Z wobbles from side to side on the freeway in a straight line - Nissan 350Z Forum, Nissan 370Z Tech Forums
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-02-2008, 06:20 AM Thread Starter
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OK i have been through alot with this car.....

at 60k miles i bought new tires all the way around because I hated the All seasons that i had on there....

Keep in mind that the all seasons HID this problem from me untill i repurchased performance tires. I thought i was getting sidewall flex so i ended up getting the OEM bridgestones back on there at 61kmiles (begged America' Tire Co to swap them) ok there was an improvement with the Stiff sidewals, but i would still get wobble on the freeway....i swapped out the swaybar bushings with urethane bushings and the ride improved greatly!

Now it still wobbles on the freeway a little, but not as bad as before, so now i replaced the front struts and rear shocks with NEW ones thinking this would solve my problem! I WAS WRONG! Turns out that it is the swaybar endlinks causing the swaybar to sli around back and fourth and the steering feels sloppy AKA Swaybar Walking!....here is a cut and paste of the problem as described on another forum (yes i was desperate to find an answer and NEVER do this, but i was desperate)

"I am experiencing an odd "swaying left and right" motion... while driving in a straight line! Yes that is correct, straight line driving, not during cornering. My end links are still in place and nothing is broken. My first guess was perhaps a loose bolt ever since I installed my suspension? (Cusco Zero II's dropped 0.5 inches, Hotchkis sway bars - hard front med rear, GT Spec front/rear lower tie bars, tanabe underbrace) However, a loose bolt would make a noise from the extra play or at least a *clunk* when it sways, in my case, there is ZERO noise... the car drives straight, the wheels are straight, but the body itself leans from left to right. The shocks are basically brand new and the up/down rebound motion is perfectly fine. My BEST guess was because of the sway bar.. but what could possibly be wrong with a sway bar besides the... END LINKS! I just received my SPL rear links in the mail the other day and will install them by the end of today, but until then, any suggestions? BTW: I just had my alignment done 3 days ago and my mechanic got everything back to spec and he noticed this odd swaying motion, 3 days later (today) it got worse than ever. Hopefully end links will solve the issue.

I've been reading about people who "hit a bump on the highway and the rear end seems to lose control" this happens as well, perhaps it's all part of the same equation, who knows, any suggestions guys?"


THEN A FIX FOR THE PROBLEM!

"Just got back from the shop and installed the other rear SPL end link... Night and Day difference over the wimpy stock ones. The SPL's have a ball joint design with a polyurethane "cover" to protect the ball joint from any debris that might enter the mechanism. I took some pics of the install and I'll post them up when I get home. I replaced the front end links with new OEM factory links and the car doesn't shift from left to right anymore! So glad this issue got fixed within a day... driving around with broken end links was very dangerous and I felt as if the tail end would've whipped out any second during normal driving. Thoughts after driving:
Regular street driving - everything feels firmer again, no more wobble, solid! Lets hope these dont wimp out on me after I install beefier solid sway bars.
Highway cornering @ 80mph+ and hitting bumps while turning - STILL solid! Very well engineered product! I am satisfied... for now!"

AND ANOTHER GUY SOLVED HIS PROBLEM ON HIS G35

"I just replaced all 4 of my endlinks on my '04 G35 sedan with the supposed oem beefier links for an '05+ model. The old endlinks were definitely shot and the balljoints moved around too freely. Probably a combo of 4 track days, numerous canyon runs and crappy cali roads. After the install I could immediately tell the car felt much more solid and the slop had gone away. But the question is how long will these new oem end links last? Would be nice to go with a solid aftermarket end link that can take abuse."

OK so most of these guys bought aftermarket endlinks for over 300 bucks...ME i'm going to the dealer to buy stock ones for 60.00 for the whole set....and will post my results up soon!

here is a link to the thread..VERY interesting read!

http://my350z.com/forum/showthread.php?t=220609

Varis duct, K&N drop in , Motordyne 5/16 plenum spacer, Megan Headers, Megan Y pipe, Stock H.I.D. conversion, Topspeed A-arms w/adjustable camber, BC Racing Coilovers, Hotchkis sways (front stiffest rear middle). Stern Beast ST1 19 inch staggered wheels , Falken FK-452 Rubber. Whiteline urethane bushings
Next temporary mod is resonated test pipes with the stock y-pipe.
Next year Stillen supercharger stage 2 kit---order stage 3 pulley separately.
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-02-2008, 10:46 AM
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Shame on you, man. I just bumped a thread about end links last night.

