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post #1 of 50 (permalink) Old 03-22-2009, 06:30 AM Thread Starter
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As the title suggests. First I had to strip the mounting brackets from the donor chassis. Took my time and carefully unpicked them after about 2-3 hours including coffee.
The front end attachment was actually very simple indeed.
I stripped the Z front of Sway bar mounting brackets and original front end chassis mounted studs (that is scarey as there is definitely no turning back to the old front end after that), The new brackets were positioned in place with small screws (to allow for adjustment) , aligned and tacked in place. Finally spot welding to the chassis through the stock holes and then stiched for additional strength around the outside. time taken; about 4-5 hours, moving slowly, enjoying the carnage and sipping more coffee.
[attachment=26359:Z_work_020.jpg][attachment=26360:Z_work_033.jpg][attachment=26
362:Z_work_1_034.jpg][attachment=26361:Z_work_1_035.jpg]

After that task was complete bar the paintwork, I turned to the floorpan. Now despite myth that the TFR wont fit;
The floorpan pressing is identicle EXCEPT for halfway up the tunnel the Z "bulges" into the tunnel and the G35X continues the releif. The solution. Remove all carpets etc. (thats a given) Cut ABOUT a 200mm long x 150mm deep section from the floor JUST IN FRONT of the seat mount on the tunnel. the lower cut HAS to be just above the Floor plate joint that is visible internally (in cabin) This maintains the integity of the original floorpan and its bracing but releives sheet metal that has an awkward press up to the gearstick area.
The donor section is from the G35X and has about 3 layers of bracing and seat brackets over the wanted section. (I believe this is done to stiffen the G35X pan as its inherently weaker design due to length etc) see pics;[attachment=26363:Z_work_1_030.jpg][attachment=26364:Z_work_1_031.jpg][atta
chment=26365:Z_work_1_032.jpg][attachment=26366:Z_work_1_033.jpg]
The match is almost perfect and the plate size has been trimmed to create the smallest possible section.

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post #2 of 50 (permalink) Old 03-22-2009, 06:51 AM Thread Starter
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A dummy fit of the auto transmission resulted in a perfect fit with oodles of room for movement. The z's chassis remains intact with original strength and transfer case positioning. Of course it has to be further welded and painted but the basic job is done. Believe me its quite easy but "ya gotta be brave" once you cut the mounts off and hack the floor, there is no turning back. A panel shop would do it with one arm behind their back and in one afternoon. The rear guards were infinitely more difficult.
A dummy fit of the Getrag box looks like a factory fit, but I cannot show it further as the machinist has taken two weeks holiday and .........read it and weep. His staff havn't been instructed to carry on so it just sits there, like so many of these little projects for the life of this build (2 years!) Yes I'm angry/frustrated but thats hardly the way to enjoy the build, so I chill.
The resultant setup will look factory z from inside the cabin including the original Z stick mechanism, boot etc. Underneath will utilise the original G35X front driveshaft but the rear will change with the slip joint on the diff, not the box. The new driveshaft will be lighter than the Z's pretend unit. the input shaft of the getrag is XXmm longer and stronger as this is their weak point. The clutch bearing mechanism is poetry but I'll supply a pic later when I put it on the bench and snap it. Its use will save weight, reduce peddle pressure and moving parts, and is a competition unit so it should handle the riggors of going to the local coffee shop with ease.
The front suspension is being replaced with the TEIN G35X setup and the rest of it is bolt in boring as everything simply fits like a glove. the lower control arm of the X is cast steel and heavy. The corresponding Z arm is alloy. I wonder if the alloy can handle the front torque or why exactly NISSAN used a cast steel instead of an alloy one. In the persuit of weight reduction i am tempted to use the alloy and see what happens.
The windscreen washer bottle moves to the spare tyre well along with the Attesa control pump and resorvoir and the battery. The spare tyre won't fit over the rear brakes let alone the fronts, so its elimination will assist in the next journey of weight reduction.

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post #3 of 50 (permalink) Old 03-22-2009, 08:48 AM
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Is it possible to use a manual box with this conversion ore are you stuck using the auto box?

I have seen a few builds doing this swap and it really sounds pretty "easy". Of course easy is relative to who is doing the work.

Matt

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post #4 of 50 (permalink) Old 03-22-2009, 11:47 AM
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Simple?? Dude that looks like a HUGE pain in the ass. It'll totally be worth it tho, especially if you're running a high HP motor. Traction FTW!
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post #5 of 50 (permalink) Old 03-22-2009, 09:26 PM Thread Starter
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QUOTE ([Cerberus] @ Mar 22 2009, 06:48 AM)
Quote:
Is it possible to use a manual box with this conversion ore are you stuck using the auto box?

