?

Manufactured for use in SS Camaros, GTOs and Corvettes
this oil transformed the shift action of my six speed Honda
gearbox in my Accord coupe.
have not heard of it

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post #36 of 69 (permalink) Old 09-08-2006, 04:24 PM
 
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have not heard of it
It's very popular among Acura/ Honda manual
tranny peeps. I swear by it. Here's info for the
AC Delco labeled, GM product. If you google
the name of the oil you'll get lots of links to
discussion forums where peeps are talking
about it.

Part 10-4014
88900399
Synchromesh Manual Transmission Fluid (Friction Modified)

* Contains a semi-synthetic lubricant compatible for use in NV 1500 transmissions
* Reduces transmission component wear

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post #37 of 69 (permalink) Old 11-13-2006, 11:50 AM
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I did my tranny and diff this weekend. Whoever put this fluid in at the factory did not put enough and i feel it was way too thick and it stunk like hell.

i drained the diff and used valvoline 75w-90 at 4.29 per quart. used 2 quarts and let the excess drain out the top hole.

Immediatly went for a test drive and the car seemed to accelerate faster or maybe it was now operating the way it's supposed to LOL.

anyways very happy.

then i did the tranny. FYI the tranny only needs 3.5 quarts of oil 75w-90. any more and it will drain out the side hole and on to the floor. I used a suction pump.

great results with that also. the tranny always seemed noisy to me from day one as if the throwout bearing was noisy but now that is gone and the car is smoother and quieter. I am very happy.


NOTE: no jackstands needed to do the diff if you use a suction pump. I had no difficulty doing it.

the front needs to be jacked up though and thank goodness the bottom cover does not need to be removed.


you can get the valvoline 75w-90 oil at autozone.

To bad castrol doesnt make that weight in oil or at least i didnt find it in any store i checked out. I use Castrol GTX in my engine and now on the bottle it says it has sludge protection which ive heard my dealer talk about as a big problem for nissan and the VW dealership accross the street.

anyway this is what i used. If anyone is uncomfortable with there tranny being noisy or notchy and the diff maybe a little whine at high speed i reccomend you swap out fluids right away as what came in from the factory is crap. i even suggest it on a new car.

hope this helps everyone.


By the way you dont need no replacement crush washers. ive done oilchanges on a honda civic to 260.000 miles and it never leaked due to a crush washer. just remember on the nissan its aluminum and you want it snug tight so you dont strip anything.


BTW it's a 6speed

Varis duct, K&N drop in , Motordyne 5/16 plenum spacer, Megan Headers, Megan Y pipe, Stock H.I.D. conversion, Topspeed A-arms w/adjustable camber, BC Racing Coilovers, Hotchkis sways (front stiffest rear middle). Stern Beast ST1 19 inch staggered wheels , Falken FK-452 Rubber. Whiteline urethane bushings
Next temporary mod is resonated test pipes with the stock y-pipe.
Next year Stillen supercharger stage 2 kit---order stage 3 pulley separately.
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post #38 of 69 (permalink) Old 11-13-2006, 01:25 PM
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i use all royal purple fluids on my 97 240sx. I love the stuff, it shifts smother, i get slightly better mileage, and it accelerated alittle quicker to 60 after doing the swap. Of course the last two probably had more to do w/ swapping engine transmission and rear diff all at once. I recommend it.
I've heard that the RP oils make the shifting smoother and is lighter than regular oils. This may account for the perceived quicker response from the car. Either way, it sounds like anything is better than the OEM stuff.

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Try royal purple max gear 75w-90
Yep, I think I'll be getting that for the tranny and gear box. I'm up for my 30k service soon.

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post #39 of 69 (permalink) Old 11-15-2006, 11:51 AM
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If you have the extra cash to spend i would go redline. my buddy marc just switched from royal purple to redline and now he refuses to switch back.

I guess its that good....................

Heck maybe ill switch in the spring...............

Varis duct, K&N drop in , Motordyne 5/16 plenum spacer, Megan Headers, Megan Y pipe, Stock H.I.D. conversion, Topspeed A-arms w/adjustable camber, BC Racing Coilovers, Hotchkis sways (front stiffest rear middle). Stern Beast ST1 19 inch staggered wheels , Falken FK-452 Rubber. Whiteline urethane bushings
Next temporary mod is resonated test pipes with the stock y-pipe.
Next year Stillen supercharger stage 2 kit---order stage 3 pulley separately.
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post #40 of 69 (permalink) Old 11-15-2006, 11:56 AM
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by the way you dont need royal purple syncromesh for the rear end.

there are no syncros in the rear end LOL.

i would go with valvoline or better in the rear end. because all this stuff is going for like 10 bucks a quart and you need 6 quarts for the tranny and the rear end. thats 60 bucks plus tax.

if you use valvoline in the rear end and redline in the tranny you can get away with 40 bucks.

plus you need to purchase a sucktion pump for like 10 bucks. and you need to get a allen socket which only comes in a set and cost me 14 bucks at autozone. so if you are not carefull you will end up spending 90 bucks including tax to to the entire job....................!!!!

Varis duct, K&N drop in , Motordyne 5/16 plenum spacer, Megan Headers, Megan Y pipe, Stock H.I.D. conversion, Topspeed A-arms w/adjustable camber, BC Racing Coilovers, Hotchkis sways (front stiffest rear middle). Stern Beast ST1 19 inch staggered wheels , Falken FK-452 Rubber. Whiteline urethane bushings
Next temporary mod is resonated test pipes with the stock y-pipe.
Next year Stillen supercharger stage 2 kit---order stage 3 pulley separately.
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