You should forget about the stock ones and buy some aftermarket ones. I am looking into this.

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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-02-2008, 03:39 PM Thread Starter
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i would like to know how long they last... i mean....they are only 12 bucks a peice....i wonder if they have been improved on the 06-07 models?

Varis duct, K&N drop in , Motordyne 5/16 plenum spacer, Megan Headers, Megan Y pipe, Stock H.I.D. conversion, Topspeed A-arms w/adjustable camber, BC Racing Coilovers, Hotchkis sways (front stiffest rear middle). Stern Beast ST1 19 inch staggered wheels , Falken FK-452 Rubber. Whiteline urethane bushings
Next temporary mod is resonated test pipes with the stock y-pipe.
Next year Stillen supercharger stage 2 kit---order stage 3 pulley separately.
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-02-2008, 11:52 PM
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Have you seen the ones from Z1 or SPL? They look a lot stronger than OEM.

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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-03-2008, 02:49 AM Thread Starter
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i have seen them, but I'm going to give OEM one more shot.

i would like to see people posting allot of abuse on these parts and then giving there feedback...besides...what if this does not solve the problem? i swapped out the struts and shocks all by my self for the first time (never doing this before) and it did not solve my problem...I have already made a 260.00 mistake in purchasing the KYB's...i really think that this will solve my problem... just don't want to risk a 300+ dollar mistake? i could have purchased lowering springs, and a rear camber kit for the money i wasted so far..

hope you understand...if this fixes my problem and they fail again.....you KNOW i will shell out the money for a better part.

thanks though....your thread really pointed me in the right direction!

Varis duct, K&N drop in , Motordyne 5/16 plenum spacer, Megan Headers, Megan Y pipe, Stock H.I.D. conversion, Topspeed A-arms w/adjustable camber, BC Racing Coilovers, Hotchkis sways (front stiffest rear middle). Stern Beast ST1 19 inch staggered wheels , Falken FK-452 Rubber. Whiteline urethane bushings
Next temporary mod is resonated test pipes with the stock y-pipe.
Next year Stillen supercharger stage 2 kit---order stage 3 pulley separately.
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-11-2008, 03:33 AM Thread Starter
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Problem solved AGAIN!

Seems that when I swapped out my OEM sway bar bushings for urethane, everything was fine for about a week and then I started having problems again....

I used a regular 1/2 socket wrench to tighten the rear sway bar down after replacing the bushings, and on the front, since I was able to get the bolts off with an impact, I put them back in with an impact.

seems that it wasn’t tight enough.....I ended up using a 22" breaker bar to tighten the bolts which were ALL loose by 3/4 of a turn in the front and the rears were loose also.....you have to be careful with the rears because you don’t want to strip anything out....

Problem is solved and seems that the end links are good after all.

so original problem of worn stock rubber bushings was fixed by replacing them with urethane....the problem after that was that I failed to tighten them real good....I already have front adjustable camber A-Arms, so I pulled the trigger and just ordered rear camber arms and tanabe GF-210 springs. When I do the spring swap, I will toss the crappy KYB's and swap back in the stock struts since they are in near perfect condition.

CAN’T WAIT!

Varis duct, K&N drop in , Motordyne 5/16 plenum spacer, Megan Headers, Megan Y pipe, Stock H.I.D. conversion, Topspeed A-arms w/adjustable camber, BC Racing Coilovers, Hotchkis sways (front stiffest rear middle). Stern Beast ST1 19 inch staggered wheels , Falken FK-452 Rubber. Whiteline urethane bushings
Next temporary mod is resonated test pipes with the stock y-pipe.
Next year Stillen supercharger stage 2 kit---order stage 3 pulley separately.
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-09-2008, 03:25 AM Thread Starter
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Ok...here is my experience with my suspension (besides struts) as of 03-08-2008

I have been suffering from sway bar walk and for a long time I could not figure it out......I decided to go wider with my tires and felt that there was too much sidewall flex, so I had the BFG's taken off and put on OEM Bridgestone's and it made a difference.