I have seen a few builds doing this swap and it really sounds pretty "easy". Of course easy is relative to who is doing the work.
I am using the BNR34 Getrag 6 speed box. Its been race tested, there are aftermarket gearsets and clutchpacks etc so there is no reinventing the wheel. Same as the thrust bearing.......its tried and true so no problem with spares and setup etc. the gear ratios will be a mix of the V160 and the V161 version of the box to get the ratios close to what I'm chasing and allow cruise control and all electronics to talk to each other. I have even decided to go the hydraulic clutchpack of the R34 vs the electromagnetic clutchpack of the G35 because of the unknowns involved and shaft sizes.
When I say easy..........I have seen aftermarket engine swaps, and other fancy bells and whistles conversions that truely are a lot of work, with the chassis as well as the mechanicals. This one is a piece of cake compared. yes there is work, but 4 brackets, and a section of floorpan isn't exactly a Boyd Coddington hot rod build.
My workshop is very well equiped and everything is an arms reach away so it is relatively easy for me. If the best you have done is carbon covers, spoilers and floor mats.............you would be in trouble. A panel shop would have it out in under 2 days or a week including the rear guards and paint. (given that we now know what exactly to do)
There is a list of parts needed to carry out the conversion and I can see a saving of $20,000 (AUD) if you simply went to performance Nissan and bought the bits. Problem is in Australia.........which bits and where to speak to any coherent spare parts person who can actually comprehend what your chasing without pestering you with the eternal question ..........WHY?
You can speak to NISSAN Australia and they are barely aware that an awd G35X exists because it hasn't hit our shores. I have tried to contact the NY mob who did the auto conversion and can't raise a pulse so I decided to get a kit together to do the same thing. I rekon this should be very similar to the APS TT system, where you just get a pack and have it done at a body shop. Imagine how big a pain in the arse that would be Jetpilot718, about as simple as an APS TT setup!
Yes I realise I'm 4 years late but the cars are getting cheaper and on a colision course with modding by a different generation and this is a hobby to kill the boredom. Imagine.....you have a getrag box and you simply have to buy the kit to match it with the VQ series engine!! Well, thats what I want to provide.

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post #6 of 50 (permalink) Old 03-22-2009, 11:47 PM
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Kudos bud!! For thinking outside the square and following through with it!

It will be something to show off to the nissan workshops so they know how it should have left the factory!?! :p

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post #7 of 50 (permalink) Old 03-23-2009, 03:05 AM Thread Starter
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QUOTE (gadget1382 @ Mar 22 2009, 08:47 PM)
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Kudos bud!! For thinking outside the square and following through with it!

It will be something to show off to the nissan workshops so they know how it should have left the factory!?! :p
Zackly! My fear is they will say "Oh you need this little item or this little bracket" that has taken me ages to get a machinist to co-operate to have it made up. I guess when we have it digitised, we can spit &#39;em out.

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post #8 of 50 (permalink) Old 03-23-2009, 06:55 AM
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Its looking good mate. Deff looking good.
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post #9 of 50 (permalink) Old 03-23-2009, 10:46 AM
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Amazing work, I wish we saw more of this kinda stuff on here. So this is a setup based of the G35X and the R34? Is the important stuff from the GTR with brackets from the G35X?

~Pat

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post #10 of 50 (permalink) Old 03-23-2009, 06:27 PM Thread Starter
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QUOTE (NoZYet @ Mar 23 2009, 08:46 AM)
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Amazing work, I wish we saw more of this kinda stuff on here. So this is a setup based of the G35X and the R34? Is the important stuff from the GTR with brackets from the G35X?

~Pat
thats correct Pat. The R34 stuff is already supported by gear manufacturers producing whatever ratio you want with syncros or dog engagements and sequentials, the transfer clutches are able to be upgraded with a 9 plate clutch setup, the ruzic electronic device (another Aussie) allows fine adjustment of front/rear bias...........the list goes on. The R34 has a strong Japanese racing support which means an almost unlimited depth of goodies for its bits. Getrag produced 2 versions of the 6 speed used in the BNR34, a V161 and a V160. I&#39;m developing a bellhousing clutch bearing setup for this box. (see attached pic)
The different ratios combined with the diff choices give a very wide and reliable product range. Quaife now produce a centre for the BNR34 front diff giving a quiet clutchless awd lsd. I have yet to check the dimentions for the 34 spool to see if it can be used for the X
The doner X has the front end and engine mounts, diffs F&R to match ratios and a wide range of ratio choices now from 3.9, to 3.3 with the X being a 3.6XX. There&#39;s a heads up for you Z guys that want to drop your F/D to 3.6 which would be a mild drop not a 3.9 screamer. It would be a good track ratio I rekon and a budget purchase as the x isn&#39;t that popular (yet!) I can see the wrecking price of the X rising steadily as the third generation modding community get into it.
Its worth noting; If you use the 3.3 auto ratio, your cruise control won&#39;t operate properly. It cant handle a rev drop for top gear vs speed data coming in and it drops out. Uprev have tried to recalculate the ecu but can&#39;t crack it apparently. If you go down in ratio below the stock 3.5 everything works ok.
The other thing the donar x has to offer is the floorpan pressing. Its difficult to get as a spare part and a donor car is shagged if you cut that section out of the floor, making it expensive. I used a 9" angle grinder with a cutoff blade and just sliced through everything. there are 3 layers of bracing and brackets which have to be carefully unpicked. I&#39;m just looking at taking a cast from the floor and I have a mate with a foundry who can cast me a block of iron that will allow me to do a ferfect match for the z floorpan. Possibly buils a crude press that will be able to knock them out. the actual pigiron would cost me nothing so it could be a good plaything to fiddle with. The original pan is quite thin and extremely difficult to weld so something a little more robust would allow a series of holes to be drilled in it to allow "stiching" as per factory brackets.[attachment=26373:Thrust_Bearing_001.jpg]

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