Now that I had OEM tires back on I started to notice things....when on the freeway the car would sway back and forth and it seemed dangerous. cornering felt sloppy and it felt like the struts were blown (felt like a Honda civic without sway bars with old struts and 200,000 mile old bushings) and I actually HATED my Z....First I ordered KYB shocks and struts and it felt smoother, but soon I noticed that it not only felt smoother, but handled less (happened in a matter of a week).

I noticed my front sway bar bushings looked deformed so I ordered urethane front and rear sway bar bushings and installed them. they were fine for a week and the car handled allot better, but after a week it felt sloppy again....I thought since I could remove the sway bars with an impact gun that it would be tight enough putting it back on with an impact gun.....I ended up re tightening the sway bar brackets with a breaker bar and all was good again.

I was still getting poor handling so after hunting the forums for a month and a half I found that my next move was to replace the sway bar end links....when I finally got them I proceeded to swap out the SORRY KYB's and put back in the stock struts with 70k on them (they still have A LOT of compression, but rebound is worn out.....still worlds better than the KYB's.

I got the front struts back on and the end links, and got the rear shocks back on but it was WAYYYYY to late for rear end links.....the ride was improved but not by a whole lot....the front felt tighter but after a week the rear felt loose (sometimes you have to drive for a week to troubleshot and brainstorm). Today I put the rear end links in....The driver's side was easy, but I stripped a bolt where the end link bolts to the bracket, so I took my impact gun to the bracket and took it off.....the end link broke in HALF when it hit the ground and it barely fell out of my hand. anyway after an hour of trying I guess the WD-40 finally soaked in and I got it off and finished the passenger side....I also took off both front wheels and retightened the front end links again because I was tired and sick the day I did this......YES they needed retightening! Taking for a test drive everything is tight again and the rear of the car seems stiff and solid going over a speed bump.

WHEW! That's allotting of typing.

I know I need struts.....and I want a little more than just a replacement. Since the seller of the Tanabe GF-210 springs refunded me my money....I am going to repurchase them elsewhere, along with some Tokico blues and then install the rear camber kit sitting in my garage and then take it to the DEALER for an alignment! This may take a little bit because I am a single dad raising a daughter, and I need to keep money on hand in case of emergencies, and I don't believe in using a credit card for this....so stay tuned.....

The car is handling really nice right now and if I replace the struts and shocks right now with Tokico blues/ stock replacement equivalent, I don't believe I will notice a whole lot so I want the springs also to finally finish the suspension for now!

Varis duct, K&N drop in , Motordyne 5/16 plenum spacer, Megan Headers, Megan Y pipe, Stock H.I.D. conversion, Topspeed A-arms w/adjustable camber, BC Racing Coilovers, Hotchkis sways (front stiffest rear middle). Stern Beast ST1 19 inch staggered wheels , Falken FK-452 Rubber. Whiteline urethane bushings
Next temporary mod is resonated test pipes with the stock y-pipe.
Next year Stillen supercharger stage 2 kit---order stage 3 pulley separately.
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-24-2019, 07:40 PM
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To the giy having the sway feeling in the G ride. I too have a G35 2005 sedan. I feel the sway when I'm at a high rate of speed. So I called the only person I knew that could help, my dad. Now, mind you he has been building Indy cars, NASCARs and dragsters since before i was even a thought. So, after much discussion and me reading him you post, he advised to get a bigger sway bar. He advised that the sway bar is a 1/2 inch so he advised to go 1 1/4 inch bar and that should help with the sway. He advised its going to be a stiffer ride but will take car of that sway. He also said the the sedan was an old pples car like him. He's 75 with a b-day coming up in July. I am getting my oil changed this weekend with an ailment and im going to have my suspension looked over to see if anything is lose. I hope this help you in you quest. E
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